Le Clos du Caillou – Young Energy from Old Vines.
New sounds are heard in the southern Rhône valley. Melancholic baroque melodies are fading away and new modern songs are sung. Songs about levity and liveliness. One of the finest modern southern Rhône based songwriters might be Le Clos du Caillou. Our Hermen visits this Châteauneuf-du-Pape star and talks to Marilou Vacheron.
Young Energy and Sandy Soils
We meet Marilou Vacheron (1994) on a sunny spring morning. Marilou runs Le Clos du Caillou together with her family. Clos du Caillou is located in Courthézon, the northeastern part of the Châteauneuf appellation. Do not except the well-known Galets Roulés – the rounded heat absorbing pebbles – here. Soils are mostly sandy. Initiates know sandy soils can bring forth some of the best Châteauneuf wines. We just mention Chateau Rayas – the direct neighbor of Clos du Caillou.
Deep Roots and Intriguing Stories
Le Clos du Caillou is powered by young energy and founded on deep roots. The domain is created in 1895 as a hunting preserve, which in fact led to exclusion of the domain’s walled parcel from the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation. Whereas the appellation’s mapmakers were not enabled to peek behind the domain’s walls, they had no choice but foreclosing this ‘Clos’ parcel from the appellation. For this reason, the wines from inside the wall are declared as AOC Côtes-du-Rhône. In fact, wines as Côtes-du-Rhône ‘Les Quartz’ and Côtes-du-Rhône ‘La Reserve’ are Châteauneufs on Côtes-du-Rhône price levels.
Familiar Bonds and Endless Dedication
We move over to 1996. Sylvie Pouizin and Jean-Denis Vacheron – together with their children Marilou (2) and Axel (0) – move over from Sancerre to Clos du Caillou to continue Sylvie’s’ father’s work. Step by step, Jean-Denis takes Clos du Caillou to great heights. When Jean-Denis passes away in 2002, Sylvie brings aboard the talented winemaker Bruno Gaspard. Nowadays the family tasks are divided. Where Marilou handles management and sales, her partner Antoine Robert and her brother Axel together with Bruno take care of viticulture and winemaking.
In terms of viticulture a natural approach seems to part of the DNA of Clos du Caillou. Whereas his ancestors already worked close to nature, Jean-Denis Vacheron started the organic agriculture in 1996 and the estate is certified in 2010. Since 2007 they also work by the principals of biodynamic agriculture. In terms of winemaking, it is impossible to ignore the ultra-modern, spotless and well-equipped cellar. Stainless steel tanks are used for the vinification of the whites and rose wine. Cement and wooden tanks for the vinification of the reds. Aging finds place in foudres, demi-muids or barrels. We even find a couple of amphorae.
Uncompromising Expansion
In 2020 the Vacherons get the opportunity to buy nearby Domaine La Panisse. The 33-acre domain is in good condition but lacks progeny. Marilou explains several important Châteauneuf families have set their sights on enlisting the domain. La Panisse however is sold to Marilou and her brother, for no other reason than their youthful energy and durable philosophy. Domaine La Panisse suits perfectly within the concept and ideology of the Vacherons. La Panisse is located close to Clos du Caillou. Similar grapes as Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault – mostly old vines – are grown on mostly sandy soils.
The Vacherons strive a terroir driven way of winemaking. All the wines of Clos du Caillou are made from designated plots. From the sandy soils come the Côtes-du-Rhône Le Caillou and Reserve. The Bouquet des Garrigues cuvées are composed out of sandy soils with stony or clayey subsoils. Wines like the Côtes-du-Rhône and Châteauneuf-du-Pape Safres come from more compact sandstone subsoils (‘Safres’) and Côtes-du-Rhône and Châteauneuf-du-Pape Quartz from sandy soils with rounded quartz stones.
The Wines
We tasted a representative selection of the assortment of both Le Clos du Caillou and Domaine de Panisse. Please find our tasting notes en scores below.
2023 Le Clos du Caillou – Cotes-du-Rhône ‘Le Bouquet des Garriques’ Blanc
Grenache Blanc, Pink Clairette, Viognier, Roussanne and Bourboulenc | Sandy soil, clay and pebbles | Vinification in stainless steel.
Fresh citrus and tree fruits, pear, white peach and a touch of flowers and green herbs. Clean, juicy, round and soft with good concentration and a long persistent aftertaste.
We award this wine with a 92-point DWA score.
2023 Le Clos du Caillou – Cotes-du-Rhône La Réserve Blanc
Pink Clairette | Sandy soils with pebbles inside the Clos | Fermentation in stainless steel and demi-muid | 4 months aging stainless steel and demi-muid.
Peach, spicy, tangerine. Soft, full-bodied, broad, rich, gentle and concentrated fruit flavours, well-structured, great length.
We award this wine with a 93-point DWA score.
2021 Le Clos du Caillou – Cotes-du-Rhône ‘Le Bouquet des Garriques’ Rouge
Grenache Noir, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Carignan and Counoise | Clay soil with round pebbles from Le Coudoulet and Les Garrigues | Partly Carbonic Maceration | Fermentation in concrete | 14 months aging in concrete and foudre.
Open, fruit forward, jammy and slightly flowery. Supple, ripe, velvet, juicy and highly enjoyable.
We award this wine with a 90-point DWA score.
2022 Domaine de Panisse – Cotes-du-Rhône Le Mazet Rouge
Syrah and Grenache | Clay and limestone | Vinification in concrete and Foudre | 14 months aging in demi-muid and barrel.
Black pepper, coffee, dark fruit, bramble, herbal. Compact, well-structured, dark concentrated fruits, silky, ripe tannins, long persisting herbal aftertaste.
We award this wine with a 91-point DWA score.
2022 Le Clos du Caillou – Cotes-du-Rhône ‘Les Quartz’ Rouge
Grenache and Syrah | Sandy soils with quartzite rolled pebble inside the Clos | Fermentation in concrete | 14 months aging in barrel and foudre.
Lovely red fruit, sweet cherry, strawberry and herbal touch. Succulent fruit, sweet cherry, red and blue berries and a touch of baking spices. Juicy and comfortable with an uplifting and elegant freshness.
We award this wine with a 92-point DWA score.
2022 Le Clos du Caillou – Cotes-du-Rhône La Réserve Rouge
Grenache Noir and Mourvèdre | Sandy soil inside the Clos | Fermentation in concrete | 14 months aging in demi-muid and barrel.
La Réserve Rouge offers value for money. Beautiful gentle and pure fruit. refined yet powerful structure, elegant, power, catchy, accessible, great length.
We award this wine with a 94-point DWA score.
2023 Le Clos du Caillou – Châteauneuf-du-Pape ‘Les Safres’ Blanc
Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and Clairette Blanc | Sand and Safres from Les Bédines | Fermentation in used barrels | 4 months aging in used barrel.
Pure and honest white fruit flavours, honey, saline, touch of wood. Juicy and clean fruit, soft, round, full bodied, elegant acids, great power and structure. White fruits and herbs in a long-lasting aftertaste.
We award this wine with a 94-point DWA score.
2022 Le Clos du Caillou – Châteauneuf-du-Pape ‘Les Safres’ Rouge
Grenache and Syrah | Sandy soils with pebbles, Les Cassanets, next to Rayas | Fermentation in concrete | 14 months aging in foudre.
Expressive, sweet cherry, strawberry, floral, herbal. Intense, sensible power, energetic, seductive sweet cherry, grippy texture, persistent.
We award this wine with a 94-point DWA score.
2022 Domaine de Panisse – Châteauneuf-du-Pape Le Mas Rouge
Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah and Cinsault | Variation of soils | Fermentation in oak cask | 16 months aging in foudre.
Open, fruit forward and floral bouquet. Powerful and mouth filling, full bodied, well structured, ripe fruits, cracking acids, long lasting.
We award this wine with a 94-point DWA score.
2022 Le Clos du Caillou – Châteauneuf-du-Pape ‘Les Quartz’ Rouge
Grenache and Syrah | Sandy soils with pebbles, Les Cassanets | Fermentation in large wooden cask | 15 months aging in demi-muid and barrel.
Elegant and aromatic pure red fruits, wild sweet cherry, green herbs. Lush, broad, captivating, deep mineral core, touch of vanilla and liquorice. Clean long-lasting aftertaste.
We award this wine with a 95-point DWA score.
2015 Le Clos du Caillou – Châteauneuf-du-Pape ‘La Reserve’ Rouge
Grenache and Mourvèdre | Sandy soils, La Guigasse and Pignan | Fermentation in wooden tank | 14 months aging in demi-muid, partly new.
Incredible complex bouquet, showing flavours like matured fruits, spices, tobacco and cigar box. Velvety, silky, smooth, sweet spices, clove, multi-layered, filling, incredible length. Outstanding wine!
We award this wine with a 96-point DWA score.
Conclusion
Fresh wind blows through the Southern Rhône valley. Melancholic baroque melodies are fading away and new modern songs are sung. Songs about levity and liveliness. The family Vacheron show levity and liveliness should not be confused to simplicity. The wines of Le Clos du Caillou and Domaine de Panisse are singing about nature. They are singing about terroir. When you hear the voice of nature and feel the vibrance of the terroir, nothing more is needed and everything more seems meaningless.
This article is written by our own Hermen Jansen. The wines of Le Clos du Caillou and Domaine Panisse are imported in the Netherlands by Les Genereux and sold by their affiliated retail partners.
