Domaine de Pallus – 2017 La Rougerie

Domaine de Pallus – 2017 La Rougerie.

The 2017 La Rougerie from Domaine de Pallus is a striking and deeply expressive interpretation of Cabernet Franc from Chinon—one that confidently positions itself at the very top of the appellation. Crafted by Bertrand Sourdais, this cuvée is conceived as the flagship of the estate, and it shows in both its structure and its precision.

From the first impression, the wine conveys a sense of seriousness and intent: a refined yet powerful Loire red that balances density with remarkable elegance. It is a wine that speaks not only of careful winemaking, but of a clear vision—one where Chinon is elevated to a level often associated with the great terroirs of France.

About the Winery

Domaine de Pallus is led by Bertrand Sourdais, a winemaker whose international experience—particularly in Spain—has significantly shaped his approach to Cabernet Franc in the Loire. Returning to his family roots in Chinon, Sourdais has focused on redefining the potential of the appellation through meticulous vineyard work and a precise, terroir-driven philosophy.

His style leans toward structure, depth, and ageing potential, often drawing comparisons to more classical fine wine regions. Fermentations are carefully managed, extractions are deliberate, and élevage—frequently in Burgundian barrels—is used not to dominate, but to refine and frame the fruit. The result is a portfolio of wines that combine Loire freshness with a more architectural, almost grand cru-inspired dimension.

About the Vineyard

La Rougerie is sourced from two distinct parcels situated on pure clay soils—an essential factor in shaping the wine’s identity. Clay, in this context, provides both power and water retention, allowing for consistent ripening and lending the wine its depth and structural backbone.

The vineyard is planted with massal selections dating back to 1952, alongside younger plantings from 2007 at higher density. This combination contributes to both concentration and nuance, merging the complexity of old vines with the vibrancy of younger material. The site itself is considered by Sourdais as the pinnacle of his holdings—a “grand cru” expression within Chinon.

About the Wine

The 2017 vintage presents itself with a deep, dark red hue, hinting at both concentration and maturity. Aromatically, the wine is layered and intense, revealing a complex interplay of dark berries, ripe red fruit, and a distinctive savory character. Subtle floral tones and finely integrated oak nuances—derived from 18 months in Burgundian barrels—add further depth without overshadowing the varietal purity.

On the palate, La Rougerie is full-bodied and textural, yet remarkably poised. The tannins are firm and structured, providing a framework that supports the wine’s richness without compromising its elegance. There is a clear sense of precision here: fruit, acidity, and tannin are all finely calibrated, resulting in a wine that feels both powerful and controlled.

A vibrant freshness runs through the core, lifting the darker fruit profile and enhancing the wine’s overall balance. The finish is long and mineral-driven, leaving a lasting impression of purity, tension, and quiet intensity.

Conclusion

The 2017 La Rougerie stands as a compelling argument for the highest potential of Cabernet Franc in Chinon. It is a wine of depth, structure, and refinement—combining Loire typicity with a more ambitious, almost grand cru-like expression.

At this stage, the wine is already highly engaging, though its firm structure and underlying freshness suggest further development in bottle. Over the coming years, additional complexity and tertiary nuance are likely to emerge, rewarding those with patience.

We award this wine a 93-point DWA score—a powerful yet elegant Chinon that reflects both the vision of Bertrand Sourdais and the remarkable potential of its terroir.

This review is written by our own Niels Aarts. Domaine de Pallus and their wines are available through our partner Total Grand Cru, and can be bought in their online shop.

Price:               €83,49

Taste Date:     April 2026

Website:         Domaine de Pallus