Le Macchiole: Innovation and Sustainability in Bolgheri.
Situated in the heart of the Bolgheri region along Tuscany’s coast, Le Macchiole stands as a beacon of innovation, resilience, and craftsmanship in winemaking. At a recent winemaker’s lunch hosted by importer (and retailer) Best of Wines at the picturesque Restaurant de Lage Vuursche, Gianluca Putzolu, Sales Director of Le Macchiole, offered an intimate glimpse into the estate’s journey from humble beginnings to becoming a trailblazer in Bolgheri. Guests savored the estate’s wines, including rare older vintages, while learning about its unique approach to viticulture and sustainability.
The Birth of a Vision: A New Chapter for Bolgheri
Le Macchiole’s origins date back to 1983, when Eugenio Campolmi, a visionary young winemaker, purchased a modest parcel of land from the Antinori family. At the time, Bolgheri was far from a renowned wine region, known instead for its challenging swampy terrain that had only been converted into arable land in the 19th century. Despite this, Campolmi saw potential in the region’s coastal terroir, envisioning it as a hub for quality viticulture.
Initially, Le Macchiole experimented with a diverse array of grape varieties, including native Sangiovese and Vermentino alongside international varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah. Bolgheri at the time lacked the structured traditions of other Italian wine regions, giving Campolmi the freedom to innovate and shape the estate’s identity through rigorous experimentation and a focus on quality.
A Turning Point: Pioneering Single-Varietal Wines
The late 1980s marked a transformative period for Le Macchiole. Eugenio Campolmi began to refine his vision, concentrating on single-varietal wines to showcase the unique qualities of each grape. In 1989, the estate introduced Paleo Rosso, initially a Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese blend. Over time, Paleo evolved into a pure Cabernet Franc wine, a daring move that set it apart in a region dominated by blends.
The 1990s saw the addition of two iconic wines to Le Macchiole’s portfolio: Messorio, a 100% Merlot, and Scrio, a 100% Syrah. These wines not only reflected the estate’s commitment to excellence but also highlighted the adaptability of Bolgheri’s terroir to international varietals. By the early 2000s, Le Macchiole had established itself as a leader in the region, but tragedy struck in 2002 with the passing of Eugenio Campolmi.
Cinzia Merli, Eugenio’s wife, took the reins during this challenging period. Despite her initial lack of winemaking experience, Cinzia’s determination and vision revitalized the estate. She transformed Le Macchiole into a professionally managed winery while preserving the innovative spirit that defined its early years.
Sustainability: A Core Value
Le Macchiole has long been at the forefront of sustainable viticulture. Over 20 years ago, the estate embraced organic farming practices and began addressing the challenges posed by climate change. Today, Le Macchiole employs innovative strategies such as altering vineyard density, reorienting vines, and introducing bush vines to mitigate the effects of increased sunlight and heat. These efforts ensure that the estate remains true to Bolgheri’s unique terroir while enhancing the quality and longevity of its wines.
A Journey Through the Wines
The winemaker’s lunch at Restaurant de Lage Vuursche provided an in-depth exploration of Le Macchiole’s diverse range of wines. Each bottle told a story of the estate’s dedication to excellence, from recent releases to rare older vintages that demonstrated their remarkable aging potential.
Le Macchiole Bolgheri Rosso 2021
This vibrant blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah offers a fresh and approachable introduction to the estate’s style. On the nose, it reveals notes of ripe red berries, black cherries, and subtle spice. The palate is well-balanced with soft tannins, a lively acidity, and hints of crushed herbs, making it a versatile wine for both casual and refined pairings.
We award this wine with a 92-point DWA score.
Paleo Bianco 2021
A rare gem from Bolgheri, this white wine is crafted from Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. It captivates with aromas of citrus blossoms, green apple, and a touch of flint. On the palate, it is crisp yet creamy, with a mineral-driven finish that reflects the coastal terroir.
We award this wine with a 94-point DWA score.
Paleo Rosso 2019
A pure expression of Cabernet Franc, Paleo Rosso is both elegant and powerful. Gianluca Putzolu described it as a wine that marries richness with balance. “Cabernet Franc finds its ideal home in Bolgheri,” he shared, highlighting the region’s unique combination of rich soils and a climate that encourages ripeness without excessive herbaceousness. The 2019 vintage boasts aromas of blackberry, graphite, and violets, leading into a structured palate of dark fruit, tobacco, and subtle spice. Silky tannins and a long, refined finish make this wine a true standout.
We award this wine with a 96-point DWA score.
Scrio 2017
Le Macchiole’s 100% Syrah showcases the grape’s intensity and complexity. Gianluca explained that Scrio is a bold representation of Syrah’s potential in Bolgheri, emphasizing its powerful yet elegant profile. The 2017 vintage opens with aromas of black pepper, blueberry, and smoked meat. On the palate, it is rich and full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a lingering finish of dark chocolate and savory spices.
We award this wine with a 97-point DWA score.
Messorio 2018
A masterpiece of 100% Merlot, Messorio 2018 is a wine of exceptional depth and finesse. The nose reveals layers of plum, blackcurrant, and cedar, while the palate unfolds with opulent flavors of dark fruit, mocha, and a hint of truffle. Its velvety texture and precise balance promise great aging potential. Gianluca highlighted the meticulous care taken in crafting Messorio, describing it as a wine that embodies the essence of Bolgheri’s terroir.
We award this wine with a 97-point DWA score.
Messorio 2008
This mature vintage of Messorio is a testament to the estate’s ability to craft age-worthy wines. The bouquet is complex, with notes of dried figs, leather, and forest floor. On the palate, it retains its vibrant core of dark fruit, complemented by tertiary flavors of tobacco and earthy spices. A beautifully integrated wine, it lingers with an elegant, savory finish.
“While modern consumers often drink wines young, our focus is on creating expressions that evolve gracefully,” Gianluca emphasized. Each of these wines illustrates the estate’s philosophy of crafting wines that capture both the essence of the Bolgheri terroir and the passage of time.
We award this wine with a 96-point DWA score.
Le Macchiole Today: A Model of Resilience and Excellence
Under Cinzia Merli’s leadership, Le Macchiole has grown its vineyards to 32 hectares and doubled its production to approximately 200,000 bottles annually. The estate exports 75% of its wines to over 50 countries, with major markets including the United States, Switzerland, Japan, and Germany. Despite its global reach, Le Macchiole remains deeply connected to its roots in Bolgheri, continuously striving to innovate while preserving its heritage.
The estate’s commitment to quality is reflected in its meticulous vineyard practices, which prioritize viticulture as the cornerstone of winemaking. With a dedicated team of 20 vineyard workers, Le Macchiole ensures that every bottle represents the best of what Bolgheri has to offer.
A Legacy of Innovation and Passion
Le Macchiole’s dedication to single-varietal winemaking has redefined expectations in Bolgheri, a region traditionally celebrated for its blends. By daring to focus on individual grape expressions, the estate has carved out a distinctive identity, setting benchmarks for innovation and quality in Tuscany.
The winemaker’s lunch, organized by Best of Wines, celebrated not only the estate’s remarkable wines but also its enduring spirit and vision. Each bottle served as a reminder of Le Macchiole’s role as a pioneer in Bolgheri, showcasing the depth and diversity achievable through single-varietal wines.
As Bolgheri continues to evolve, Le Macchiole remains at the forefront, proving that true innovation comes from honoring tradition while daring to forge new paths. Blending the region’s rich heritage with a forward-thinking approach, the estate continues to craft wines that captivate both the palate and the imagination.
This article is written by our own Niels Aarts. Le Macchiole is imported and sold in the Netherlands by Best of Wines. We would like to thank Best of Wines and Le Macchiole for the great afternoon, and Restaurant de Lage Vuursche for the excellent lunch.
