Wine of Moldova: Unexpectedly Great.

Chapter 1: Discovering Moldovan Wine in Amsterdam

The story of our deep dive into Moldovan wine began in late November 2024. Dutch Wine Apprentice received an invitation to an exclusive press lunch arranged by Wine of Moldova at Restaurant De Willem in Amsterdam. This gastronomic experience was preceded by an insightful masterclass, “10 Things You Need to Know About Moldovan Wines,” led by Master of Wine Cees van Casteren.

A Rich Winemaking Heritage

Moldova’s winemaking roots trace back to the 8th century BC, an extensive history that remains relatively underappreciated. Today, Moldova stands as the 6th largest wine producer in Europe, with a vast vineyard area spanning 112,000 hectares. The country boasts three Protected Geographical Indications (PGI):

1. IGP Codru – Home to Riesling, Pinot Noir, and Rara Neagra.

2. IGP Ștefan Vodă – Located in the southeast with a climate similar to Bordeaux.

3. IGP Valul lui Traian – Benefiting from the cooling influences of the Black Sea.

Despite its small size, Moldova holds the second-largest global planting of Riesling and is third in Pinot Noir plantings. This is attributed to historical migration waves; post-WWII, the Moldovan government attracted emigrants by offering land, which led to Germans bringing Riesling and the French introducing Pinot Noir. The wine industry consists of both large cooperatives and small-scale ‘garagiste’ winemakers. However, Moldova’s modern wine landscape was significantly reshaped by the Russian embargoes of 2006 and 2013, forcing producers to shift their focus toward European markets. By 2022, 54% of Moldovan bottled wines were exported to Europe.

A Taste of Moldovan Excellence

Following the masterclass, attendees enjoyed a curated lunch featuring Moldovan wines. Notable tastings included:

• ‘Politika Coupage Liberal’ (90% Chardonnay, 10% Riesling, aged three months in French oak): A vibrant nose of citrus, butterscotch, and marzipan, balanced with moderate acidity and a lingering oily texture. DWA Rating: 91 points.
• Gitana Winery ‘Lupi’ 2018 (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Saperavi blend):  A powerful bouquet of dark chocolate, black fruit, and vanilla, supported by firm acidity and bold tannins. DWA Rating: 94 points.

This introductory encounter with Moldovan wines left us eager to explore the region firsthand. That opportunity came just days later, when we embarked on a journey to Moldova to meet the people behind these wines.

Chapter 2: Experiencing Moldovan Wine at its Source

The story continued on December 4th, when Pitch PR led a delegation of wine journalists, importers, and retailers on a four-day exploration of Moldova’s wine scene.

Day 1: First Encounters in Chișinău

The trip began with a warm welcome dinner at Divus, one of Chișinău’s top restaurants, featuring wines crafted from Moldova’s indigenous grape varieties, including Viorica, Fetească Regală, and Floricica (white) alongside Fetească Neagră (red). This introduction set the stage for a deeper understanding of Moldova’s wine identity.

Day 2: A Look at Moldova’s Wine Industry

The second day of activities began on December 5th with a welcome visit to the Wine of Moldova office. Stefan Lamandi, Director of the National Office for Vine and Wine, provided an in-depth presentation on Moldova’s wine industry, both domestically and in export markets.

Key Industry Insights

Moldova has 67,400 hectares dedicated to wine production, nearly evenly split between red and white grape varieties. The country has significant plantings of international varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris (whites) and Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Malbec (reds). Indigenous varieties, making up under 20% of plantings, include Feteasca Albă, Feteasca Regală (whites), Feteasca Neagră, and Rara Neagră (reds). To combat climate change and disease, the Moldova Institute of Vine and Wine has developed three new grape varieties: Viorica, Legenda, and Codrinschi.

Prior to the Russian embargos of 2006 and 2013, 70% of Moldovan wine exports went to Russia, accounting for 6% of Moldova’s GDP. In response, Moldova founded the National Office for Vine and Wine in 2013 to support trade, viticulture, and production. Today, 85% of production is exported, with Romania, Poland, the Netherlands, and the USA emerging as key markets. Export distribution includes 55% bulk wine and 30% bottled wine.

The Moldovan wine sector has established three PGIs (Protected Geographical Indications): Codru, Ștefan Vodă, and Valul lui Traian. Moldova’s terrain lacks mountains, but vineyards thrive on rolling slopes near rivers and tributaries. The soil is predominantly chernozem (black, nutrient-rich topsoil), with underlying limestone, clay, and sand.

Quality Over Quantity

Historically, under Soviet rule, Moldova prioritized mass wine production. However, the modern industry has shifted towards quality-driven viticulture. Moldova is the most awarded country in Eastern Europe, securing 58% of gold medals in international competitions over the last six years. PGI wine production has grown by 30%, and bottled wine exports have risen by 24%. This transformation is supported by investments in new technology, vine replanting, a shift toward dry wines, and enhanced marketing strategies.

Exploring Moldova’s Iconic Wineries

Milestii Mici: The Underground Wine City

The first winery visit of the day took us to Milestii Mici, home to the world’s largest underground wine cellar, stretching 200 km. Only 55 km are actively used, complete with traffic lights and road signs for navigation. The winery, founded in 1969, is state-owned, but the cellars have existed for over 200 years, originally used for limestone extraction. The stone was vital in rebuilding Chișinău after World War II, earning the city its nickname, the White City.

Today, Milestii Mici holds 1.8 million bottles, 1,200 barrels, and 400 steel tanks used for sparkling wine production. The oldest bottle in their collection dates back to 1973 and is valued at €2,000. However, their oldest visible vintage is 1987, due to Moldova’s period of alcohol prohibition (Suxoy Zakon) from 1985 to 1989. To preserve rare vintages, the winery secretly stored 50,000 bottles behind a hidden door. After the prohibition lifted, 40,000 bottles were quickly sold, leaving only 10,000 bottles as historical relics.

A fascinating feature of Milestii Mici’s underground cellars is their earthquake resistance. Due to their depth (80 meters underground) and limestone surroundings, they absorb seismic vibrations. Even a 5.3-magnitude earthquake went unnoticed in the cellars.

Milestii Mici’s production focuses 70% on sparkling wine, using the Charmat method. After the extensive tour, we dined 57 meters underground, behind yet another secret door, where we enjoyed a traditional Moldovan meal paired with their wines.

Tasting Highlight:

Private Collection 1986 – A unique assemblage of white and red Traminer grapes, fortified with a locally infused spirit.

Enticing aromas of medicinal herbs, rosemary, saffron, chamomile, and turmeric unfold, followed by delicate notes of dried roses and apricots. On the palate, a succulent texture is balanced by moderate acidity, leading to a long, concentrated finish that lingers gracefully.

DWA Rating: 90 points.

Asconi Winery: Tradition Meets Modernity

The next stop was Asconi Winery, a privately owned estate with four winemakers on board. With an impressive annual production of 5 million bottles, the winery owns 550 hectares of vineyards. Twelve different grape varieties are cultivated, with 40% red and 60% white. Asconi focuses on both still dry wines and sparkling wine production, exporting 80% of its output, split evenly between bulk and bottled wines.

Conveniently located just 30 km from Chișinău, Asconi is a popular local attraction, offering oenotourism facilities, guest houses, family-friendly outdoor and indoor areas, and even a swimming pool. The winery provides an all-inclusive experience for visitors.

Tasted wines included: Sauvignon Blanc, Viorica, Pinot Noir, Feteasca Neagră, Orange Wine, and ice wines made from Riesling and Cabernet Sauvignon. The white wines were fruit-forward and fresh, while the reds showcased balanced oak integration and consumer-friendly appeal.

Mimi Winery: A Historic and Prestigious Estate

The last visit of the day was to Mimi Winery, one of Moldova’s premier wine producers and a top tourist destination. Listed among the top 15 most beautiful wineries in the world, Mimi Castle was founded in 1893 by a Greek winemaker. Today, the estate is privately owned by a local family and holds 170 hectares of vineyards, sourcing an additional 200 hectares from contracted growers.

Mimi Winery is Moldova’s largest wine exporter to France, shipping 25% of its total production abroad. The modern wine cellar, housing 1,000 pristine French oak barrels, left a lasting impression. The tour concluded with a delightful dinner where guests sampled a selection of wines, each bearing a symbolic label representing Moldovan culture.

Tasting Highlights:

• White Blend (Feteasca Albă, Feteasca Regală, Viorica) – Symbolized by a spiral, representing the movement of the sun.
• Rosé (Rara Neagră) – Featuring a hairbrush symbol, signifying the tradition of brushing away evil spirits.
• Governor’s Wine (Feteasca Neagră) – Aged 10 months in new French oak, with a limited yield of 20 hl/ha, producing a wine of exceptional density, concentration, and length.

With the conclusion of an insightful and engaging day, we left Mimi Winery with a deeper appreciation of Moldova’s dedication to quality, tradition and innovation.

Day 3: Innovation and Tradition

Casa Vinicola Luca

Our third day transported us to the family-owned winery Casa Vinicola Luca, helmed by fourth-generation winemaker Luca, who was named Winemaker of the Year 2024. The moment you meet Luca, any doubts about this title vanish—his boundless energy, driven by passion, fueled by ambition, and guided by undeniable charisma, set him apart.

One of the first things that catches your eye about Luca’s wines is the labels—each bottle is adorned with a face. Initially, Luca sourced images randomly from the internet, but over time, he began selecting faces that best represented the personality of each wine. The names of his wines are equally intriguing, sparking curiosity. Take, for example, Femme Fatale or Bad Boys.

Luca shared the story behind Bad Boys, a bold blend of Rara Neagră, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Saperavi. Traditionally, Saperavi was never blended, as it is considered powerful enough on its own. However, Luca was the first to incorporate it into a blend, hence the rebellious name. The result? A wine that is bold and mighty.

What stood out across Luca’s entire portfolio was a clear signature—a silver thread of precision. Each wine displayed pure fruit definition, laser-like focus, and remarkable intensity.

Bad Boys:

Bold and opulent, the nose is dominated by black fruits, complemented by hints of fresh violets, licorice, prune, and a touch of toast. The palate is concentrated, with high, dusted tannins and searing acidity that provide structure and intensity. The finish is long and persistent, leaving a lasting impression of depth and power.

DWA Score: 95 points.

Cricova Winery: A Journey into Moldova’s Underground Wine City

Our next stop took us on an unforgettable tour of Cricova Winery, a true icon of Moldovan winemaking and a leading producer of Traditional Method sparkling wines. Founded in 1952, Cricova is now state-owned and, much like Milesti Mici, is often referred to as an underground city.

The Underground Labyrinth

Cricova’s cellars stretch an astonishing 120 km, with 80 km actively used for winemaking, while the remaining 40 km serve as active limestone mines. The sheer scale of this underground world is remarkable. Visitors navigate through its winding tunnels by train, car, or bus, all while experiencing a constant temperature of 12–14°C and 85–90% humidity—ideal conditions for aging wine.

The winery boasts:

• Annual production: ~11 million bottles
• Sparkling wine production: 50% (Traditional & Charmat methods)
• Vineyard holdings: 1,000 hectares
• Grape varieties cultivated: Over 15
• Barrels in active use: More than 800
• A Glimpse into Sparkling Wine Production

Our first stop was 80 meters underground, where we witnessed Cricova’s sparkling wine production. The sight of endless pupitres filled with bottles was simply mesmerizing. Currently, Cricova holds:

• 500,000 bottles in remuage
• 1.5 million bottles aging on the lees (for a minimum of 9 months up to 5 years)

Perhaps the most astonishing revelation? Every bottle is turned by hand—no gyropalettes! This delicate and highly skilled job is entrusted to just six women, each inheriting the craft from previous generations. With only six-hour workdays, a single worker turns 6,000 bottles per hour, completing the entire process in 8–10 days. Witnessing this meticulous craftsmanship left us in absolute awe.

A Cinematic & Culinary Experience Underground

Following the production tour, we boarded a bus through the underground city, arriving at a theater 60 meters below ground. Here, we watched a short film on Cricova’s history and evolution. The experience continued in a beautifully set underground dining hall, where we enjoyed an extensive local cuisine lunch paired with nine different Cricova wines—a true immersion into Moldova’s winemaking heritage.

Cricova’s Oenothèque: A Cellar of Liquid Treasures

On our way, we passed through Cricova’s oenothèque, which houses some of the world’s rarest and most valuable wines. Among the legendary collections stored in these tunnels is Hermann Göring’s private wine collection, comprising 129 bottles cloaked in history and valuable dust, including:

• Romanée-Conti Richebourg 1935
• Château Latour 1938
• Easter Jerusalem 1902

Each bottle tells a story—a glimpse into history, a treasure waiting to be uncorked…

A Grand Finale: Vernisage Wine Exhibition

The trip concluded with Moldova’s Vernisage Wine Exhibition, where 80 out of 249 producers showcased their wines. Highlights included:

• Well-established wineries like Purcari, Mimi, and Cricova delivering high-quality, conventional wines.
• Small-scale growers such as Somma and Equinox pushing boundaries with low-intervention winemaking.
• A growing shift toward export-oriented styles while maintaining Moldovan character.

As the director of the National Office for Vine and Wine summed up, “Our wines are winning all over the world.” With its blend of history, innovation, and passion, Moldova is fast becoming a force to be reckoned with in the global wine industry.

This article is written by our own Jelena van Eerdenburg. We would like to thank Wine of Moldova, Pitch PR and all participating wineries for the amazing experience.