Henri Boillot – 2018 Meursault

Henri Boillot – 2018 Meursault.

Few names in contemporary Burgundy are as closely associated with precise, powerful Chardonnay as Domaine Henri Boillot. Based in Meursault and drawing on an exceptional collection of vineyards across the Côte de Beaune, Henri Boillot has developed a highly recognisable style in which concentration and carefully judged élevage are counterbalanced by freshness, minerality and definition.

The 2018 Meursault offers an accessible introduction to that philosophy. Coming from a warm and generous vintage, it possesses the breadth expected from its appellation, but without becoming heavy or excessively ripe. Instead, Boillot finds an appealing tension between the naturally richer character of Meursault and the freshness that is such an important part of his style.

About the Winery

Domaine Henri Boillot stands among the leading addresses of the Côte de Beaune, particularly for Chardonnay. Henri represents the fifth generation of the Boillot family in Burgundy and established his own domaine after gradually taking responsibility for the family vineyards. Today, the domaine is particularly renowned for its holdings in Puligny-Montrachet, Meursault and Volnay.

Precision lies at the heart of Boillot’s approach. Fruit is harvested with close attention to physiological ripeness, while élevage is intended to provide texture and complexity without obscuring the identity of the vineyard. His white wines can be generous in their youth, particularly in warmer vintages, but underneath that richness there is generally a firm line of acidity and minerality that gives the wines their definition.

We experienced this at a considerably higher level in our earlier review of the 2018 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de La Mouchère 1er Cru which we awarded 97/100 DWA points. That wine showed the scale, depth and longevity Boillot can achieve from one of his greatest terroirs. This village-level Meursault is naturally less ambitious, but the family resemblance is unmistakable: ripe fruit, carefully integrated oak, concentration and a mineral freshness that prevents the wine from becoming overly broad.

About the Wine

The 2018 Meursault immediately shows the generosity of both its appellation and vintage. The nose opens with ripe pear, yellow apple and white peach, accompanied by lemon peel and a touch of grapefruit that brings welcome freshness. With some air, the fruit gives way to more recognizably Meursault-like notes of toasted hazelnut, almond and subtle pastry, alongside a delicate smoky reduction and restrained oak influence.

There is richness here, but it never becomes excessive. The warmer character of 2018 has given the wine ripe fruit and a relatively broad aromatic profile, while citrus and mineral notes provide contrast. Subtle suggestions of white flowers, grilled nuts and a slightly flinty character emerge as the wine develops in the glass, giving it considerably more complexity than one might initially expect from a village wine.

On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, with a rounded and almost creamy texture through the center. Pear, ripe apple and citrus return, now joined by touches of hazelnut, gentle toast and a savoury quality from the élevage. Yet what makes the wine particularly successful is the freshness running underneath this richness. A firm line of acidity provides shape, while a subtle saline and stony character gives the wine definition towards the finish.

This creates an attractive contrast between the breadth traditionally associated with Meursault and the more energetic, precise signature of Henri Boillot. The wine has weight without feeling cumbersome, and the oak, although certainly present, has settled comfortably into the fruit. At eight years of age, the different components are beginning to come together particularly well, with some of the youthful primary fruit making way for the first more mature notes of nuts, toast and gentle creaminess.

The finish is persistent rather than monumental, carrying citrus zest, pear, toasted almond and a slightly saline mineral note. It does not possess the extraordinary length or structural depth of Boillot’s finest Premier Crus, nor should it, but it offers a convincing expression of Meursault and a clear introduction to the domaine’s style.

Perhaps most interesting is how well the 2018 vintage has developed. What could initially have been a rather generous expression of Meursault now shows a more harmonious balance between ripe fruit, texture and freshness. There is still sufficient energy to carry the wine further, although we see little reason to postpone drinking it for too long. At this stage, it combines remaining fruit with the first attractive signs of bottle development.

This is a polished and characterful village Meursault from one of Burgundy’s most accomplished Chardonnay producers. It lacks some of the tension and complexity that separate Boillot’s Premier Cru wines from the pack, but within its classification it delivers considerable depth, balance and typicity.

We award the 2018 Henri Boillot Meursault 92/100 DWA points.

We enjoyed this wine during a Bring Your Own Bottle Dinner at Michelin Restaurant Wolfslaar, where the wine performed exceptionally well over a length of three courses featuring scallops, lobster and chicken ravioli and turbot.

For readers interested in seeing what Henri Boillot can achieve when working with one of his greatest vineyards, we also recommend our earlier review of the 2018 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de La Mouchère 1er Cru, which received 97/100 DWA points.

This review is written by our own Niels Aarts. Domaine Henri Boillot is imported in the Netherlands by our partner Wijnkooperij de Lange.

Taste Date:     September 2026

Website:         Domaine Henri Boillot