Domaine Robert Groffier: Crafting Burgundy’s Timeless Elegance.
In the heart of Burgundy, the legacy of Domaine Robert Groffier spans nearly two centuries, encapsulating the essence of meticulous winemaking and dedication to the land. During a recent visit and tasting with Nicolas Groffier, the current steward of this venerable estate, we explored the intricate history, philosophy, and remarkable wines that define Domaine Robert Groffier.
A Rich Heritage
Situated in Morey-Saint-Denis, the Groffier estate has maintained its vineyards through generations, preserving plots that have been in the family for almost 200 years. The domaine’s origins date back to Frédéric Groffier in the 19th century, with significant expansions in the 1930s under Robert Groffier. Nicolas Groffier, who has managed the estate since 2005, speaks with reverence about his ancestors’ work, particularly his grandfather’s pivotal decision in the 1960s to start bottling their own wine. This move marked a significant evolution, opening doors to international markets and establishing their reputation globally. Today, the Groffier wines are enjoyed from Japan and the USA to Mauritius and Cuba, showcasing Burgundy’s allure worldwide.
The Philosophy of Singular Excellence
Burgundy’s allure lies in its complexity and the singularity of each wine, a philosophy deeply ingrained in the Groffier approach. Nicolas emphasizes that understanding Burgundy requires an appreciation for its varied terroirs. “If you love singularity, you love Burgundy,” he explains, highlighting the estate’s commitment to producing wines that are distinct and true to their origins. Each plot, each bottle, tells a unique story shaped by the soil, climate, and meticulous care. The Groffier family owns some of the most beautiful crus in Burgundy, including three fantastic Chambolle-Musigny premier cru fields: Les Haut-Doix, Sentiers, and Amoureuses. They also possess more than one hectare of Bonnes-Mares and several rows within the Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru’s.
A Modern Evolution
Nicolas Groffier has gradually refined the estate’s winemaking style. While the wines have always been known for their concentration, thanks to extremely low yields, Nicolas has introduced greater elegance, balance, and finesse. He selectively destems grapes and has reduced the percentage of new oak used in recent harvests. The 2018 vintage, for example, was exceptionally successful, receiving jubilant praise and scores as high as 98 points. This vintage affirmed Domaine Groffier’s place among Burgundy’s elite.
The Groffier estate spans 8 hectares and is committed to sustainable agriculture. The soils, a blend of limestone and clay-limestone, support old vines, many over 40 years old, planted in prime locations. This combination of sustainable practices and attention to vine health contributes significantly to the quality and uniqueness of Groffier wines.
The Wines: A Tasting Experience
During our visit, we tasted three exceptional wines from the 2022 vintage: the Bourgogne Rouge, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Haut-Doix, and Gevrey Grand Cru Chambertin Clos de Bèze. Each wine offered a glimpse into the Groffier legacy and the meticulous care that goes into every bottle.
2022 Bourgogne Rouge
Bottled in mid-December, just before vineyard pruning begins, the 2022 Bourgogne Rouge serves as the “card of visit” for Domaine Robert Groffier. Crafted with precision to reflect the estate’s signature style at an accessible price, this wine shows exceptionally well, with two-thirds of the fruit sourced from vineyards below the Clos de Vougeot.
The wine is destemmed and aged largely in one-year-old barrels, contributing to its glowing purple color and pure, concentrated bouquet. Although the bouquet shows significant volume of fruit, it is tightly wound and not yet fully expressive. This concentration continues on the palate, accented by a spicy note.
The palate is well-balanced with fine tannins, offering crisp, pure fruit and an elegant finish. This wine is quite delicious, featuring a crunchy and vibrant character while still carrying plenty of fruit and weight for its category. The mid-palate is plush and caressing, initially inviting but quickly closing up as notes of spice and earth move forward, causing the fruit to recede slightly.
This Bourgogne Rouge is vibrant and enticing, displaying a crunchy character that will benefit from some time in the cellar to fully develop its potential. Although currently somewhat reserved, it promises to evolve into something worthwhile with time. It stands out as a beautiful Bourgogne Rouge, balancing crisp, pure fruit with an elegant, delicious finish.
Characterized by its competitive quality, this 2022 Bourgogne Rouge offers a promising introduction to the Groffier wines.
We reward this Bourgogne Rouge with a 89/100 DWA score.
2022 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Haut-Doix
This wine exemplifies the minerality and elegance of Chambolle-Musigny, renowned for crafting the Côte de Nuits’ most refined wines. With a northeast exposition and clear, sandy soil, Les Haut-Doix produces a wine that is always drinkable and approachable, showcasing a balanced structure and refined minerality. Nicolas describes it as “gentil” – a gentle wine that consistently performs well, offering pleasure from the moment it is opened.
Thanks to its active chalk and lighter clay soils, Chambolle-Musigny produces wines that are lighter in color and less tannic than those from Gevrey-Chambertin, yet offer a sublime concentration of fruit.
The 2022 Les Haut-Doix showcases this elegance through a bright crimson ruby hue. In the nose there is a hint of white pepper, indicative of whole bunch fermentation, complemented by vibrant red cherry aromas. Complex notes of wild mint and fennel enhance the bouquet, while a hint of grapefruit adds a refreshing touch to the finish. On the palate, it is medium-bodied with fine tannins, exhibiting freshness and focus. While it may lack a bit of grip and substance initially, the ample tension promises graceful aging, allowing it to develop further complexity and style over time.
We reward this Premier Cru with a 93/100 DWA score.
2022 Gevrey Grand Cru Chambertin Clos de Bèze
The Clos de Bèze Grand Cru, located in Gevrey, is renowned for its exceptional terroir characterized by well-drained limestone and marl soils. Situated on a gentle slope, this vineyard benefits from optimal sun exposure, crucial for the ripening of grapes. The unique combination of soil composition and microclimate contributes to the wine’s complexity, elegance, and depth of flavors.
Groffier’s take on the Clos de Bèze is highly regarded for its elegance, complexity, and aging potential, typically exhibiting aromas of red berries, cherries, violets, and earthy notes, with a nuanced palate that showcases the characteristics of the terroir. The wines stand as a testament to the Groffier family’s dedication to quality.
With only 0.5 hectares of this prestigious vineyard, the Clos de Bèze is made from 100-year-old vines, entirely whole cluster fermented, and aged in new oak. This results in a dense, sweet wine with a complex structure that can be enjoyed immediately but also holds the potential for aging.
This fresh 2022 reveals a deep red color and cool, precise aromas of cherry, rose petal, iron, and smoke. On the palate, it is supple, youthful, and compellingly perfumed, with very pure flavors of black cherry, smoke, and mint. Harmonious acidity gives the wine brilliant definition and class. This wine embodies the elegance, complexity, and depth that Clos de Bèze is celebrated for, ensuring it will be a standout addition to any collection.
We reward this Grand Cru with a 98/100 DWA score.
The Art of Winemaking
Nicolas Groffier’s approach to winemaking is both traditional and innovative. He works closely with his wife and a small team, emphasizing hands-on care for each vine. This dedication is reflected in the wines’ quality and the personalized touch that defines the Groffier style. The use of whole cluster fermentation and new oak is carefully balanced to maintain the wines’ freshness and complexity. The winemaking process involves transferring destemmed grapes to stainless steel vats without crushing, allowing natural yeast fermentation to start after a few days. This method extracts color and flavor, with maceration lasting up to 20 days before aging in oak barrels.
A Global Perspective
Despite their deep roots in Burgundy, the Groffiers are open to exploring and learning from other wine regions. Nicolas appreciates the diversity and hard work of small winemakers worldwide, always seeking to understand different styles and approaches. This openness enriches their winemaking, allowing them to innovate while staying true to their heritage.
Conclusion
Domaine Robert Groffier Père & Fils represents the pinnacle of Burgundy’s winemaking tradition. With a legacy built on dedication, meticulous care, and a deep understanding of the terroir, their wines offer a unique and gratifying experience. As the world of wine continues to evolve, the Groffiers remain committed to their roots, ensuring that each bottle carries the story of their land and their family.
For wine lovers and connoisseurs, exploring the wines of Domaine Robert Groffier Père & Fils is a journey into the heart of Burgundy, where tradition and excellence are intertwined in every sip.
If you are interested in the wines of Domaine Groffier, you can check out Crurated and become a member of their wine club. They give you the opportunity to regularly buy a selection of the Groffier wines, with guaranteed authenticy, sourced straight from the Domaine. More information on Crurated can be found in this article we wrote earlier.
This article has been written by our Niels Aarts, after a visit and personal interview with Nicolas Groffier, in cooperation with Crurated. We would like to thank Nicolas and Crurated for their contribution to this article.
