La Rioja Alta S.A. Classic Rioja with a Modern Mindset.
An In-Depth Interview with Guillermo de Aranzabal Bittner. By Dutch Wine Apprentice – Grape Masters Podcast Series.
In the historic Barrio de la Estación in Haro—Rioja’s most iconic winemaking district—stands La Rioja Alta S.A., a winery that bridges the legacy and future of classic Rioja. Founded in 1890 by five families from the Basque Country and Rioja, the estate remains family-owned and today looks to the future under the guidance of Guillermo de Aranzabal, fifth-generation Alberdi family member and current chairman.
As part of our Grape Masters podcast series, we sat down with Guillermo de Aranzabal Bittner, sixth generation and next in line to lead the winery, for an in-depth conversation about heritage, philosophy, and evolution.
Renowned for its age-worthy wines and uncompromising standards, La Rioja Alta S.A. is built on a foundation of family, balance, and long-term vision. During our visit—which included a detailed tour of the cellars, cooperage, and barrel-aging rooms—we discovered what continues to set this estate apart as one of Spain’s most respected and forward-thinking classic producers.
A Legacy of Family and Long-Term Thinking
“This is a winery built for the long haul,” Guillermo told us, emphasizing that the true strength of La Rioja Alta, S.A. lies in its family structure. Though originally founded by five families, today ownership is concentrated in the Alberdi family. “This allows us to avoid dilution of vision. We’re not chasing short-term gains—we’re building wines to last generations.”
That long-term perspective is embedded in every decision. Vineyards planted today might not yield grapes for another 10 years, and wines like Gran Reserva 904 or 890 take well over a decade to reach the consumer. “It’s not about fast returns,” Guillermo explains, “it’s about ensuring consistency, style, and quality year after year.”
The winery remains a deeply rooted community enterprise. Many employees, from vineyard workers to cellar staff, represent the second or third generation of their families to work at La Rioja Alta S.A. “There’s a shared DNA here,” says Guillermo. “It’s not just about management continuity, it’s about preserving cultural memory across the entire operation.”
What Classic Rioja Means Today
La Rioja Alta S.A. has long been a standard-bearer of the clásico Rioja style—marked by blending grapes from the three major subzones (Rioja Alta, Alavesa, and Oriental), extensive aging in American oak, and a focus on balance and elegance over raw power or fruitiness.
But that doesn’t mean standing still. “We consider ourselves avant-garde classics,” Guillermo told us. “We invest heavily in technology—not for show, but to improve wine quality.” From optical grape sorting to drone-assisted vineyard monitoring and microchipped barrels, the winery has modernized without compromising tradition.
One important principle guides their innovation: evolution, not revolution. Changes are implemented gradually, over decades, so customers recognize the continuity of style. “If you taste Viña Ardanza from the 1980s and the current release,” Guillermo explains, “you’ll notice subtle differences—more freshness, precision—but it’s unmistakably the same wine.”
Gran Reserva 904 2015: A Benchmark Vintage
During our interview, Guillermo opened the Gran Reserva 904 Selección Especial 2015, the first time this label has ever been awarded the Selección Especial designation since its debut in 1904.
This wine, a blend of 90% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano, is a masterclass in Rioja elegance. It was aged for four years in American oak barrels and another four in bottle before release in 2023. The result is a wine that perfectly marries maturity with vitality.
Tasting Note:
The 904 Selección Especial 2015 opens with a striking aromatic profile: dried cherries, red plum, and wild strawberry layered with complex notes of tobacco leaf, cedar, clove, and a whisper of dried herbs. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied but silky in texture, with polished tannins and a core of ripe red fruit. Secondary flavors of vanilla, leather, and cigar box evolve with time in the glass, offering persistent complexity and elegance. The acidity is bright yet integrated, providing lift and longevity. The finish is long, harmonious, and deeply satisfying—a wine to drink now or cellar for two decades.
“If Gran Reserva 890 is velvet, then 904 is silk,” Guillermo says. “This vintage had everything go right—from vineyard to barrel.”
Released after nearly 10 years of aging, the 2015 vintage spent four years in American oak and another four in bottle before hitting the market in 2023. It is a wine that balances structure, freshness, and maturity—ready to drink now, but built to age for decades.
The Details That Make the Difference
Beyond the blends and barrels, it is the attention to detail that elevates La Rioja Alta, S.A.’s work. For instance, the winery performs manual racking by candlelight every six months—a labor-intensive but critical step that eliminates sediment and allows subtle oxygenation. Every barrel is tagged with a microchip for full traceability, and over 60% of production is rejected at various stages for not meeting brand-specific standards.
“People don’t realize how many wines never make it into the final product,” Guillermo says. “We own more vineyards, make more wine, and use more oak than we need, so that we can be extremely selective.”
Only in top vintages are all flagship wines produced. For example, the Gran Reserva 904 is only made around five times per decade. Others, like the Gran Reserva 890, even less. This commitment to quality over quantity means that a bottle of La Rioja Alta, S.A. represents a rigorous, years-long selection process.
A Broader Family of Wineries
The La Rioja Alta, S.A. group includes more than just its Haro base. In Ribera del Duero, Bodegas Áster explores a modern take on the region with wines like El Espino and Finca El Otero. In Rías Baixas, the family produces acclaimed Albariños under Lagar de Fornelos, including the long-aged Lindeiros. And in Rioja Alavesa, the Torre de Oña estate represents the modern face of Rioja, with terroir-driven wines like Finca Martelo, Finca San Martín, and the recently released El Camino.
Each project is deeply integrated into its region, with estate-grown fruit, distinct vinification styles, and a shared commitment to authenticity and sustainability.
Rioja’s Identity: Complexity or Confusion?
As Rioja evolves, its classification system has grown more complex. While Guillermo values the diversity of styles emerging from the region, he cautions against overwhelming consumers. “The simplicity of crianza, Reserva, and Gran Reserva had a lot of value. Now we’re adding layers that risk confusing the public.”
Nonetheless, Guillermo acknowledges that such evolution is essential to Rioja’s continued relevance. “We must be innovative without losing our identity. Balance, elegance, and aging potential—those are the hallmarks of Rioja that we will always defend.”
Final Thoughts
La Rioja Alta S.A. is many things: a custodian of Rioja heritage, a quiet pioneer of modern techniques, and above all, a family-driven project focused on excellence. From the hand-racked barrels to the decade-long wait before a wine is released, every decision reflects a commitment to craft and authenticity.
For wine lovers seeking balance, depth, and elegance in their glass—there are few producers who deliver it as consistently and transparently as La Rioja Alta, S.A.
Learn More on Grape Masters
Guillermo de Aranzabal Bittner is our guest in our upcoming episode of the Grape Masters podcast, where we explore his family’s legacy, the philosophy of La Rioja Alta S.A., and the future of Rioja. For more information on the podcast, click here. Be sure to subscribe on your favorite platform for more interviews with leading figures in the wine world.
This article is written by Niels Aarts for Dutch Wine Apprentice – part of the Grape Masters Podcast Series. La Rioja Alta S.A. is imported and distributed in the Netherlands by Anfors Imperial. We thank Guillermo de Aranzabal Bittner and the team at La Rioja Alta, S.A. for their hospitality and insight.
