Exploring the Hidden Wine Treasures of Navarra and Somontano.
When it comes to Spanish wines, most think of Rioja, Verdejo, or the rising popularity of Ribera del Duero. Yet, Spain has so much more to offer! Join us on a journey through the breathtaking vineyards of Somontano and Navarra, where an October visit unveiled a world of hidden wine treasures waiting to be explored.
Navarra: The Land of Rosé
The Denominación de Origen (DO) of Navarra is one of the oldest in Spain, and used to be really famous for its rosé wines—especially the dark-colored, dry varieties made primarily from Garnacha using the saignée method. Today, there is much more to uncover across its 9,400 hectares.
Garnacha is Navarra’s most planted grape variety. In 1895, phylloxera swept through Spain and affected Navarra as well, much like it had previously devastated vineyards in France. During this crisis, many French winemakers sought refuge in Spain, and Navarra wisely engaged them, asking what they desired rather than adhering strictly to local grape varieties. As a result, a diverse range of grape varieties found a home in Navarra, including Chardonnay, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon, alongside its native Garnacha Blanca.
Navarra’s diverse terroirs are divided into four distinct regions: Valdizarbe, Tierra Estella, Ribera Baja, and Baja Montano. Approximately 100 kilometers from north to south, these regions showcase significant climatic and landscape differences. The southern part is warmer, often described as ‘desert-like,’ where canopy management is essential for producing fresh wines. In contrast, the northern region benefits from an Atlantic climate, facilitating the creation of crisp, refreshing wines. Currently, there are about 1,600 winegrowers and 83 wineries within DO Navarra.
Several remarkable wineries explain the region’s diversity and quality. Bodega Marco Real, originally a distillery for pacharán (a local liqueur), began producing wine in 1992, with vineyards located at the heart of Navarra. Their philosophy is expressing the region of Navarra through their wines. With 75 hectares of vineyards, they cultivate a variety of red and white grapes, categorized into four plots: Las Leras, Espesuras, La Pared and Valdeherreros. This winery offers a diverse range of wines, from single varieties to blends, including a Provence-style rosé and the well-known dark-colored Navarra rosé.
Family-run for generations, Bodega Ochoa is now managed by their two daughters. An interesting fact about DO Navarra is that 50% of the winemakers are women, a noteworthy distinction in a male-dominated industry. Bodega Ochoa strives for organic practices and utilizes their own natural yeasts for fermentation.
Bodega Inurrieta, established in 2002, with 275 hectares of vineyards, most planted by the winery itself. They cultivate various grape varieties across seven different soil types. Their portfolio includes fresh and crisp Garnacha Blanca and Sauvignon Blanc, alongside full-bodied Garnacha Tinta and Syrah. Winemaker Javier has selected nine out of 2,000 unique grape varieties native to Navarra, recently planting them two years ago. The results till now one has been promising, these native varieties are expected to adapt well to climate change challenges faced by winemakers worldwide.
Lastly, Bodega Otazu beautifully combines art and wine, with every aspect of the winery thoughtfully designed. Although still within DO Navarra, the vineyards and surrounding landscape belong exclusively to the winery. Otazu boasts its own DOP Pago de Otazu, one of the 25 Vino de Pago classifications in Spain, which are the top-tier single estate wines. These wines are crafted, aged, and bottled on-site, capturing the essence of their unique terroir. The winery’s microclimate is similar to that of Bordeaux, influenced by Atlantic breezes from the east and surrounded by 2 mountain ranges.
Another great discovery here occurred in 2017 when six wild vines were found on their land. After research, they learned that these ancient vines had survived both phylloxera and the civil war, making them unique to this winery alone! Now, they are cultivating a 1-hectare plot of these extraordinary vines, and this year marked the first harvest of this one-of-a-kind grape. Incredible!
Somontano: “A Region with a Low Population but Big Wines”
This quote, by Jesús (enologist at Bodega Enate) encapsulates the spirit of DO Somontano, a region rich in discovery. Nestled at the foot of the Pyrenees, Somontano has 40 years of history as one of Spain’s top DOs, with 4,000 hectares of vineyards and 27 wineries supported by 297 vine growers. The region is vital to the local economy.
Most vineyards are grown at altitudes between 350 and 600 meters, where soft, calcareous brown soils help distribute water and essential minerals for optimal crop production. The challenging climate, characterized by cold winters and hot summers, needs adaptability from the vines.
Somontano cultivates 15 grape varieties, including whites like Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Garnacha Blanca, Macabeo, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, and Alcañón. Riesling and Gewürztraminer thrive here due to the high altitude, cool nights, and calcareous soils, which enhance their fresh acidity and aromatic intensity. Vinas del Vero had shown the region’s ability to produce outstanding Gewürztraminer and Riesling, characterized by balanced acidity and aromatic wines.
The red varieties include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Tempranillo, Syrah, Garnacha Tinta, Parraleta, Moristel, and Pinot Noir. Many Bordeaux-style blends are made from this region, showcasing great quality. Unique to Somontano are Parraleta, Moristel, and Alcañón. Alcañón, a white variety, produces crisp and fresh wines, while Parraleta and Moristel offer fuller-bodied reds with higher tannins.
This region is a fore runner regard to winemaking techniques and innovation, combining climate, soil, altitude, and low yields to produce quality wines. And…. for the party animals among us, they host Spain’s largest wine festival every August!
A Highlight of Somontano: Enate
Enate, a prominent winery nestled in the Enate Valley, has been crafting high-quality wines since its first vintage in 1992. Now, 33 vintages later, Enate continues to excel, cultivating 450 hectares of vineyards and expanding its portfolio with the acquisition of Laus in 2017, now a sub-winery.
Much like Otazu, Enate seamlessly weaves art into every facet of its operation—from architecture to bottle design and, ultimately, into the glass. Home to the region’s oldest Chardonnay vines, Enate consistently delivers exceptional wines, embodying the spirit of Somontano: “Low population, big wines!”
If you would like to learn more about Enate be sure to check out this article.
Beyond the Classics: Discovering Spain’s Hidden Gems in Navarra and Somontano
Spain’s wine regions offer a wealth of discovery far beyond the well-known names. Navarra, for example, has developed into a region renowned not only for its celebrated rosés but also for its diverse offerings, from Garnacha Tinta to international varieties. With its stunning vineyards, unique climate, and focus on innovation, sustainability, and the fusion of art and wine, Navarra is a must-visit for any wine lover. These progressive practices place Navarra at the forefront of contemporary winemaking, making it a beacon for enthusiasts.
Don’t overlook Somontano, either. Nestled at the foot of the Pyrenees, this region is known for its distinctive landscape and a forward-thinking approach to viticulture and winemaking. With rare local varieties like Parraleta, Moristel, and Alcañón, Somontano provides a fresh perspective on Spanish wine, showcasing Spain’s diverse viticultural heritage.
Together, these regions offer a unique invitation to venture beyond Spain’s classic wine routes, uncovering Navarra and Somontano’s remarkable terroir and spirit. Here’s to the journey—perhaps timed with a visit to Somontano’s celebrated wine festival!
This article is written by our own Janne van Lieshout. A special thank you to A Shared Passion for organizing this incredible trip and making it such a memorable experience, with special appreciation to Iván and Sergio. Picture credits: Janne van Lieshout and the DO’s of Navarra and Somontano.
Our gratitude also goes to the DO Navarra and DO Somontano for welcoming us to their headquarters, sharing the unique character of each region, and speaking so passionately about their heritage. And, of course, a huge thank you to all the wineries for their warm hospitality, introducing us to their exceptional wines, bodegas, and beautiful locations.
