Seriously Old Dirt: How Arlene Mains Is Redefining a Vilafonté Original

Seriously Old Dirt: How Arlene Mains Is Redefining a Vilafonté Original.

“That’s some seriously old dirt.”

More than a decade ago, Vilafonté co-founder Dr. Phil Freese repeatedly used that phrase when describing the ancient soils of Southern Africa. What began as a casual remark would eventually become the name of one of South Africa’s most intriguing Cabernet Sauvignon-led wines.

At first, Seriously Old Dirt was never intended to become a standalone star within the Vilafonté portfolio. It played the traditional role of a second wine, built from barrels that did not quite fit the stylistic vision of the estate’s flagship wines, Series C and Series M. Yet over time, the wine developed a following of its own.

Today, under the stewardship of Head Winemaker Arlene Mains, Seriously Old Dirt has evolved into a project with a distinct identity, dedicated grower relationships and an increasingly important place within the broader Vilafonté story.

In many ways, Seriously Old Dirt mirrors the evolution of South African fine wine itself: rooted in history, driven by innovation and constantly striving for higher standards.

More Than a Second Wine

When Dutch Wine Apprentice previously spoke with Mike Ratcliffe, for our podcast Grape Masters, the conversation centred on Vilafonté’s origins, its ancient soils and the ambitious vision that led Ratcliffe, Zelma Long and Phil Freese to establish the estate in 1997.

Their dream was remarkably simple yet extraordinarily ambitious: to create a South African wine capable of standing among the world’s finest Bordeaux-inspired blends.

The result became Series C and Series M, two wines that emerged from the same vineyard yet expressed different personalities. Series C embraced structure, power and Cabernet Sauvignon, while Series M pursued a rounder, more generous style built around Merlot and Malbec.

Seriously Old Dirt arrived later.

Originally conceived in 2011 as a classic second wine in the Bordeaux tradition, it provided a home for barrels that fell outside the stylistic parameters of the flagship wines. It was still unmistakably Vilafonté, but its role was largely supportive.

Over the past decade, however, that role has changed dramatically.

What was once a second wine has gradually developed into a dedicated project with its own vineyards, its own grower network and its own winemaking vision. The appointment of Arlene Mains as dedicated winemaker marked a significant step in that evolution.

Today, Seriously Old Dirt is no longer defined by what it is not. It is increasingly defined by what it has become: a Cabernet Sauvignon-focused wine with a distinct identity and a clear sense of purpose.

This transformation mirrors a broader trend within South African fine wine. As producers continue to refine their focus and deepen their understanding of vineyard sites, wines that once played supporting roles are increasingly developing identities of their own. Seriously Old Dirt is a compelling example of that evolution.

To discover the full story behind Vilafonte check out our article ‘Vilafonté, A Standard Bearer of South African Wine Excellence’ and the accompanying podcast.

Enter Arlene Mains

Arlene Mains did not originally set out to become a winemaker.

After beginning her studies in molecular biology at Stellenbosch University, she found herself increasingly drawn towards wine. What began as scientific curiosity gradually evolved into a passion for viticulture and winemaking, ultimately leading her to pursue a career in the industry.

After building experience in South Africa, Napa Valley and Bordeaux, Mains arrived at Vilafonté with a rare combination of scientific training, vineyard expertise and winemaking experience. It was precisely the skill set required for a wine that depends as much on grower relationships as cellar decisions.

Her scientific background remains visible in the way she approaches wine. There is a methodical nature to her thinking, but it is balanced by a deep appreciation for farming and the realities of the vineyard. The combination has proven particularly valuable in a project where quality improvements often begin long before grapes reach the cellar.

Today, she represents part of a new generation helping shape Vilafonté’s future.

Building a Cabernet Sauvignon Network

One of the most compelling aspects of Seriously Old Dirt is that it is built through relationships.

Rather than relying solely on estate-owned vineyards, the wine draws heavily from a carefully selected group of growers located primarily in Robertson and Bonnievale.

While Stellenbosch often dominates discussions around South African Cabernet Sauvignon, Robertson and neighboring Bonnievale have quietly established a reputation for producing concentrated fruit from warm, dry growing conditions moderated by cooling influences from the Breede River valley. For Vilafonté, these regions provide mature Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards capable of delivering both ripeness and structure, making them an ideal foundation for Seriously Old Dirt.

Many of the vineyards involved contain mature Cabernet Sauvignon vines, some averaging around 25 years of age. These are not anonymous grape suppliers. They are long-term partners whose knowledge of their vineyards is measured in decades.

When Mains joined the project, she recognized an opportunity.

Historically, some of these vineyards had been managed with volume as a primary objective. Vilafonté, however, was pursuing something different. The goal was simple: improve quality by reducing yields.

Fruit thinning became more aggressive. Crop levels were lowered. Vineyard practices were adjusted to encourage smaller berries and greater concentration.

According to Mains, some vineyards experienced yield reductions of approximately 20 to 25 percent. That figure deserves attention. Asking a grower to remove a quarter of their crop is not simply a viticultural decision. It is an economic one. Every bunch removed represents potential income sacrificed in pursuit of quality.

The only way such a strategy succeeds is through partnership. 

As Mains puts it: “It’s a partnership. If the growers succeed, we succeed.”

Vilafonté’s approach is built around long-term collaboration and shared incentives. Growers are rewarded for quality improvements and become active participants in the wine’s success. The results are now becoming visible.

Several growers have become so invested in the project that they have planted additional Cabernet Sauvignon blocks specifically with Seriously Old Dirt in mind. Others have embraced more intensive vineyard management practices after seeing the impact on quality and consistency. That level of commitment says a great deal about the confidence they have in the wine’s future.

Lessons from Napa Valley

Much of Mains’ approach can be traced back to her time at Opus One in Napa Valley.

Like many young winemakers, she initially expected to learn primarily in the cellar. Instead, she found herself spending extensive time in the vineyard.

There she learned that great wines are often shaped years before they are bottled.

Pruning decisions influence future vintages. Canopy management determines ripening patterns. Yield management affects concentration and balance. Every choice carries long-term consequences.

The reason Mains is comfortable asking growers to sacrifice volume lies partly in those lessons learned at Opus One, where vineyard decisions were measured not in months but in years.

At Opus One, she also witnessed the value of close collaboration between vineyard and cellar teams. Rather than operating as separate disciplines, viticulture and winemaking were treated as parts of a single process. That perspective has stayed with her throughout her career.

The philosophy aligns naturally with Vilafonté’s own culture. Mike Ratcliffe has frequently described the team as “wine growers” rather than simply winemakers.

For Mains, the distinction matters.

The objective is not merely to grow grapes. The objective is to grow grapes capable of becoming exceptional wine.

Cabernet Sauvignon’s South African Renaissance

The evolution of Seriously Old Dirt also reflects a broader movement within South Africa.

Over the past two decades, Cabernet Sauvignon has undergone something of a renaissance. Improvements in site selection, vineyard management and winemaking have elevated quality across the country, while producers increasingly focus on freshness, balance and elegance rather than simple power.

The result is a generation of Cabernet Sauvignon wines capable of competing confidently on the global stage.

Seriously Old Dirt sits comfortably within that movement.

Today, the wine is overwhelmingly Cabernet Sauvignon-driven, supported by smaller amounts of Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. These supporting varieties contribute texture and complexity, but Cabernet Sauvignon remains the defining voice.

There is good reason for that.

Cabernet Sauvignon occupies a unique position within the world of fine wine. Few grape varieties combine structure, freshness, age worthiness and transparency to site quite so effectively. For Vilafonté, Cabernet Sauvignon has always been one of the clearest vehicles for expressing both vineyard character and winemaking philosophy.

In Seriously Old Dirt, it provides not only the backbone of the blend but increasingly its identity.

Mains often describes Seriously Old Dirt as “approachable, but still serious.”

It is perhaps the most concise description of the project. The wine is designed to be enjoyed earlier than the flagship bottlings, yet retains enough structure and complexity to reward cellaring.

That positioning has helped establish Seriously Old Dirt as more than simply an introduction to the Vilafonté portfolio. It has become a wine capable of standing confidently on its own merits.

Consistency Without Uniformity

One of the challenges facing any established wine brand is consistency.

Consumers expect familiarity, yet nature refuses to repeat itself.

Mains acknowledges that vineyard practices have evolved significantly in recent years. Yields are lower, berries are smaller and vineyard management has become more precise than ever before. Yet despite these changes, the objective remains consistency of style.

The wine should continue to taste like Seriously Old Dirt. It should carry a recognisable Vilafonté signature while allowing each vintage to express its own personality. That balance between continuity and evolution is central to the project’s success.

The goal is not to eliminate vintage variation, but to ensure that every vintage remains true to the philosophy of the wine.

The 2022 Vintage

The 2022 growing season was not an easy one.

Rainfall during the vegetative period increased humidity levels and created significant disease pressure across the vineyards. Growers were forced to remain vigilant throughout the season, and harvest arrived noticeably later than normal. Depending on the vineyard block, picking occurred roughly 10 to 14 days behind schedule.

For Mains, the vintage presented another challenge. It followed the highly regarded 2021 vintage. Like many winemakers, she initially found herself comparing the new wines against their predecessor. The concentrated, powerful character of 2021 had left a strong impression.

At first, 2022 seemed quieter. Then, gradually, its personality began to emerge.

Rather than competing with the intensity of 2021, the vintage revealed a different set of strengths. Where 2021 delivered power and concentration, 2022 offered elegance and refinement. The tannins were softer. The fruit profile became more subtle. The wine revealed itself through precision rather than force.

As Mains explained, it took time to appreciate the vintage for what it was rather than what it was not.

The 2022 vintage is an excellent reminder that great wine often rewards patience—not only from consumers, but from winemakers as well.

Review: Vilafonté Seriously Old Dirt 2022

DWA Score: 92/100

The 2022 Seriously Old Dirt immediately impresses with its balance and composure. Aromas of blackcurrant, blackberry and dark cherry are layered with graphite, cedar, tobacco leaf, dried herbs and subtle baking spice. There is an underlying savoury character that adds complexity without overwhelming the fruit.

The palate reflects the story of the vintage itself. Rather than chasing power, the wine embraces elegance and precision. Cabernet Sauvignon provides the structural backbone, delivering notes of cassis, black plum and pencil shavings, while the supporting varieties contribute texture and nuance.

Fine-grained tannins and vibrant acidity create impressive energy throughout the wine. The finish is long, focused and refined, with lingering notes of dark fruit, herbs and gentle oak spice.

This is not the most powerful expression of Seriously Old Dirt, but it may be one of the most elegant. The wine rewards attention rather than demanding it, revealing layer after layer of detail as it opens in the glass. It is also the kind of wine that reminds you why Cabernet Sauvignon remains one of the benchmark varieties of the fine wine world.

Approachable today, yet structured enough to reward further cellaring, this is a highly convincing expression of Seriously Old Dirt and a testament to the direction in which the project continues to evolve.

We previously reviewed the 2019 vintage of Seriously Old Dirt, click here to read that review.

A New Chapter

The evolution of Seriously Old Dirt coincides with a broader transition at Vilafonté itself.

Following the retirement of co-founders Zelma Long and Phil Freese as shareholders, the winery has entered a new chapter. While the founding philosophy remains unchanged, a new generation is increasingly responsible for carrying it forward.

Through figures such as Arlene Mains and Chris de Vries (Head Winemaker for Series M and Series C), Vilafonté is demonstrating that succession need not mean reinvention. Instead, it can represent continuity guided by fresh perspectives.

The same values that shaped Vilafonté from the beginning—focus, quality, patience and vineyard-first thinking—remain firmly in place. The difference is that new voices are now helping define how those values are expressed.

In that sense, Seriously Old Dirt has become more than a wine. It has become a symbol of transition: honoring the past while helping define the future.

More Than an Entry Point

It would be tempting to describe Seriously Old Dirt as the accessible wine within the Vilafonté portfolio. Technically, that may be true. Yet such a description risks understating its importance.

This is no longer merely a second wine. It has become a dedicated project with its own grower network, its own winemaking philosophy and its own identity. It serves as a bridge between Vilafonté’s founding vision and the next generation responsible for carrying that vision forward.

In many ways, the wine embodies the themes Mike Ratcliffe often speaks about when discussing the future of South African wine: confidence, leadership and focus.

Confidence to pursue quality over quantity. Leadership to work collaboratively with growers. Focus to refine a wine around a clear stylistic identity.

Conclusion

When Phil Freese first joked about South Africa’s “seriously old dirt”, he was talking about geology.

Today, the phrase means something much broader.

It speaks of ancient soils, certainly, but also of mature vineyards, accumulated knowledge, long-term grower relationships and a philosophy patiently refined over decades. It reflects the willingness to sacrifice yield for quality, the patience to think beyond a single vintage and the confidence to allow a wine to develop its own identity.

Under Arlene Mains, Seriously Old Dirt has become more than a clever name or a supporting act within the Vilafonté portfolio. It has become a wine that captures both the estate’s heritage and its future.

What began as a second wine is increasingly emerging as one of the clearest expressions of the Vilafonté philosophy itself.

And for a wine named after ancient soils, its most exciting years may still lie ahead.

This article is written by our own Niels Aarts. We thank Arlene Mains and Vilafonté for their time and support in writing this article, as well as their Dutch importer and distributor, our partner, Vinites. If you are interested in the wine, you can reach out to Vinites directly, or find it through selected partners in hospitality and retail.