Dominio de Es – 2021 Viñas de Soria

Dominio de Es – 2021 Viñas de Soria.

The 2021 Viñas de Soria from Dominio de Es is a compelling expression of old-vine Ribera del Duero—one that captures both the rugged authenticity of the region and the refined vision of Bertrand Sourdais. While Dominio de Es has become synonymous with some of the most sought-after wines in Ribera, Viñas de Soria offers a more accessible yet no less serious interpretation of Sourdais’ philosophy: a profound respect for terroir, old vines, and the pursuit of elegance over sheer power.

The wine immediately conveys a sense of place. Rather than relying on extraction or oak-driven opulence, it focuses on purity, freshness, and detail. It is a Ribera del Duero that looks beyond modern stereotypes, returning to a more traditional and nuanced expression of the region’s historic vineyards.

About the Winery

Dominio de Es is the personal project of Bertrand Sourdais, a French winemaker whose name has become closely associated with some of the most exciting developments in contemporary Ribera del Duero. His connection with the region dates back more than two decades, when he first arrived in Soria to work alongside the Escudero family, owners of the historic Bodegas y Viñedos Gormaz.

At the time, Soria remained one of the least explored parts of Ribera del Duero, despite possessing some of the region’s oldest and highest-altitude vineyards. Working closely with the Escudero family gave Sourdais a unique opportunity to study these ancient vineyards and understand the extraordinary potential of the area’s terroirs. The experience would prove transformative, shaping much of the philosophy that later defined both Antídoto and Dominio de Es.

Through his collaboration with the Escuderos, Sourdais became deeply involved in the preservation of old-vine Tinto Fino vineyards around Atauta and the wider Soria province. Many of these vineyards had survived decades of rural depopulation and remained planted as traditional field blends, offering a direct link to Ribera del Duero’s viticultural heritage.

Dominio de Es ultimately emerged as the most personal expression of this journey. While Antídoto focuses on capturing the broader character of Soria, Dominio de Es represents Sourdais’ pursuit of the region’s finest individual vineyard sites. The project reflects a Burgundian understanding of terroir, where individual parcels are valued for their unique identity and where winemaking is guided by restraint rather than intervention.

This philosophy closely mirrors the work Sourdais undertakes at Domaine de Pallus in Chinon (read a review of Bertrand’s 2017 La Rougerie here). Whether working with Cabernet Franc in the Loire or Tinto Fino in Ribera del Duero, his objective remains consistent: to reveal the character of exceptional vineyards through meticulous farming, careful élevage, and an unwavering commitment to site expression.

About the Vineyard

Viñas de Soria is sourced from a remarkable collection of 35 small vineyard parcels situated around the village of Atauta in the easternmost reaches of Ribera del Duero. Many of these sites are planted with ungrafted vines, a rarity in Europe and a testament to the region’s unique viticultural heritage.

The vineyards sit at significant altitude and are planted primarily to Tinto Fino, complemented by small amounts of Albillo and other traditional varieties that have historically formed part of the area’s mixed plantings. These old vines are rooted in a diverse patchwork of limestone, clay, sand, and gravel soils, creating a wine that combines concentration with remarkable freshness.

For Bertrand Sourdais, these vineyards represent the essence of Soria. Rather than focusing on a single parcel, Viñas de Soria is intended as a village expression—a wine that captures the collective character of Atauta and its historic vineyard landscape. Organic and biodynamic farming practices further reinforce this connection between vineyard and wine, preserving both the health of the soils and the individuality of the site.

About the Wine

The 2021 Viñas de Soria presents itself with a deep ruby colour and youthful intensity. The nose is immediately expressive, revealing layers of black cherry, wild blackberry, dark plum, and crushed raspberry, intertwined with floral notes, dried herbs, and a subtle mineral undertone.

Despite the warmth of the vintage, freshness remains at the forefront. The fruit profile is generous and vibrant, yet never excessive, framed by a finely judged use of oak that contributes texture and spice rather than overt sweetness.

On the palate, the wine is concentrated and energetic. Partial whole-cluster fermentation adds aromatic lift and structural complexity, while the old-vine fruit provides depth and persistence. The tannins are abundant and finely textured, still carrying a youthful firmness that suggests considerable ageing potential.

As the wine opens, notes of graphite, dried flowers, Mediterranean herbs, and subtle earthy nuances emerge, adding layers of complexity. There is a certain creaminess to the texture in its youth, yet this is balanced by vibrant acidity and a mineral backbone that keeps the wine focused and precise.

The finish is long, savoury, and persistent, marked by tension rather than weight. While already highly appealing, the wine still feels youthful and promises further integration and complexity with additional time in bottle.

Conclusion

The 2021 Viñas de Soria is an excellent example of the direction in which Bertrand Sourdais has helped steer modern Ribera del Duero: away from excess and toward greater precision, freshness, and site expression.

In many ways, Viñas de Soria represents the culmination of a journey that began with Bertrand Sourdais’ arrival in Soria alongside the Escudero family. More than twenty years later, the wine captures both his deep understanding of the region’s historic vineyards and his continued belief that Soria holds some of Ribera del Duero’s most compelling terroirs.

While already highly enjoyable, the wine possesses sufficient structure and complexity to reward several years of cellaring. Its combination of old-vine concentration, vibrant acidity, and mineral tension suggests a promising evolution over the coming decade.

We award this wine a 93-point DWA score—a refined and terroir-driven Ribera del Duero that successfully balances concentration, freshness, and elegance while showcasing the unique character of Soria’s historic vineyards.

This review is written by our own Niels Aarts. Dominio de Es and their wines are available through our partner Total Grand Cru, and can be bought in their online shop.

Taste Date:     May 2026

Website:         Dominio de Es