Capensis Wines: The Soul of South Africa’s Western Cape.
Amidst the richness of South Africa’s winemaking regions, Capensis Wines represents the perfect blend of legacy, talent, and ambition. Under the leadership of Jackson Family Wines, Capensis was launched with a singular focus: to showcase the potential of South African Chardonnay. Spearheading this venture is the remarkably talented winemaker Graham Weerts, a South African native whose journey in winemaking has spanned continents and brought him to the forefront of the international wine industry.
Recently we sat down with Graham and tasted his Chardonnay wines, along with two additions from his latest project, Dalkeith Wines.
The Origins of Graham Weerts and Capensis
Weerts’ winemaking story began, as many do, with a chance opportunity. Straight out of high school, he took a Gap year that introduced him to the world of vineyards and wineries. Initially drawn to the agricultural side of things, Weerts found himself working in a South African vineyard and then quickly transitioning into the winery, sparking a passion that would set the course for his career. After spending time honing his skills in South Africa and later in Bordeaux, Weerts eventually moved to California, where he made wine for some of the most esteemed labels, including Verité, part of the Jackson Family Wines portfolio.
Weerts’ return to South Africa, however, marked the birth of Capensis in 2012. The project was driven by the vision of Barbara Banke, the proprietor of Jackson Family Wines, to create world-class Chardonnay that could rival any in the world, using the unique terroir of South Africa.
During our meeting, Weerts fondly recounts the inception of the Capensis project, highlighting how a spontaneous idea transformed into a dedicated pursuit of sourcing the finest Chardonnay blocks from across the Western Cape. With a nod to the ethos of Jackson Family Wines, Capensis was built from the ground up, starting with the careful selection of grapes and vineyards rather than relying on an existing estate.
Sourcing South Africa’s Best Chardonnay
From the outset, Weerts and his team took a meticulous, almost exploratory approach to sourcing grapes. As Weerts describes, he spent months “prospecting” for the best Chardonnay blocks throughout the Western Cape. His travels led him to remote, high-altitude vineyards (such as the Kaaimansgat vineyard in the Elandskloof) in regions such as Stellenbosch, Robertson, and Barrydale, here the unique combination of soil, elevation, and climate produced exceptional fruit. This method of blending grapes from different regions provided Capensis with a distinctive edge, allowing the wines to express a complexity and depth that would be difficult to achieve from a single vineyard.
One key vineyard that has become the backbone of Capensis is Fijnbosch, located in the Stellenbosch region. Fijnbosch plays a crucial role in the final blend of the wines, offering a core of purity and balance that defines Capensis Chardonnay.
A Unique Approach to Blending and Aging
Capensis represents a departure from the traditional approach of single-vineyard Chardonnay. Weerts’ philosophy is more about capturing the essence of the entire Western Cape, creating a mosaic of the region’s finest terroirs. In our interview, Weerts explained that Capensis blends carefully selected parcels of Chardonnay from across these vineyards, resulting in a wine that he feels is superior to any single-vineyard expression he has encountered.
Another hallmark of Capensis is the extended post-barrel aging in stainless steel tanks, a technique Weerts adapted from the Burgundy region. This method, which was implemented starting with the 2018 vintage, allows the wine to harmonize and develop additional layers of complexity before bottling, offering a more integrated and balanced final product.
Dalkeith: A Project of Friends
Although Capensis is deeply rooted in Chardonnay, Weerts’ expertise extends to Dalkeith, another project under Jackson Family Wines, focused on Chenin Blanc and Syrah. Born from a casual conversation with close friends Adi and Hein Badenhorst, Dalkeith embodies Weerts’ bold approach to winemaking, highlighting the potential of Chenin and Syrah from South Africa’s Swartland region.
Dalkeith’s grapes are sourced from two specific vineyards owned by Adi Badenhorst, who was Graham’s best man at his wedding, and is seen as one of South Africa’s top winemakers. The Syrah comes from the Jakkalsfontein vineyard, while the Chenin Blanc is sourced from the Kalmoesfontein vineyard. Graham’s winemaking philosophy is to let the purity of the fruit take center stage. For this article, we tasted and reviewed both wines from the Dalkeith project.
Tasting the Wines
We tasted Capensis for the first time earlier this year at ProWein in Dusseldorf, but had the opportunity to re-visit them during our recent meeting. Below our impression, and ratings for two of the Capensis Chardonnay’s (Silene and Capensis) and two of the Dalkeith wines (the Jakkalsfontein Syrah and Kalmoesfontein Chenin Blanc).
2020 Capensis Silene Chardonnay
This Chardonnay, a more approachable expression of Capensis, offers a balance of elegance and freshness. Grapes are sourced from Stellenbosch vineyards. On the nose, it reveals notes of lemon zest, pear, and white flowers. The palate is creamy but lifted, with vibrant acidity carrying flavors of stone fruit, citrus, and a subtle mineral edge. The wine finishes with a long, clean line of saline, hinting at the coastal influences of its terroir. DWA-score: 93/100
2018 Capensis Chardonnay
The flagship wine of Capensis, the 2018 Chardonnay is a masterclass in complexity and structure. Sourced from multiple high-altitude vineyards, it opens with aromas of ripe apple, citrus blossom, and a touch of almond. The palate is rich yet beautifully balanced, with layers of baked apple, lemon curd, and a hint of vanilla from the oak aging. Extended aging in stainless steel has given the wine a refined texture, and the finish is long, with notes of hazelnut and a persistent minerality. DWA-score: 94/100
2023 Dalkeith Jakkalsfontein Swartland Syrah
This Syrah is bold yet refined, showcasing the power and beauty of old bush vine Syrah from the Swartland. It bursts with aromas of blackberries, violets, and cracked black pepper, alongside an earthy undertone that speaks to its Swartland roots. On the palate, the wine is rich and structured, with flavors of dark fruits, black olive, and a hint of smoky herbs. The tannins are firm but integrated, leading to a long, spicy finish. DWA-score: 92/100
2023 Dalkeith Kalmoesfontein Swartland Chenin Blanc
The 2023 Chenin Blanc from Dalkeith reflects the vibrant energy of Swartland Chenin. Sourced from old vines, this wine shows aromas of quince, ripe pear, and a touch of honeyed citrus. The palate is fresh and lively, with crisp acidity framing flavors of white peach, lemon, and a touch of saline minerality. The wine finishes with a delicate texture, showcasing both depth and precision. DWA-score: 93/100
The Legacy of Capensis and Graham Weerts
Today, Capensis stands as one of the leading examples of South African Chardonnay on the international stage. Weerts has successfully navigated the challenges of winemaking in two distinct regions—California and South Africa—bringing a global perspective to Capensis while maintaining a deep respect for South Africa’s terroir. His commitment to innovation, combined with the resources and backing of Jackson Family Wines, has made Capensis a force to be reckoned with in the fine wine world.
The future of Capensis and Dalkeith looks bright, with ongoing projects to further develop the vineyards, create new wines, and continue pushing the boundaries of what South African wine can achieve. In our conversation, Weerts hinted at further experimentation with red wines and new projects, but for now, his focus remains on refining and perfecting the legacy he has already begun with Capensis and Dalkeith.
As Capensis continues to grow, it serves as a reminder that great wine is not just about a single vineyard or a single vintage—it’s about a vision, a team, and a deep understanding of the land.
This article is written by our own Niels Aarts. We would like to thank Graham Weerts, as well as the teams of Capensis, Dalkeith and Jackson Family Wines, for their time and the wines provided. Both Capensis and Dalkeith are imported and distributed in the Netherlands by Kemme Wines, and increasingly available in respected restaurants and wine stores.
