Chefs & Cellars: Dining at Restaurant Onglet.
In the heart of the historic city of Maastricht, Restaurant Onglet is an unmissable destination for food and wine enthusiasts. Housed in a century-old former butcher shop, this restaurant not only pays homage to its location’s rich history but also redefines the dining experience with its focus on exceptional meat dishes and a meticulously curated wine program.
For our Podcast Chefs & Cellars, we sat down with owner Levy Smit to delve into the story behind Restaurant Onglet, his journey in the culinary world, and the wines that inspire him. Of course, we also enjoyed a remarkable tasting menu that showcased the restaurant’s unique ethos and the quality Chef Alan Oostrom, co-owner, and his team bring to the table.
A Butcher’s Legacy Turned Culinary Treasure
The story of Restaurant Onglet begins with its location. The building served as a butcher shop for over 110 years under the ownership of the Schürmann family. After the fourth generation decided to close the butchery, Levy and his business partners saw an opportunity to create something extraordinary: a restaurant that would preserve the spirit of the butchery while transforming it into a fine dining destination.
“Meat is at the heart of our menu,” says Levy. “We honor the heritage of this space by focusing on high-quality cuts, simple but bold flavors, and a story that connects our dishes to the building’s history.”
Even today, the butcher shop remains part of the experience. Guests are welcomed by displays of charcuterie and premium cuts, paired with a selection of wines—a perfect introduction to what awaits inside.
Meet Levy Smit: Entrepreneurial Spirit with a Passion for Wine
Levy’s journey into the culinary world began at an early age. With Indonesian roots, he recalls how food was always central to his family’s gatherings. “Food was the connector in every relationship,” he explains, a sentiment that inspired his first steps into hospitality as a teenager.
Over the years, Levy worked at some of Maastricht’s finest establishments, including the Michelin-starred Restaurant Tout-à-Fait and the iconic Hotel Beaumont, where his love for wine blossomed. “I was bitten by the wine bug,” he admits. This passion led him to eventually create Restaurant Onglet, together with Chef Alan Oostrom, with whom he worked at Tout-à-Fait
When asked to define his role, Levy says, “I’m not a chef or a sommelier. I’m an entrepreneur with a deep love for wine and a dedication to providing exceptional guest experiences.”
A Menu That Lets the Ingredients Shine
Restaurant Onglet’s set menu reflects a straightforward philosophy: focus on quality ingredients and let their natural flavors take center stage. Each dish is thoughtfully crafted by Chef Alan Oostrom and the kitchen brigade, with one to three key flavors that are bold yet harmonious.
Levy emphasizes, “We want our guests to enjoy the dishes without overthinking them. It’s about creating an experience that’s memorable and approachable.”
A standout dish that has become a signature at Onglet is the Brioche Pork Belly with Imperial Caviar and Langoustine Bisque. This innovative combination of bold flavors and textures embodies the restaurant’s creative spirit and dedication to quality.
The Wines of Restaurant Onglet
At Restaurant Onglet, the wine list is more than just a menu—it’s a curated journey through terroirs, vintages, and styles that reflect Levy’s personal passion and entrepreneurial vision. With over 320 labels and an ambition to expand to 500, the wine list is both impressive in scope and thoughtful in execution. Levy’s approach to wine selection is rooted in his belief that wine should surprise, delight, and complement the culinary experience, while also telling a story.
“Every wine on our list has a purpose,” Levy shares. “Whether it’s a classic Burgundy or a modern Spanish red, it needs to connect with our dishes and elevate the overall dining experience.”
The wine program at Onglet blends Old World classics with modern discoveries, offering guests a balanced mix of renowned producers and hidden gems. Burgundy and Bordeaux are well-represented, with a particular emphasis on small-scale producers who are pushing boundaries. At the same time, regions like Priorat, Alsace, and Oregon make their mark on the list, showcasing Levy’s enthusiasm for exploring new styles and introducing guests to underappreciated regions.
The list is not static. Levy works closely with a network of trusted importers, both Dutch and Belgian, to continuously refresh the selection. “Access to rare bottles is a privilege,” he says, “and it’s a testament to the relationships we’ve built with suppliers over the years. We want to bring something unique to the table—something you won’t find everywhere.”
During our visit, Levy guided us through a tasting of two exceptional wines that are featured on the restaurant’s ever-evolving list.
Wine 1: 2018 Côte de Nuits Villages Aux Montagnes, Domaine Camille Thiriet
This Burgundy red from a rising young producer exemplifies the vibrancy and elegance of Pinot Noir. With notes of ripe red fruits and a balanced acidity, it was the perfect pairing for Onglet’s rich and layered dishes. Levy describes it as being in its “sweet spot,” showcasing both fruit and development.
Wine 2: 2021 Planetes de Nin Classique, Priorat
A surprising choice from Spain’s Priorat region, this wine challenges traditional perceptions of Spanish reds. Made by Carles Ortiz, it features a fresh, elegant profile with vibrant acidity and restrained use of oak. Levy explains, “This wine is a revelation for guests who think Priorat wines are all about intensity and power.”
Both wines reflect Levy’s approach to wine selection: focus on quality, work closely with trusted importers, and introduce guests to unexpected gems.
A Menu to Remember
Our tasting menu at Onglet was nothing short of spectacular, each dish paired thoughtfully with wines that elevated the flavors.
1. Charcuterie with Fresh Bread
Paired with Champagne Lequien & Fils a Chavot | Brut Tradition NV
The meal began with a classic yet elevated offering of house-made charcuterie, served alongside fresh, crusty bread. The Champagne, with its lively effervescence and notes of green apple and toasted brioche, cut through the richness of the charcuterie, providing a refreshing counterpoint to the savory flavors. A perfect introduction to the evening.
2. Duck Leg Terrine with Duck Liver, Date Cream and Bramble
Paired with 2021 Zierfandler Anninger, Weingut Bernhard Stadlmann
This course was a harmonious blend of rich and sweet flavors. The duck leg terrine, layered with the velvety texture of duck liver, was lifted by the natural sweetness of the date cream and the tart brightness of the bramble. The pairing of the Zierfandler was inspired—its delicate acidity and subtle hints of stone fruit balanced the richness of the terrine while complementing the fruity elements of the dish.
3. Veal Tartare with Parsley Root Vinaigrette and Langoustine
Paired with 2021 Zierfandler Anninger, Weingut Bernhard Stadlmann
The next dish offered a stunning interplay of textures and flavors. The delicate veal tartare, complemented by the herbaceous parsley root vinaigrette, was given a luxurious twist with the addition of sweet, tender langoustine. The Zierfandler reappeared here, its fresh acidity and floral undertones accentuating the elegance of the dish without overpowering the nuanced flavors.
4. Cod with Sauerkraut and Bacon Sauce
Paired with 2018 Côte de Nuits Villages Aux Montagnes, Domaine Camille Thiriet
This dish brought a bold yet balanced approach to seafood. The flaky, perfectly cooked cod was paired with tangy sauerkraut and a rich bacon sauce, creating a unique contrast of flavors. The Côte de Nuits Villages from Domaine Camille Thiriet was an unconventional but brilliant pairing. Its vibrant red fruit notes and subtle earthiness complemented the richness of the sauce and provided a delicate contrast to the tangy sauerkraut.
5. Brioche Pork Belly with Imperial Caviar and Langoustine Bisque
Paired with 2019 Cabernet Franc, Stratus Wines
A signature dish at Onglet, this course showcased the restaurant’s creative flair. The buttery brioche provided a perfect foundation for the tender, flavorful pork belly, while the luxurious imperial caviar and langoustine bisque added layers of depth and indulgence. The 2019 Cabernet Franc from Stratus Wines brought just enough structure and freshness to the dish, with its ripe red fruit and herbaceous undertones balancing the rich flavors beautifully.
6. Black Angus Entrecote with Celeriac and Veal Gravy
Paired with 2015 Planots, Celler Cal Pla
The Black Angus entrecote was a showstopper, cooked to perfection and paired with earthy celeriac and a luscious veal gravy. The 2015 Planots from Celler Cal Pla, a Priorat wine, was a fitting companion. Its depth, with notes of black fruit, minerality, and a touch of spice, stood up to the bold flavors of the dish while enhancing the natural sweetness of the celeriac and the umami of the gravy.
7. Kaiserschmarren with Pear, Brown Butter and Quince
The meal concluded with a delightful nod to Austrian tradition. The Kaiserschmarren, a fluffy, caramelized pancake, was served with poached pear, nutty brown butter, and tart quince. While not paired with a specific wine during our meal, this dessert would harmonize beautifully with a glass of late-harvest Riesling or a lightly sweet dessert wine. Its balance of sweetness and acidity provided a perfect ending to the meal.
Every course in this tasting menu was thoughtfully designed to celebrate the quality of ingredients and the skill of the kitchen. The wine pairings elevated the experience further, creating a seamless harmony between food and drink that reflected Restaurant Onglet’s dedication to excellence. Whether it’s the playful creativity of the brioche pork belly or the elegance of the cod with sauerkraut, each bite and sip was a testament to the restaurant’s ethos: bold, simple flavors paired with a story.
The Future of Restaurant Onglet
Despite the challenges of the pandemic, Restaurant Onglet has thrived, thanks to its dedicated team and focus on creating a balanced work environment. Levy shares his vision for the future: expanding the wine list to 500 labels, creating a wine storage area for guests to admire, and perhaps opening a second location—possibly a wine bar.
“It’s about continuously evolving while staying true to our roots,” he says.
A Visit to Onglet
Restaurant Onglet is more than just a place to eat; it’s an experience that combines history, exceptional flavors, and a love for wine. Whether you’re a local or visiting Maastricht, this unique restaurant deserves a spot on your list. As Levy puts it, “Everyone is welcome—just make sure to book your table in advance!”
Chefs & Cellars, the Podcast
Levy is our guest on Episode 5 of our podcast, Chefs & Cellars, which is online now. Click here to learn more about his journey, insights into the world of wine, and what makes Restaurant Onglet a must visit on your next trip to Maastricht.
This article was written by Niels Aarts for Dutch Wine Apprentice. We would like to thank Levy Smit, Alan Oostrom and their teams at Restaurant Onglet for their time and hospitality.
Photo Credits: Restaurant Onglet, Guy Houben and Dutch Wine Apprentice.
