Château Brane-Cantenac, Solid & Silent Force in Margaux.
At the heart of the Margaux appellation lies Château Brane-Cantenac, a renowned Second Growth in the 1855 classification. For Henri Lurton, owner and winemaker, this estate is not just a property — it is his home. “I was born in this place,” he tells us. “My family has owned it since 1925.” In this exclusive interview, Lurton opens up the estate’s fascinating history, his approach to winemaking, and the ongoing commitment to preserving the family legacy.
The Early Days: A Legacy in the Making
Lurton begins by recalling the history of the estate. “My great-grandfather bought Brane-Cantenac in 1925,” he explains. “At that time, the château was far from the prestigious propery it is today. Facilities were not up to date and the vineyards were not flourishing”.
Despite these challenges, Henri’s great-grandfather was determined to keep the estate afloat. “Even though they were losing money on the property, they managed to hold on to Château Brane-Cantenac, while also owning a 40% share in Château Margaux,” Lurton says.
However, during the Second World War, Henri’s family faced further difficulties. “My grandfather, who was a lawyer and not a viticulturist, took over the estate after my great-grandfather passed away. After the war, he made the decision to sell his share in Château Margaux to ensure the survival of Brane-Cantenac.”
The decision to part ways with Château Margaux was significant, but Henri’s grandfather saw it as a necessary move. “At the time, Brane-Cantenac was considered one of the top second-growths in Bordeaux. It was the only estate among the second growths, and my grandfather saw its potential.”
The Enduring Relevance of the 1855 Classification
As a classified growth, Brane-Cantenac is part of a system that has often been questioned for its longevity and relevance. But Lurton sees it differently. “It is very important the 1855 classification does not change. It’s not only about market prices, it supports investment, quality, and global recognition. It even helps producers outside of the classification by setting benchmarks.” According to Henri Lurton, recognition and consistency are particularly important in today’s world, where wine consumption habits are shifting.
Embracing Modern Winemaking
Henri Lurton’s journey began when he returned to the family estate after one year abroad. “I worked with my father for several years, and in 1990, I went to Australia, South Africa and Chile to gain experience. When I returned, my father asked me to take over, and I’ve been in charge ever since” he says. “My father, who passed away at 97, had a profound influence on me, and his vision continues to guide my work today.”
While his role has evolved over time — from hands-on vineyard and cellar work to global ambassador for the brand — Lurton’s connection to Brane-Cantenac remains personal. Lurton’s approach to winemaking has always been rooted in tradition, but he isn’t afraid to embrace modern techniques. “When we renovated the château and the winery in 1999, we were focused on creating a sustainable, eco-friendly space. It was a novel concept at the time, and we were among the first in Bordeaux to make such a move.”
The shift toward sustainability was not just a trend for Lurton — it was a fundamental part of his philosophy. “We implemented optical sorting, which was revolutionary at the time. It allowed us to select grapes with much more precision and speed, ensuring the highest quality wine.”
The Importance of Terroir
At the top of range stands Brane-Cantenac’s Grand Vin. This wine is praised for its great aging potential and refined tannin structure. Recent studies have supported this long-aging ability, identifying specific aromatic precursors unique to Brane-Cantenac’s terroir.
As a direct result of his academic background in viticulture, the terroir at Château Brane-Cantenac is one of Henri’s primary focuses. “The soil here is very homogeneous, but we do have small differences, which make a big impact on the wines. We also work with specific vineyard plots,” he explains. “It’s crucial to understand how each plot contributes to the overall blend, which is why we ferment separately by variety and terroir.”
Understanding Ancient Knowledge
Lurton is enthusiastic about how much viticultural knowledge has grown. “When I started, Bordeaux was all about winemaking. Now, there’s much more understanding of the soil and subsoil. We’ve done research with universities.” What was once knowledge passed down through generations is now being studied, mapped, and quantified, allowing winemakers to make even more precise decisions. “Each chateau used to know its best plots, but didn’t know exactly what was happening beneath. Now we have maps and we collaborate more across the region.” Modern innovations contribute to ultra-precise winemaking. “Bordeaux is often seen as classic, but the technology we use is top level.”
The Human Touch
Despite the technological progress, Lurton believes that human connection remains central. “Meeting people, doing tastings, sharing vintages over a dinner: that’s how we connect. We don’t make wine for ourselves.” With his team, including manager Marie-Hélène Fourier, Lurton has built strong relationships across Bordeaux’s négociant network and beyond. “The market is tough. Promotion is part of our job now.”
Looking to the Future
For Lurton, it is all about staying true to the identity of Brane-Cantenac while continuously learning, adapting, and connecting. As he puts it, “We always improve, but the soul of Brane-Cantenac remains.” Lurton is passing down this soul to the next generation. “I’m proud to see my children getting involved in the business. My daughter Madeleine, who didn’t initially want to work in the wine industry, has now joined us. She’s working with me, and I’m so happy to have her on board,” he says with a smile. “The next generation will bring new ideas and innovations, and I’m confident they will continue the legacy we’ve built.”
The Wines
Château Brane-Cantenac produces three red wines: Brane-Cantenac, Baron de Brane, and Margaux de Brane. Brane-Cantenac is the Grand Vin, made from the best plots on the plateau in front of the chateau (Terrasse IV). Baron de Brane is a selection of another area of the property (Terrasse III & V). Margaux de Brane is the entry-level wine. It is made from younger vines across the estate.
Lurton recently introduced a white wine to the Brane-Cantenac portfolio. “It wasn’t about market adaptation. It was about terroir,” he explains. “We found a soil much more suited for white than red. It was a fantastic challenge for the team.” Lurton continues: “every year, we learn more about the terroir, and the wine just gets better and better.’ He believes the return to white wines in Bordeaux could appeal to younger generations.
During our visit in December 2024, we tasted a selection of the wines, below our tasting notes and ratings.
Baron de Brane Blanc 2023
A refined white Bordeaux blend showing sophistication and subtle luxury. The nose is floral and fragrant, with gentle spice, delicate oak integration, and a touch of citrus zest. The palate begins with a smooth, almost creamy texture, then brightens with crisp acidity and a mineral edge. Well-structured with freshness and persistence and a touch of salinity on the finish.
DWA Score: 92 points
Margaux de Brane 2015
A charming and gentle expression of Margaux. The nose opens with soft, slightly stewed strawberry fruit — more a result of graceful aging than over-ripeness — complemented by subtle hints of tobacco and dried herbs. On the palate, it is supple and flowing, with a light touch and silky texture. Elegant, with a whisper of red fruit and a touch of earthiness.
DWA Score: 91 points
Baron de Brane 2015
More complex and structured than Margaux de Brane, the wine shows a smoky, savoury nose with bright strawberry aromas and a hint of spice. On the palate, it offers vibrant acidity and a firm yet refined structure. The red fruit remains soft and expressive, balanced by a touch of bitterness toward the finish, which adds character and lift. A wine with personality and elegance.
DWA Score: 92 points
Brane-Cantenac 2015
A classic Margaux with a modern sensibility. The bouquet reveals dark strawberry, cedar, sweet spice, and a hint of incense. The entry is velvety and soft, evolving into a structured mid-palate with finely textured, slightly grainy tannins and lively acidity. Notes of rooibos tea, salinity, and subtle herbal tones add complexity. Already open and expressive, but with air it reveals even greater depth. A long, elegant finish seals the impression.
DWA Score: 94 points
Brane-Cantenac 2005
A stellar wine from a near-perfect vintage. The nose is mature yet vibrant, with ripe strawberry, autumn leaves, tobacco, and dried herbs. On the palate, it is poised and dignified, with elegant fruit, soft tannins, and lifted acidity. There’s a sense of restraint and freshness, offering depth without weight. A wine of grace and longevity that still shows hidden reserves.
DWA Score: 94 points
The Essence of Balance
It is clear that Lurton’s philosophy revolves around balance — whether it’s in the vineyards, the cellar, or the wines themselves. Henri Lurton’s commitment to quality, tradition, and innovation at Château Brane-Cantenac is a testament to his dedication to both the estate’s legacy and the future of Bordeaux winemaking.
“We don’t want to chase trends; we want to make wines that stand the test of time. We will never sacrifice the essence of our wines. It’s all about finding the right balance and staying true to our terroir.”
The story of Château Brane-Cantenac is not just one of exceptional wines — it’s a story of family, heritage, and the ongoing pursuit of excellence.
Bordeaux and its Future in the World of Fine Wine- The Series
This article is written by our own Hermen Jansen, in collaboration with Niels Aarts. It is based on our visit in December 2024, as part of our interview series ‘Bordeaux, and its future in the World of Fine Wine’. Stay tuned as we will publish more articles and interviews in this series, featuring leaders of the Bordeaux wine region.
We would like to thank Henri Lurton, his daughter Madeleine and the Brane Cantenac team for their warm welcome, time and support in the creation of this article.
