Bodegas Muga: A Rioja Classic, Evolving with Purpose.

An In-Depth Interview with Manuel (Manu) Muga. By Dutch Wine Apprentice – Grape Masters Podcast Series.

In the heart of Rioja Alta, nestled in the historic winemaking district of Barrio de la Estación in Haro, sits Bodegas Muga, one of the most esteemed and family-rooted wineries in Spain. Established in 1932 by Isaac Muga and Aurora Caño, Muga has remained a family affair for three generations. Today, it is run by seven family members, with Manuel “Manu” Muga leading the commercial and export strategy.

During our recent visit, we experienced not just the hospitality of the Muga family, but also the layers of craftsmanship, precision, and philosophy that make this winery a benchmark for quality in Rioja. From an intimate interview with Manu to a guided tour through the cooperage, cellars, and bottling line, we witnessed what sets Muga apart—its deep roots, evolving mindset, and uncompromising standards.

Heritage Built on Determination

“Our grandparents started the winery just before the Spanish Civil War,” Manu told us. “It wasn’t an easy time, but they managed to keep the doors open. That taught the family early on how to face challenges with resilience.”

The first generation laid the foundation. The second gave Muga its brand identity by moving from bulk sales to labeled wines. And the third generation, led by Manu, his brothers, sisters and cousins, took Muga global—transforming it into a household name for Rioja lovers worldwide. Today, exports account for over 50% of the business, with strong ties in markets like the Netherlands, where Muga has worked with Wijnimport Bart for over 40 years.

“We consider our importers part of the family,” said Manu. “They are not just clients—they are ambassadors of our wines.”

The Soul of the Winery: Its Cooperage

At Muga, oak is not just a material; it’s a philosophy. As one of the only wineries in Spain with its own cooperage, Muga controls every stage of barrel production—from tree selection in French forests to in-house toasting and assembly.

We witnessed the full process: freshly cut French oak planks air-dried outdoors for three years, followed by another year in an indoor drying room to reduce humidity. Only then are they ready to be shaped into barrels—painstakingly assembled by hand and heated over fire to bend the staves.

Each barrel is toasted to order depending on the wine’s style: lighter for whites like Flor de Muga, medium for reds like the Selección Especial. The winery makes about 700 barrels annually, plus large wooden casks, or foudres, used for fermentation and aging. These large vats can last up to 50 years—some have been in use since the 1960s.

 “For us, oak is not just a vessel—it’s a tool that shapes the wine. We believe in it so much that we even ferment our red wines in oak vats, not stainless steel or concrete,” explained Manu.

Rioja: A Region of Diversity

While Muga is based in Rioja Alta, its wines reflect the complexity of the entire region. Manu emphasized the climatic and geological diversity found between the subzones: Alta, Alavesa, and Oriental.

“Rioja is a valley between two mountain ranges—the Sierra de Cantabria and the Sierra de la Demanda. We get influences from the Atlantic, the Mediterranean, and the continental interior. That’s rare.”

This geographical variety enables Muga to craft distinct styles from the same base of Tempranillo, complemented by Garnacha, Graciano, and Mazuelo. For example:

• Prado Enea, their Gran Reserva, seeks finesse and elegance.
• Torre Muga and Aro are fuller-bodied, more modern in style.
• Flor de Muga Blanco introduces rare white grapes like Maturana Blanca, adding tension and depth.

“Each vintage is like a new baby,” Manu told us. “We don’t produce every wine every year. If a vintage doesn’t allow for top quality, we put our focus into the Muga Reserva.”

Traditional Practices with a Modern Lens

A walk through the Muga cellars reveals a quiet reverence for tradition. Here, the barrels age in naturally cool, underground spaces, and wines are racked using gravity rather than pumps to preserve purity and precision.

Even as the winery embraces modern tools—like bottling lines capable of handling 2.5 million bottles annually—it stays true to manual techniques. Bottles are labeled after aging, to keep packaging pristine. A portion of each vintage is stored in an experimental “graveyard,” where Muga tracks how wines age over time.

 “We’re always learning,” said Manu. “But we never rush the process. Even with pressure to release wines earlier, we hold back our Gran Reserva’s until they are ready.”

Tasting the Range

We ended our visit with a tasting of two standout wines that showcase Muga’s style and range:

2021 Flor de Muga Blanco

A blend of 40% Viura, 30% Garnacha Blanca, and 30% Maturana Blanca, fermented and aged in French oak. This white is layered with notes of white peach, fennel, citrus, and crushed stone. It’s gastronomic, complex, and shows a beautiful interplay of acidity and minerality.

Rating: 92-point DWA score

Muga Selección Especial 2020

Made only in top vintages, this red combines Tempranillo with Garnacha, Graciano, and Mazuelo. Aged in French oak (40% new), it presents aromas of ripe cherry, clove, and graphite. The palate is smooth, expressive, and balanced—perfect for early enjoyment yet structured for aging.

Rating: 94-point DWA score

Looking Ahead: New Projects and a Bold Step into Ribera del Duero

While Bodegas Muga is deeply rooted in Rioja, it’s clear that the family’s vision doesn’t stop at tradition. In our conversation with Manu Muga, one of the most exciting revelations came when discussing the winery’s next chapter: a completely new project in Ribera del Duero.

“We’ve been thinking about this for a long time,” Manu shared. “It’s not about expansion for the sake of growth. We wanted to do something truly different—something that reflects the identity of Ribera, but with the values and quality mindset that define Muga.”

This is not a side project or a label extension. Muga has already acquired vineyards in Ribera del Duero and is building a dedicated winery. It will be fully autonomous from their Haro facility, with its own team, terroir, and stylistic approach. The project is expected to come to market by late 2026 or early 2027.

The goal is not to replicate Rioja’s elegance or aging philosophy in Ribera, but to express the power and structure of Tempranillo in a new landscape—one shaped by Ribera’s higher altitudes, chalky soils, and extreme continental climate. The project remains under wraps in terms of naming and label design, but it already hints at the Muga family’s openness to innovation rooted in integrity.

Beyond Ribera del Duero, Muga is also exploring more single-vineyard expressions, particularly as interest in terroir-driven Rioja wines continues to rise. Manu mentioned that while Muga hasn’t traditionally focused on village-level bottlings, the potential is there—especially given the subtle differences in character between villages like Haro, Briones, and Villalba.

 “We’ve always blended for balance, but who knows? In the future, a parcel selection or village wine could give a new voice to our vineyards,” he noted.

On the technical side, the winery continues to evolve in small, thoughtful ways: refining their fermentation protocols, investing in precision viticulture, and using biodynamic trials in some parcels. Yet, they are cautious not to follow trends for the sake of trends.

“We’re not here to chase fashion. For us, any change has to be rooted in what improves the wine,” said Manu.

Final Thoughts

Bodegas Muga is many things—a Rioja icon, a standard-bearer for craftsmanship, a guardian of tradition. But it’s also a winery in motion. Whether it’s a new cuvée, a bold expansion into Ribera del Duero, or a renewed focus on expressing terroir, Muga continues to evolve with a sense of purpose and humility.

For those who think they know Rioja, a visit to Muga may surprise you. It’s not just about aging classifications or historic cellars. It’s about how a family, generation after generation, crafts wines that resonate far beyond the glass.

Learn More on Grape Masters

Manuel Muga is our guest in the third episode of season two of our podcast Grape Masters. For more information on the podcast click here. Tune in and be sure to subscribe on your favorite podcast platform for more interviews with leading wineries.

This article is written by our own Niels Aarts. Bodegas Muga is imported and sold in the Netherlands through Wijnimport Bart (for professionals) and QV Select (for consumers).

We would like to thank Manuel Muga, Miguel Ruiz and Jorge Trujillo Lopez for their time and support in writing this article. Picture credits: Dutch Wine Apprentice and Bodegas Muga.