A Journey Through Barolo’s 2021 Vintage with G.D. Vajra.
“The more time goes by, the more I find analogies between wine and life” says Giuseppe Vaira, second generation winemaker at Barolo’s renowned winery G.D. Vajra. “The best friends are the ones who know how to listen, not just how to talk,” he continues. “Our wines do the listening.” Funnily enough, it is Giuseppe Vaira who seems a man born to talk. And we are happy to listen.
Between protest and the plow
“It all started with my father, Aldo Vaira, a passionate, rebellious kid. His heart today is very classy, but in younger years he tried to be a hippie.” This rebellious spirit shaped Vaira’s path and ultimately the future of the winery.
The moment of reckoning came during the protests of 1968, when Aldo Vaira found himself at odds with his family’s expectations. As Giuseppe recounts: “His revolution lasted about 24 hours. He went straight opposite from the army headquarters — where my grandfather worked — and was spotted by his father. He was sent back to the farm as a punishment, where he spent the summer and decided to fall in love with the life of the farm.”
Aldo Vaira’s decision to embrace farming came at a time when people in Italy were moving away from agriculture in search of better opportunities in the cities. “The family was not happy having a hippie son, but neither having a farmer son.” Aldo Vaira and his father made a deal. He was allowed to farm — under the condition of getting a college degree. And so it is that Vaira quickly becomes known as Il Professor, referring to his double life as a farmer and viticulture teacher.
Organic by nature, refined by choice
Influenced by Professor Francesco Garofalo, an organic pioneer in Italy, Aldo Vaira started organic farming in 1971. Today, G.D. Vajra holds its organic legacy close to its heart, with over 50 years of experience working with organically grown vines.
Vajra’s vineyards are perched high on the western hill halfway Barolo and La Morra. Giuseppe Vaira notes: “these higher positions once were risky, but now we feel it as a blessing.” Cooler nights encourage slower, more even ripening and preservation of the aromatics.
The philosophy of winemaking centers on balance and drinkability, right from the start. “You need a good base to get to a better place” says Vaira, emphasizing the importance of the texture of the tannins. We’re looking for silky tannins”. Over-exposure to oak and oxygen is out of question. As Viara puts it: “There is no coming back from oxidation”. He uses long macerations and soft extraction methods, under which the so-called submerged cap maceration – a method that ensures soft extraction of flavour and colour.
G.D. Vajra – Claré J.C. 2024
Inspired by a historical manuscript discovered in a dusty warehouse, Vajra’s Claré J.C. bridges a cap between the 17th century and today’s most vibrant expression of Nebbiolo. The book, written by a jeweller to the royal family, detailed winemaking techniques used for light Nebbiolo based wines. A style of Nebbiolo that history had nearly forgotten.
The original manuscript described a wine called “Chiaretto”—from chiaro, meaning pale. “We could not use that name,” Vaira explains, “because it is a DOC from Lago di Garda” – before smilingly adding: “and it’s hard to pronounce.” Early attempts to label the wine as “claret” prompted legal threats from Bordeaux, so a quick rebrand gave birth to the current name: “Claré,” a nod to clarity and lightness.
With vibrant aromatics and a lighter frame Claré J.C. 2024 reintroduces Nebbiolo as a wine for the midday table. This wine bursts with playful charm and an unmistakably fruit-forward character. Aromas of rosehip, red beet, and a hint of liquorice lend both brightness and earthy depth to the nose.
On the palate, it is smooth, juicy, and light-footed, with a subtle lactic touch that adds a gentle roundness and kindness to the mouthfeel. Fine acidity and a faint tingle make it fresh and invigorating—a wine that dances across the tongue and leaves you reaching for another sip.
DWA score: 91/100
G.D. Vajra – Barbera d’Alba 2024
The 2024 Barbera d’Alba of G.D. Vajra is a blend of fruit from six estate vineyards. “This wine is meant to be a joyful expression of Barbera, but there’s quite a bit of geological and microclimatic complexity behind it.”
A defining characteristic is its long skin contact, which ranges from 20 to 29 days. This method is central to Vaira’s vision. Rather than relying heavily on oak, Vaira uses extended skin contact. “Barbera can adopt oak more easily than most red grapes in Piedmont, but we prefer long skin contact to get more structure from the fruit itself”. Just 5 to 10% of the wine spends time in oak barrels.
This vibrant Barbera opens with inviting aromas of ripe dark fruit—blackberry and black cherry—lifted by notes of violet and a touch of liquorice.
On the palate, it displays pure, honest fruit with a core of juicy ripeness, yet remains bright and crunchy, offering a clean and refreshing mouthfeel. There is a subtle layer of spice and earth that adds depth without weighing it down.
The wine is supple and lean, striking a beautiful balance between comfort and freshness. Elegant in its simplicity, it delivers vibrant drinkability with a polished, fruit-driven finish.
DWA score: 91/100
Vintage 2021 in Barolo according to Vajra
Guiseppe Vaira summarizes the 2021 vintages in Barolo as follows: “2021 was a vintage where the weather was particularly challenging, but one that allowed us to make wines with complexity and freshness.” He shares three key elements defining the 2021 vintage in Barolo.
- Cooler circumstances during flowering: “Challenging conditions during flowering in 2021 tend towards smaller berries. This have led to more tannic concentration.”
- A dry august: “which means little potassium and nitrogen in the fruit. This translates to fresher wines, with higher acidity levels.”
- Late harvest, which Viara describes as “a blessing.” Slower maturations ensured balance and complexity.
G.D. Vajra – Barolo Coste di Rose 2021
Though nestled between the iconic vineyard of Cannubi and Bussia, Costa di Rose remains off the beaten path. Quit literally, as Vaira explains: “The only way to access Costa di Rose is by off-roading a bumpy little path. Once you arrive there, it is like stepping into a lost paradise — a small valley, almost untouched.”
Vaira pictures the essence of Costa di Rose in three words: “coast, sand, and low elevation.” Costa di Rose is a slope with a southeast orientation, characterized by the abundance of sand. We expect this land was once the shore of a tropical sea.” This sandy soil is a key element in shaping the aromatic profile of the wine. “The more sand, the more Nebbiolo expresses its red perfumes. Tannins become less protruding, less structured.”
The wine underwent 54 days skin contact, including about 30 days of submerged cap maceration, and then aged for 26 months in casks.
The 2021 Coste di Rose opens with aromatic layers of pure red fruit—raspberry, wild strawberry, and a touch of rose petal—wrapped in a perfumed and inviting bouquet. There is an openness and clarity to the nose that immediately draws you in.
On the palate, it is smooth and juicy, with vibrant, transparent fruit that unfolds in delicate, fruit-driven layers. A subtle, tingling freshness gives the wine energy and lift. The tannins are silky and ultra-fine, lending structure without weight.
Refined and graceful, this is a distinctly feminine Barolo — crystalline in its purity, with a long, clean finish that lingers with floral and mineral elegance.
DWA score: 95/100
G.D. Vajra – Ravera 2021
As we move to Ravera, the change in elevation and soil composition becomes apparent. “We go from 320 meters to about 350 meters above sea level,” Giuseppe Vaira begins, “and we transition from a sandy soil to one dominated by iron.” The soil is marl, with the presence of iron oxides.
“Ravera cannot be explained without a reference to the iron element in the soil,” says Vaira. “Iron to Nebbiolo is like a distortion pedal to a guitar,” he explains. “It gives a kick to the wine, a tension. It is like turning up the volume, adding power. That is the essence of Ravera.”
Another main element of Ravera’s identity is the shape of the hill. The amphitheatre shape helps trap heat in the afternoon. “Ravera tends to be a bit more intense on the nose,” Giuseppe notes. “On the palate the fruit gets slightly riper and juicier.”
The grapes were picked over three days— October 11th ,15th, and 16th — and underwent 55 days of submerged cap maceration. Ravera was aged for 26 months in cask before bottling.
The 2021 Ravera opens with earthy, brooding aromas of black truffle, liquorice, iron, incense, and a touch of dark spice. There is an unmistakable sense of seriousness and depth right from the nose—masculine and grounded.
On the palate, it delivers dark, dense fruit — black cherry, plum, and blackberry — wrapped in a framework of ripe, robust tannins and bright, cutting acidity. There is a muscular structure and raw energy here that feels almost explosive—rocking, unapologetically powerful, yet finely detailed. This is a Barolo of great structure and stamina, with immense aging potential. Its iron core and savoury complexity make it a wine for purists and collectors alike.
DWA score: 95/100
G.D. Vajra – Bricco delle Viole 2021
Brico delle Viole’s high elevation is one of its defining characteristics. The vineyard starts at 400 meters above sea level and climbs to 480 meters, making it the highest of the Vajra vineyards. This high-altitude position offers several advantages. It results in the earliest sunrise and the latest sunset, extending the daylight hours. And, as Giuseppe points out, “it also ensures cooler nights, preserving freshness and aromatics.”
The soil is of Brico delle Viole is Sant’Agata marl. Harvesting at Brico delle Viole is a complex process, owing to the varying ripening times of different parcels within the vineyard. The grapes for the 2021 vintage were harvested over five days: October 13th, 14th, 15th, 16th, and 18th. The wine underwent 51 days of submerged cap maceration and was bottled after aging for 24 months in cask.
The 2021 Bricco delle Viole opens with pure and lifted aromas of cherry, blood orange, rose petals, and dried flowers, all delicately laced with a hint of cinnamon. It immediately conveys grace and depth.
On the palate, the wine brings together all the element of Vajra’s philosophy —overdelivering in complexity while remaining impeccably refined. The fruit is both expansive and crystalline, with vivid juiciness and electric energy. A remarkable interplay of tension and elegance defines its character. The tannins are polished yet whisper-fine, providing structure without heaviness. Despite its depth and layering, the wine retains a lean, vibrant frame, finishing with a stunningly long and resonant aftertaste.
DWA score: 96/100
Luigi Baudana – Barolo Baudana 2021
The Luigi Baudana estate is a small but distinguished four-hectare property nestled in Serralunga d’Alba. “When the rumour spread that Luigi was considering retiring, we started a secret dating that lasted several months,” Giuseppe Vaira recounts. The deal allows to preserve the estate’s legacy without disrupting its carefully crafted history. As Giuseppe aptly puts it: “We’re not the new owners; we’re the guardians of their story.” True to this vision, G.D. Vajra continues to produce Barolo Baudana in the original cellar, keeping the Baudana name on the label.
The Baudana cru features two distinct geological formations: Tortonian and Serravallian soils. “The Tortonian soil imparts energy and vibrancy, while the Serravallian soil offers a more austere, spicy character,” Giuseppe Vaira explains. Harvested on October 14th, the wine was vinified with 42 days of submerged cap maceration and then aged for 23 months in cask.
The wine opens with a vivid bouquet of red fruits—cranberry and red cherry—interwoven with a touch of purple fruit, floral nuances, and a fine spiciness. A touch of menthol and a subtle hint of iron and blood add intrigue and depth to the aromatic profile.
On the palate, it is vibrantly energetic, highlighting transparent, focused red fruit like red currant and cranberry. The tannin structure is compact yet gripping — beautifully soft, well-integrated, and perfectly in tune with the wine’s light, graceful body. The finish is long and spiced, with lingering notes of bay leaf and rose, effortlessly balancing tension and finesse.
DWA score: 95/100
Conclusion
As our loyal readers will know, G.D. Vajra owns a special place in our hearts. After tasting vintage 2021, our love is reconfirmed and deepened further. The wines of G.D. Vajra are made to shine in balance, subtlety – and too often underestimated – drinking pleasure. Or as Vaira puts it: “The ultimate judge of wine is if the bottle is empty by the end of the meal.” We ensure no drop was left in any opened bottle…
This article is written by our own Hermen Jansen, Origine Wijnen. We thank Giuseppe Vaira for sharing his insights and Studio Cru for the invitation. G.D. Vajra is imported in the Netherlands by Delta Wines, and available through selected retail and hospitality partners.
