Weingut Franz Keller – 2022 Jechtinger Enselberg 1er Lage

Weingut Franz Keller – 2022 Jechtinger Enselberg 1er Lage.

A Pinot Noir of precision and poise, the 2022 Jechtinger Enselberg from Weingut Franz Keller captures the essence of Baden’s volcanic terroir through finesse, aromatic clarity, and finely tuned structure. This is a wine that combines Burgundian elegance with the mineral vitality of the Kaiserstuhl.

About the Winery

Weingut Franz Keller, based in the Kaiserstuhl region of Baden, is among Germany’s leading producers of terroir-focused Pinot Noir. The estate’s philosophy—rooted in Burgundian tradition yet unmistakably German—centers around balance, restraint, and expression of place. Under the direction of Fritz Keller, the winery has refined its style to emphasize purity and precision, consistently producing wines that reflect the subtleties of their volcanic origins.

A proud member of the VDP (Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter), Franz Keller classifies its vineyards according to the Burgundian hierarchy, with Erste Lage (Premier Cru) and Grosse Lage (Grand Cru) sites representing the pinnacle of quality. Sustainable vineyard management and meticulous cellar work define their approach, ensuring each cuvée mirrors the nuances of its terroir.

About the Vineyard

The Jechtinger Enselberg vineyard sits high on the slopes overlooking the Rhine plains. Its west-facing orientation captures the late-afternoon sun while remaining ventilated by steady westerly winds, which keep the grapes healthy and extend the ripening period. The soils are a mix of stony volcanic rock and loess, imparting both structure and aromatic lift.

Planted in 1999 and 2003 with 100% Burgundian Pinot Noir clones, Enselberg produces wines noted for their precision and elegance rather than opulence. The vineyard’s cool exposure and mineral foundation favor subtlety and linearity—attributes that define Keller’s most refined expressions.

About the Wine

The 2022 Jechtinger Enselberg matured for 18 months in barrique, 40% of which were new oak. This patient aging brings textural polish and gentle spice, while allowing the site’s natural character to shine through.

In the glass, the wine shows a brilliant ruby-red hue. The nose is cool and polished, unfolding slowly with aromas of red and black berries, cherries, and wild herbs, layered with subtle hints of smoke, pepper, and tobacco leaf. As the wine opens, delicate undertones of cocoa, nutmeg, and graphite add complexity without weight.

The palate is finely etched and remarkably precise—juicy, vibrant fruit framed by youthful yet elegant tannins. There’s a lively acid tension that keeps the wine energetic and focused. Hints of dark chocolate, roasted nuts, and coffee bean weave subtly through the mid-palate, complemented by a touch of spice and savory depth. Beneath the fruit, mineral and herbal tones provide a grounding freshness that carries into a long, firm, and spicy finish.

Still youthful, the 2022 Enselberg promises further development with time in bottle, as its fruit, structure, and oak integration continue to harmonize. It’s a wine that rewards patience and reflects the precision and composure that define Franz Keller’s best work.

Conclusion

The 2022 Jechtinger Enselberg is a beautifully sculpted wine that speaks of place and craftsmanship. With its interplay of fruit purity, fine-grained tannins, and volcanic minerality, it demonstrates how Baden’s best vineyards can rival Burgundy in elegance and depth.

We award this wine a 92-point DWA score—a poised and terroir-driven Pinot Noir that showcases the subtle brilliance of Weingut Franz Keller.

This review was written by our own Niels Aarts. Franz Keller wines are available through selected fine wine retailers across Europe.

Tasting date:   October 2025

Website:         Weingut Franz Keller