A Tale of Two Legends: Weingut Kühling-Gillot and Battenfeld-Spanier.
In the hills and vineyards of Rheinhessen, Germany, two distinct yet harmonized wineries—Weingut Kühling-Gillot and Battenfeld-Spanier—stand as paragons of innovation and tradition in German winemaking. Helmed by Carolin Spanier and her husband Hans Oliver (H.O.) Spanier, this duo epitomizes a modern yet deeply rooted approach to viticulture. Their story, much like their wines, is a blend of legacy, vision, and a commitment to excellence.
For our podcast Grape Masters we sat down with Carolin Spanier, to discuss the past, present and future of one of the stars of the German wine scene.
A Fusion of Histories
The origins of Kühling-Gillot date back nearly 200 years, with a unique lineage passed down through generations of women. Each marriage introduced a new surname, contributing to the evolving identity of the estate. When Carolin took over, she preserved the name Kühling-Gillot to honor its established reputation. The winery’s vineyards along the Rhine Terrace feature red slate soils, providing a distinct mineral character to its wines.
Conversely, Battenfeld-Spanier has a more contemporary origin. Founded by H.O. Spanier in 1991, it was a bold venture during a challenging period for Rheinhessen. Hans Oliver began with a few family vineyards and a vision to revolutionize winemaking in the region. From the outset, he implemented organic practices and transitioned to biodynamic farming in 2005, solidifying the winery’s reputation for sustainable excellence. These complementary histories intertwine beautifully, showcasing both legacy and modernity.
The Synergy of Strengths
Carolin and H.O.’s union in 2006 marked the beginning of a shared journey defined by complementary roles. Carolin excels in organization and export development, helping the wines reach 38 countries. Meanwhile, H.O. focuses on winemaking and vineyard management, leveraging his decades of expertise. This clear division of responsibilities, coupled with mutual trust, has enabled the wineries to thrive.
“We decided to keep both brands separate to emphasize their unique origins,” Carolin explains. Kühling-Gillot highlights the terroir of red slate soils along the Rhine Terrace, while Battenfeld-Spanier celebrates the limestone-rich vineyards of the Zellertal Valley. Both wineries employ organic and biodynamic principles, ensuring that the terroir’s distinct characteristics shine in every bottle.
A Legacy of Collaboration
The Spaniers are staunch advocates for community-driven progress. Their involvement in the “Message in a Bottle” initiative alongside other notable Rheinhessen producers marked a pivotal moment in the region’s transformation. This collective effort fostered open discussions and shared learning among winemakers, significantly elevating the quality and reputation of Rheinhessen wines.
The exchange of ideas and experiences collected by these friends continues to influence the region’s winemakers, showcasing the power of collaboration in achieving excellence.
Pioneering Sustainable Practices
Sustainability is at the heart of their winemaking philosophy. H.O. employs innovative techniques to adapt to climate change, such as covering vineyards with straw to reduce evaporation and meticulous canopy management. These practices reflect a mindset of stewardship, ensuring the vineyards remain productive and healthy for generations to come.
Both wineries adhere to organic and spontaneous fermentation processes, emphasizing authenticity and a sense of place. “If people say you cannot taste soil, come to us and taste our wines side by side,” Carolin challenges. This commitment to terroir is a defining feature of their winemaking.
The Expression of Terroir
At Kühling-Gillot and Battenfeld-Spanier, terroir is more than a concept; it is a tangible presence in their wines. The stark differences between their red slate and limestone wines highlight the profound influence of soil on flavor and character. This dedication to showcasing the natural elements of their vineyards is a testament to their respect for the land.
Highlights from the Cellar
One standout is the Frauenberg Großes Gewächs, a wine that tells the story of Battenfeld-Spanier’s evolution. The vineyard—a challenging site with calcareous rock—was gifted to H.O. under the promise that it would never be sold. Today, it produces a Riesling of unparalleled minerality and elegance, embodying the winery’s philosophy of bringing soil to the glass. Limited to around 5,000 bottles per year, it showcases the delicate balance of tradition and innovation.
Tasting the 2023 Frauenberg Riesling
During our interview with Carolin, we had the opportunity to share a glass of the 2023 Frauenberg, a masterpiece that encapsulates the essence of limestone terroir.
Below a review of our findings:
On the nose, it exudes aromas of citrus zest, white flowers, and a hint of wet stone. The palate reveals a striking minerality, complemented by layers of green apple, pear, and subtle saline notes. Its structure is precise, with vibrant acidity balancing the wine’s depth and richness.
This wine is characterized by its extraordinary length and complexity. The finish lingers with a chalky salinity, a hallmark of its origin. Equally impressive in youth as it is with age, this Riesling is a true testament to the artistry and vision of Battenfeld-Spanier.
We award this wine with a 95-point DWA score.
Challenges and Triumphs
The 2023 vintage epitomized resilience. The year brought floods, hailstorms, and even a cellar fire, yet the team’s unwavering dedication resulted in wines of exceptional quality. “Even in challenging years, great winemakers know how to adapt,” Carolin reflects. Their ability to overcome adversity underscores their commitment to excellence.
Expanding Horizons
Exporting to 38 countries, Carolin has been instrumental in sharing their wines with the world. From Europe to far-flung markets, the appeal of their Rieslings and Burgundian varieties continues to grow. Their collaboration with Bordeaux’s La Place de Bordeaux, through which they release their iconic C.O. Liquid Earth, has further elevated the global perception of German Riesling, placing it alongside some of the world’s finest wines.
Looking Ahead
With their sons showing interest in the family business, the future of Kühling-Gillot Battenfeld-Spanier looks promising. The family’s focus remains on refining their craft and exploring new opportunities, from sparkling wines to innovative distribution models. Their new aging cellar further underscores their commitment to delivering perfectly matured wines to their customers.
Conclusion
The story of Kühling-Gillot Battenfeld-Spanier is one of passion, perseverance, and partnership. Their wines not only capture the essence of Rheinhessen but also stand as a testament to the transformative power of vision and collaboration. As Carolin aptly puts it, “A great wine touches you the moment you drink it.” Indeed, their wines leave an indelible mark on all who experience them.
Learn more, on Grape Masters
Carolin is our guest in the first episode of season two of our podcast Grape Masters, which will be released shortly. For more information on the podcast click here. Stay tuned and be sure to subscribe on your favorite podcast platform to get notified when the interview goes live.
This article is written by our own Niels Aarts. The wines of Kühling-Gillot Battenfeld-Spanier are imported in the Netherlands and available through De Bruijn in Wijnen, Bâtard Vintrepreneurs and their partners. Picture credits: Kühling-Gillot Battenfeld-Spanier and Dutch Wine Apprentice.