2017 Flaccianello della Pieve – Fontodi
Red
Italy
Chianti, Chianti Classico
Sangiovese
Spiegelau Definition Universal
135 EURO
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Few second wines carry the same pedigree as La Chapelle de La Mission Haut-Brion. Produced by one of Bordeaux’s most revered estates, it has evolved far beyond its original role as an introduction to Château La Mission Haut-Brion. Today, it stands among the leading second wines of the Left Bank, combining the unmistakable character of the estate with a style that becomes approachable earlier than the grand vin, while remaining unmistakably serious.
The 2014 vintage occupies an interesting place in modern Bordeaux history. Overshadowed by the highly acclaimed vintages that followed, it has quietly matured into one of the strongest value propositions for lovers of classical Bordeaux. A warm, dry September rescued a challenging growing season, allowing the grapes to achieve excellent ripeness while retaining freshness and aromatic precision.
More than a decade after harvest, La Chapelle 2014 demonstrates exactly why Bordeaux’s finest second wines deserve to be judged on their own merits rather than simply as more affordable alternatives to their flagship counterparts.
The story of Château La Mission Haut-Brion stretches back to the seventeenth century, when the estate was established by the Lazarist priests whose chapel still lends its name to the second wine today. Situated immediately beside Château Haut-Brion, La Mission has developed its own distinct identity, producing wines renowned for their combination of power, smoky minerality and remarkable longevity.
Since becoming part of Domaine Clarence Dillon in 1983, significant investment has elevated every aspect of production, from vineyard management to cellar practices. While the grand vin continues to rank among Bordeaux’s elite, La Chapelle has grown into an increasingly respected label in its own right, reflecting the same philosophy of precision and uncompromising quality that defines the estate.
The vineyards lie on the celebrated Günzian gravel terraces of Pessac-Léognan, where deep gravel soils over clay provide exceptional drainage while retaining sufficient moisture during warmer periods. This distinctive terroir has long been responsible for the hallmark character of La Mission Haut-Brion: wines of concentration, freshness and unmistakable graphite-like minerality.
Each vineyard parcel is cultivated individually, allowing fruit to be harvested at optimal ripeness. The estate’s proximity to the city of Bordeaux creates a slightly warmer microclimate than many Médoc appellations, contributing to consistently reliable ripening while preserving the freshness that defines the finest Graves wines.
La Chapelle de La Mission Haut-Brion is not conceived as a lesser version of the grand vin but as a wine with a clearly defined purpose within the estate’s portfolio. Domaine Clarence Dillon describes it as the “gateway” to Château La Mission Haut-Brion—a wine produced in limited quantities that introduces drinkers to the estate’s distinctive style while remaining faithful to its renowned terroir.
The fruit originates exclusively from the estate’s own vineyards. Each parcel is vinified separately before the final blending decisions are made, allowing the winemaking team to determine the most suitable expression for every lot. While the château does not publicly disclose the precise selection criteria, the objective is evident: to preserve the identity of La Mission Haut-Brion while creating a wine that offers greater accessibility in its youth without compromising refinement or authenticity.
This philosophy extends into the cellar. La Chapelle receives the same meticulous attention throughout vinification and maturation as the grand vin, including élevage in French oak. For the 2014 vintage, the wine matured in 36% new French oak barrels, demonstrating that it is crafted with the same seriousness as the estate’s flagship wine rather than being treated as a secondary product.
The result is a wine that captures the smoky elegance, refined structure and mineral signature of La Mission Haut-Brion in a style that reaches its optimal drinking window considerably earlier, making it one of Bordeaux’s finest examples of what a modern second wine can achieve.
The 2014 La Chapelle de La Mission Haut-Brion is a blend of 45% Merlot, 31% Cabernet Franc and 24% Cabernet Sauvignon, a composition that reflects the estate’s preference for elegance and aromatic complexity over sheer power in this vintage. Merlot contributes generosity and supple texture, Cabernet Franc brings freshness and lifted floral and graphite notes, while Cabernet Sauvignon provides structure, depth and the capacity to age gracefully.
The vintage immediately displays the restraint and elegance that define classical Pessac-Léognan.
The nose opens with aromas of ripe black cherry, cassis and plum, followed by cedar, graphite and fine cigar tobacco. As the wine evolves in the glass, layers of cocoa, dried herbs, forest floor and subtle smoke emerge, reflecting the unmistakable character of the Graves terroir. There is an attractive freshness throughout that keeps the aromatics vibrant rather than opulent.
The palate is beautifully composed. Medium to full-bodied, it combines mature dark fruit with finely integrated oak, silky tannins and vibrant acidity. Notes of blackcurrant, cherry, cedar, leather and graphite unfold gradually, supported by a mineral backbone that gives the wine both tension and precision.
What impresses most is the balance. Nothing feels forced or exaggerated. The oak has fully integrated after ten years in bottle, allowing the fruit and terroir to take center stage. The tannins have softened without losing definition, creating a wine that is elegant, composed and distinctly classical in style.
The finish is persistent and refined, leaving lingering impressions of cedar, graphite, cocoa and savoury dark fruit.
Conclusion
La Chapelle de La Mission Haut-Brion 2014 perfectly demonstrates how far Bordeaux’s finest second wines have evolved. Rather than existing solely as an accessible alternative to iconic grand vin, it possesses its own identity, one built on thoughtful selection, meticulous winemaking and an unwavering commitment to expressing the character of the estate.
Now entering a superb stage of maturity, it delivers many of the quality’s enthusiasts seek in aged Pessac-Léognan: complexity, freshness, refined tannins and the distinctive smoky minerality that has made La Mission Haut-Brion one of Bordeaux’s most admired names.
It may not possess the immense depth or longevity of the grand vin, but it offers remarkable authenticity and drinking pleasure at a fraction of the price. For those wishing to understand the style of La Mission Haut-Brion without waiting decades for full maturity, few wines provide a more compelling introduction.
Our verdict: 92/100 DWA points.
This review forms part of Dutch Wine Apprentice’s new editorial series “Second Wines of Bordeaux”, created in partnership with Cellar Worthy Wines.
Throughout this series, we explore how Bordeaux’s leading châteaux have transformed their second labels from wines once viewed as simple declassifications into carefully crafted cuvées with distinct identities, individual philosophies and growing international recognition.
The upcoming reviews in the series include:
The series will conclude with a comprehensive editorial examining the evolution of Bordeaux’s second wines, their changing role within the region’s great estates, and why this once-overlooked category has become one of the most compelling segments of fine wine today.
This review was written by Niels Aarts for Dutch Wine Apprentice. If Bordeaux is your passion and you’re considering building a private collection, our partner Cellar Worthy Wines offers expert guidance in sourcing and selecting some of the region’s finest wines.
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