Château Ducru-Beaucaillou – 2019 La Croix Ducru-Beaucaillou
Red
France
Bordeaux, Saint-Julien
Bordeaux Red
Spiegelau Definition Bordeaux
50 EURO
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The 2021 Cepparello from Isole e Olena is a profound and highly refined expression of Sangiovese, capturing both the precision of a great vintage and the enduring philosophy of one of Tuscany’s benchmark estates. Produced exclusively from carefully selected Sangiovese grapes, Cepparello has long stood as a reference point for the grape’s capacity to combine structure, elegance, and aromatic depth.
The 2021 vintage, widely regarded as one of the finest in recent years, brings exceptional clarity and balance to the wine. It is a Cepparello of remarkable definition—where intensity never overshadows finesse, and where each component feels seamlessly integrated. Importantly, this release represents the last complete vintage crafted under the direction of Paolo De Marchi, marking the end of an era for the estate.
Isole e Olena is one of the historic pillars of Chianti Classico, located in the western reaches of the appellation near Barberino Val d’Elsa. The estate rose to international prominence under the leadership of Paolo De Marchi, whose vision helped redefine the potential of Sangiovese at a time when quality-driven innovation was reshaping Tuscany.
In 2022, the estate entered a new chapter when it was acquired by the EPI Group, owned by the Descours family. With this transition, continuity and respect for the estate’s identity remained central. Emanuele Reolon now leads as winemaker and estate manager, bringing both technical precision and a deep understanding of the estate’s philosophy.
The 2021 vintage stands as a symbolic bridge between generations. It is the final vintage fully overseen by Paolo De Marchi, who remained closely involved as an advisor until the end of 2023, working side by side with Reolon to ensure a seamless transition in both vineyard and cellar.
De Marchi’s approach has always been rooted in authenticity: a deep respect for terroir, a commitment to Sangiovese as Tuscany’s noble grape, and a meticulous attention to detail. Cepparello, first produced in 1980, became a landmark wine in the evolution of modern Italian winemaking—demonstrating that Sangiovese, when handled with precision, could rival the world’s great wines without the need for blending.
Today, the estate continues to uphold this philosophy, producing wines that emphasize purity, balance, and age-worthiness, while maintaining a distinctly Tuscan identity.
Cepparello is sourced from the estate’s best hillside vineyards, situated at elevations that provide optimal sun exposure while benefiting from cooling influences that preserve acidity and aromatic lift. The soils, composed primarily of galestro and alberese, are ideal for Sangiovese, contributing to the wine’s structure, minerality, and fine tannic profile.
The 2021 growing season offered near-ideal conditions: a balanced progression from budbreak to harvest, with warm days and cool nights ensuring slow, even ripening. This allowed for excellent phenolic maturity while maintaining freshness—key to achieving both power and elegance in Sangiovese.
The 2021 Cepparello presents itself with a deep ruby color, vibrant yet concentrated, hinting at both youth and potential longevity.
On the nose, the wine is immediately expressive and layered. Aromas of ripe red cherry, wild strawberry, and plum are complemented by notes of dried rose, violets, and subtle Mediterranean herbs. With aeration, more complex nuances emerge—tobacco leaf, cedar, graphite, and a delicate touch of spice—adding depth without overwhelming the fruit core.
The palate is precise and structured, yet remarkably polished. Fine-grained tannins frame the wine, providing grip and direction, while a lively acidity carries the fruit seamlessly across the palate. The balance is striking: ripe and generous, yet never heavy. A distinct mineral undertone runs through the mid-palate, enhancing both tension and clarity.
The finish is long, focused, and persistent, leaving impressions of red berries, savory spice, and a refined earthy note that lingers elegantly.
Conclusion
The 2021 Cepparello by Isole e Olena is a masterful expression of Sangiovese—combining purity, structure, and finesse in a way that few wines consistently achieve. It reflects both the excellence of the vintage and a pivotal moment in the estate’s history, where legacy and future direction meet seamlessly.
While already impressively harmonious in its youth, this wine clearly possesses the structure and balance for long-term ageing. It will reward patience over the next 15 to 20 years, gaining further complexity while retaining its vibrant core.
We award this wine a 97-point DWA score—an outstanding, terroir-driven Sangiovese that stands among the finest expressions of Tuscany today.
Earlier we published a review of the 2020 Cepparello, along with some other wines from Isole e Olena and an interview with Paolo De Marchi. Click below to read these.
This review is written by our own Niels Aarts. Isole e Olena and its wines are available through our partner Total Grand Cru, and can be bought in their online shop.
Price: €94,38
Taste Date: March 2026
Website: Isole e Olena
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