Nebbiolo – Clear Insides on a Misty Grape.
Before reading this article, we kindly ask you to close your eyes. Please imagine the rolling hills of Piedmont. Imagine the autumn sun sink behind snow covered alpine pikes, while the last golden rays kiss late ripening Nebbiolo grapes. Imagine the scent of falling autumn leaves blend with freshly grated truffle and freshly poured wine. We are in the land of the Nebbia, the famous mist of which some say it might be the namesake of the just as famous Nebbiolo.
As the autumn sun sets over Amsterdam, we taste a competitive range of Nebbiolo based wines. We taste along with the Dutch ‘Verenigde Vinologen Nederland’ (‘VVN’), an independent association of wine professionals who graduated from the wine academy. The VVN is dedicated to promote wine knowledge and exchange wine experiences.
VVN’s chairman and Pallas Wines’ senior buyer Joep Speet Magister Vini leads us into the intriguing world of Nebbiolo. We know Speet for a while and it is no exaggeration to say he is a true terroirist. A masterclass on Nebbiolo by Speet fits like a glove. Strongly influenced by its terroir, Nebbiolo is ideal for a comparative tasting. We taste seven 2020 Nebbiolo based wines by various producers and seven vintages of Barolo Ravera by G.D. Vajra.
Vintage 2020
To balance out phenolic ripeness and sugar ripeness, Nebbiolo requires a long growing season. Due to warmth and drought in the early spring of 2020, budding started early. Rain during flowering caused uneven ripening. Moderate rainfall prevented rashly ripening in a warm and dry summer. Despite its tempestuous start, 2020 brought forth decent quality Nebbiolo grapes. The vintage provides early ripening wines, with sufficient freshness. Speet: ‘despite its ripeness, pH levels are low, most likely caused by lower night temperatures and rainfall.’
Travaglini – Gattinara TreVigne 2020
Piedmont and particularly Langhe’s Barolo and Barbaresco are famous Nebbiolo vendors. Lesser known might be Nebbiolo from the northly Alto Piedmont. More than Piedmont, Alto Piedmont is influenced by the European Alpes. Alpine giants as the Monte Rosa provide in cooling winds. Due to cooler growing circumstances, wines from Alto Piedmont are less dense and less structured than its southern counterparts.
TreVigne 2020 by Alto Piedmont’s winemaking family Travaglini is bottled in a decanter shaped bottle. The grapes are sources from three vineyards – TreVigne – near the village of Gattinara. Altitude ranges from 250 to 480 meters, while soils are volcanic and iron rich. The warmth of the 2020 vintage is revealed in a slightly higher alcohol content than usual, although 13.8% ABV is nothing to complain about. Gattinara TreVigne 2020 by Travaglini shows aromas of tar, liquorice, sharp spices, autumn leaf, rosehip and pure cacao. The wine is young, fresh and floral. While tannins are ripe and supportive, the wine is pleasingly elegant, light footed and light structured. We mention uplifting floral and red fruit aromas like sour cherry in the long-lasting aftertaste.
DWA points: 92
F.lli Cigliuti – Barbaresco Serraboella 2020
The Barbaresco zone is located northeast of the city of Alba, on the calcareous clay soils right of the river Tanaro. In the glass we find Barbaresco Serraboella 2020 from reputed producer F.lli Cigliuti. Serraboella is a steep southwest exposed vineyard in eastern Barbaresco. The wine shows warmth and darkness. Ripe red cherry and dark cherry aromas are accompanied by chocolate, woody impressions and alcohol. It opens round, broad and mouth filling. A velvet and smooth mouthfeel is accompanied by grainy tannins. Sufficient fruit concentration and elegant acids counterbalances its weighty body (15.2% ABV), leaving long lasting impressions of dark fruits, sweet cherry and espresso.
DWA points: 92
Barolo – The Significance of Soils
We cannot talk about Barolo not mentioning its soils. Barolo is a geographical treasury. One of its most common soil types is Sant’Agata Fossili, a fossil-based limestone rich clay. The oldest soil type in Barolo however is Lequio, a light-coloured marl with layers of sandstone, mostly found in Serralunga and Monforte. A lot is said and written about soils in Barolo, but Speet is reluctant when it comes to the influence of the soil on the wine. ‘The question is whether it really is the soil composure making the difference, or just the positioning and exposition of the vineyard. The Central valley is far more open than the Serralunga valley, so not only soils but also climatic conditions are not the same’ Anyone who knows the answer please step forward.
Barolo – The extremes of Extraction
In terms of appearance, Nebbiolo is a wolf in sheep’s clothing. The lack of colour intensity does hide its high acids, high tannins and high alcohol levels. Nebbiolo’s skin is thin and lacks color giving anthocyanins. Vinification of Nebbiolo is all about extraction. More than elsewhere, extraction of Nebbiolo is subject to dogmatic discussions. We recall the traditionilisti (traditionist) versus modernisti (modernist) discussion. Briefly stated, traditionalism refers to patience demanding wine styles made by long macerations, while modernism refers to earlier approachable styles, made by intensive extraction methods. Nowadays the sharp edges of this dogmatic contradiction have been softened. Styles are converting and we find more and more variation and experimentation in vinification techniques.
G.D. Vajra – Barolo Bricco delle Viole 2020
Passive extraction methods – often marked as infusion – are gaining ground. A beautiful example is G.D. Vajra. Barolo Bricco delle Viole 2020 by Vajra underwent maceration for no less than fifty-seven days, under the use of the submerged cap technique. This method keeps the cap constantly under the surface of the must, providing color and flavor extraction without without risks of mold or over-extraction of (harsh) tannins.
Brico delle Viole is a small southeast to southwest exposed vineyard in the heart of the Barolo region. With an altitude of four hundred to four hundred eighty meters above sea level, it is one of Barolo’s highest vineyards.
Barolo Bricco della Viole 2020 by G.D. Vajra shows an aromatic, pure and floral bouquet, showing rose, fresh cherry and a touch of ripe cherry, bay leaf and liquorice. On the palate we meet beautiful concentrated pure red fruits. The wine is light footed with soft en refined supporting tannins and juicy acids. Remarkably open in this youthful stage, Barolo Bricco della Viole 2020 is a textbook example of Barolo on its refined and elegant side.
DWA points: 94
Luigi Baudana – Barolo Baudana 2020
Since the wines of Luigi Baudana are produced by G.D. Vajra, they still are bottled under de original label. Vajra’s own vineyards are in the central valley, while Baudana’s vineyards are situated in the northern part of the Serralunga Valley. The hand of Vajra is seen by sixty-five days maceration under submerged cap.
Barolo Baudana 2020 by Luigi Baudana is simultaneously weighty and weightless. We note balsamic, lovage, leather and dark cherry. The wine starts dark and serious, whereas beautiful acids take over and bend the pure fruits towards a more light-coloured spectrum. The palate is structured, while tannins are ripe and velvet. Despite its intensity, the wine shows incredible vibrancy, leaving a clean and long-lasting finish.
DWA points: 94
Giovanni Rosso – Barolo Serra 2020
Compared to Vajra’s wines, the twenty-five days of maceration on Giovanni Rosso’s Barolo Serra 2020 is remarkable short. Rosso uses a soft infusion technique called délestage – also known as rack and return – meaning pumping over of the juice in another tank and softly returning after 8-12 hours.
Serra is a beautiful steep east to southern east exposed steep vineyard in Serralunga on Lequio soils.
The bouquet of Barolo Serra 2020 by Giovanni Rosso is ripe, weighty savory and herbal. On the palate the wine opens calm and tender. The wine unfolds peacefully, while the volume increases with every second. The fruit is dark en ripe, while tannins feel velvet and smooth. Beautiful acids show up gradually, ultimately leaving a clean mouthfeel and long-lasting aftertaste.
DWA points: 92
Ester Canale Rosso – Barolo Vignarionda 2020
Vignarionda might be one of the most sought-after Crus in Serralunga. It is this southern exposed vineyard on Lequio soils where Giovanni Rosso owns a well-situated spot. The wine is labelled under the name of his mother: Ester Canale Rosso.
Floral aromas are blending with blood, iron, sour cherry and a hint of liquorice and tar. The medium bodied wine feels light footed, showing delicate pure fruits like sweet cherry, rosehip and raspberry. There is weightless concentration and stylish pressure. Velvet fresh fruits flow along ripe tannins and mouthwatering acids, leaving a clean and fresh infinite aftertaste.
DWA points: 96
Domenico Clerico – Barolo Ginestra Ciabot Mentin 2020
As part of the Barolo Boys, Domenico Clerico was a true modernist. Clerico once strived short but heavy extractions in roto fermenters, but through the years the domain tempered its extremism. Macerations on Barolo Ciabot Mentin 2020 nevertheless took no more than 20 days. Ciabot Mentin is located in the higher parts of the eastern exposed cru Ginestra.
Barolo Ginestra Ciabot Mentin 2020 is showing a dark, muscular and savoury aroma profile, freshened up aromatic red and black cherry. The wine opens quite satiating and broad, quickly followed by its tight and dense structure. Although build on pungent tannins and banging acids, the wine stands out in elegancy and refinement. We find scents of black tea and fresh red cherry in a long lasting aftertaste.
DWA points: 94
Barolo – The Variation of Vintages
Considering its long growing season, Nebbiolo is sensitive for seasonable fluctuations. There is no better way to discover these fluctuations than by tasting multiple vintages of the same wine. We taste seven Barolo Ravera’s by G.D. Vajra, a south to south-east amphitheater shaped vineyard in the north of Novello. We refer to the Vajra Vintage Chart below for an insightful characterization of each vintage.
G.D. Vajra – Barolo Ravera 2020
Aromatic, pure, fresh fruits, scent of dark fruits. Velvet, refined tannins, concentration, energetic power, length (94 DWA-points).
G.D. Vajra – Barolo Ravera 2019
Salivating dark fruit, both dark and red, structured, compact, high acids, immense potential (95 DWA points).
G.D. Vajra – Barolo Ravera 2018
Open, ripe, pureed red fruits, touch of blue fruits. Soft, rich, mature fruits, delicate, stimulating mineral core (94 DWA points).
G.D. Vajra – Barolo Ravera 2017
Warmth, ripe and saturated fruits, dark cherry and kirsch. Broad shoulders. concentration, noticeable alcohol. Less purity and tension compared to the other vintages (92 DWA-points).
G.D. Vajra – Barolo Ravera 2016
Reserved, herbal, smooth, transparent, balanced, tight mineral core and aftertaste (94 DWA points).
G.D. Vajra – Barolo Ravera 2015
Open, ripe and rich fruits, slightly matured fruits, great acids (94 DWA points).
G.D. Vajra – Barolo Ravera 2014
Reserved, structured, reluctant fruit, herbal, tight mineral core and aftertaste (93 DWA points).
Conclusion
Together with the Verenigde Vinologen Nederland we took a peek behind the misty curtain called Nebbiolo. We felt its expression of the terroir. We felt its past by tasting the powers of nature. We listened to the interpretations of its makers. We beheld its endless potential. With Nebbiolo there is a whole world to discover.
This article was written by our own Hermen Jansen. The above-mentioned wines are imported in the Netherlands by Pallas Wines, and available through selected partners. We thank Verenigde Vinologen Nederland for the invitation and Joep Speet for the deep insights in Nebbiolo.
