2022 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Les Genavrières – Gérard Peirazeau & Fils.
In this review we discuss a fine red Burgundy from a relative unknown yet reputative producer. We explore Gérard Peirazeau & Fils, a revived winery from Morey-Saint-Denis. We taste their 2022 Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru Les Genavrières.
Although Peirazeau is an established name in Morey-Saint-Denis, chances are you may not have heard of it. To be honest, we had to do our research ourselves. We discovered the domain is steeped in history, but their clientele for decades only consisted of private clients. Just recently the domain opened its cellar doors to the market. It is time to get to know this new old kind on the block.
About the Winery
The domains vineyards were created by Jules Groffier (1898-1974), later divided between his children. His son Robert Groffier received a part and founded Domaine Robert Groffier Père & Fils. The other part was received by daughter Bernadette, who married Mr. Peirazeau and established Domaine Peirazeau-Groffier.
Bernadette’s son Gérard recently passed the torch to his son Laurent. Together with his partner Sophie Charlopin – from Domaine Philippe Charlopin-Parizot – Laurent produces en sells wines under the label of Domaine Gérard Peirazeau & Fils.
Laurent en Sophie are blessed with outstanding spots from Robert Groffier’s original estate. Their three and a half hectares of vineyards are spread over three villages: Chambolle Musigny, Morey-Saint-Denis and Gevrey-Chambertin. The domain produces thirteen appellations, including the prestigious Grand Crus Chambertin Clos de Bèze, Charmes-Chambertin, Clos de la Roche, Clos Saint-Denis and Bonnes Mares.
Where Sophie takes care of management and commerce, Laurent does viticulture and vinification. Although not certified, Laurent strives sustainable and organic farming. The work in the cellar can be described as low interventional and classical Burgundian. All the grapes are destemmed. Fermentations start with indigenous yeast and soft extraction methods are used. The wines are racked by gravity and aged for about eighteen months in French oak barrels, of which around thirty percent new.
About the Village and Vineyard
The village of Morey links its name to one of its most famous climats: Clos Saint-Denis. With only 137 hectares of vineyards, Morey-Saint-Denis is the smallest village appellation of the Côte de Nuits. In fact, Morey-Saint-Denis forms a bridge between Gevrey-Chambertin in the north and Chambolle-Musigny in the south. It is said wines from Morey-Saint-Denis hold the middle between the masculine Gevrey-Chambertin and feminine Chambolle-Musigny. Although the majority is Pinot Noir, there also is a little white to find.
Les Genavrières – not to be confused by Meursault’s Genevrieres – is one of Morey-Saint-Denis’ twenty Premier Cru vineyards. The just over one-hectare vineyard lies mid slope, above the southern end of Clos de la Roche Grand Cru. The soil is thin, rocky and rich in limestone. The position at the top of the hill gives Les Genavrières a slightly cooler profile. Eastern exposure ensures phenolic ripeness, where sugar ripeness is tempered by cooling nights.
About the Wine
Everyone seems to agree vintage 2022 was a good for Burgundy. We quote Robert Parker: ‘What is clear is that 2022 is another very strong Burgundy vintage, offering excellence in both colors and in a wide variety of styles.’ Jasper Morris MW agrees: ‘Ladies and gentlemen, we have a fine and consistent Burgundy vintage in our hands. Very good wines and plenty of them, consistent in both colours and across the region.’
Now let’s move on to the glass. Purple coloured and expressive and pure scented, the 2022 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Les Genavrières by Gérard Peirazeau & Fils is marked by a combination of floral characteristics, tingling fresh purple-coloured fruits and a warming herbal touch. Violets and purple roses mingle up with black cherries, wild brambles and dark raspberries, spiced up by wild herbes and oriental spices like clove and cinnamon.
The wine opens with freshly picked raspberry, underripe dark cherries and a touch of blackcurrant. A wafer-thin mineral core reveals, just after electrifying acids enter te stage. Acids and tannins provide pressure and tension, in a pleasant way. Not a single harsh tannin to be found. Its delicate structure is intertwined in crystal clear juice. In the long-lasting aftertaste we find cherry, cranberry and orange.
No doubt the Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Les Genavrières 2022 by Gérard Peirazeau & Fils is a spring chicken. The unpolished diamond behaves juvenile, but rather like an energic kiddo, than a brutal brat. Opening the bottle now is a recipe for a joyful and spirited discussion. Decent cellaring time however will result in more mature conversations.
We reward the 2022 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Les Genavrières by Gérard Peirazeau & Fils with a 94-point DWA score.
This review is written by our own Hermen Jansen. The wines of Gérard Peirazeau & Fils are sold in the Netherlands and worldwide available through Best of Wines.
Price: €89,54
Taste Date: December 2024
Score: 94/100 DWA Score
Website: Gérard Peirazeau & Fils