There are evenings when food and wine don’t just complement one another — they converse. At a recent Crurated Winemaker Dinner in Amsterdam, that dialogue unfolded between two of Germany’s greatest Riesling estates — Weingut Dönnhoff from the Nahe and Weingut Wittmann from Rheinhessen — and the creative cuisine of Restaurant Flore, temporarily housed at the eco-minded Basecamp pop-up. What followed was a journey through terroir, flavor, and texture, leaving every guest with the sensation of having experienced something rare and unforgettable.
The evening was made possible by Crurated, a collective that has redefined how fine wine lovers connect with the world’s top Domaines. Their model is not just about offering rare allocations, but about building bridges between collectors and the families behind the bottles. Through tastings, winemaker dinners, and direct engagement, Crurated ensures that its members don’t just drink great wine — they live its story.
If you are curious about Crurated you can read a previous publication by us, discussing the platform.
While Flore’s two-Michelin-starred home undergoes a transformation, Chef Bas van Kranen and his team have found a temporary stage at Basecamp Amsterdam, an eco-resort built from reclaimed wood and sustainable materials. The pop-up space is modest and natural, yet full of warmth and energy. In this setting, Flore’s signature philosophy of purity, sustainability, and terroir-driven cuisine took on a new intimacy. Each dish was designed not only to highlight seasonal produce but also to resonate with the very soils of the wines served alongside.
The experience, however, was elevated far beyond the kitchen. Antonello Nicastri, Wine Director and Head Sommelier, guided guests through each pairing with precision and passion. His deep knowledge of terroir and extensive expertise in fine wine service ensured that every glass poured felt purposeful, enhancing the dialogue between cuisine and Riesling.
Alongside him, Roos Stevens, Maître, brought poise and warmth to the dining room. With her sharp eye for detail and extensive experience in hospitality, she orchestrated the evening seamlessly, creating an atmosphere that balanced professionalism with ease.
Together with van Kranen’s culinary vision, Nicastri’s wine mastery and Stevens’ refined service turned the pop-up into more than a temporary restaurant — it became a stage where craftsmanship and hospitality met in harmony.
Before dinner began, guests gathered for a focused masterclass, guided by Anne Dönnhoff of Weingut Dönnhoff and Leo Meese of Weingut Wittmann. Both spoke with conviction and humility, weaving stories of family heritage, terroir, and the distinctive character of the 2023 vintage.
Anne described the Nahe as a landscape of contrasts — volcanic rock, slate, and weathered stone shaping wines of crystalline elegance. Leo, representing Rheinhessen, emphasized the limestone soils of Westhofen, which imbue Wittmann’s Rieslings with sculptural minerality and longevity.
The tasting unfolded in flights, offering a progression from estate introductions to the pinnacles of Grosses Gewächs, with even a rare magnum from 2004 making an appearance.
2023 Wittmann Estate Riesling
Lively citrus, pear, and a chalky edge. Crisp, transparent, and a perfect entry into Wittmann’s limestone world.
Rating: 90/100
2023 Dönnhoff Tonschiefer Riesling
Slate-driven, with smoky minerality, stone fruit, and electric acidity. Juicy and vivid, a quintessential Nahe Riesling.
DWA Rating: 90/100
2023 Wittmann Westhofener 1er Riesling
Firm and structured: quince, lemon oil, and gripping mineral tension. A wine of direction and poise.
DWA Rating: 92/100
2023 Dönnhoff Kahlenberg 1er Riesling
Generous and expressive, with ripe orchard fruit and herbs. Softer in texture than Wittmann’s, yet equally precise.
DWA Rating: 92/100
2023 Wittmann Kirchspiel GG Riesling
Elegant and fine-boned, with citrus zest, herbs, and a saline, almost Burgundian finesse.
DWA Rating: 94/100
2023 Wittmann Brunnenhäuschen GG Riesling
Deeper and more commanding: ripe yellow fruit, fennel, and dense chalk. Tight and powerful, built to last.
DWA Rating: 95/100
2019 Wittmann Brunnenhäuschen GG Riesling
Evolved yet vibrant: honeyed citrus, chamomile, and layered minerality. Proof of Wittmann’s age-worthy style.
DWA Rating: 95/100
2023 Dönnhoff Hermannshöhle GG Riesling
A young masterpiece: crystalline citrus, smoky slate, and laser-like focus. Energy and depth in perfect balance.
DWA Rating: 96/100
2013 Dönnhoff Hermannshöhle GG Riesling
Complex layers of beeswax, herbs, and citrus peel. Still vibrant, evolving into savory minerality.
DWA Rating: 95/100
2004 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke GG Riesling Spätlese (Magnum)
Golden, opulent, yet fresh: candied citrus, honey, petrol, and piercing acidity. A rare gem that stole the flight.
DWA Rating: 97/100
Few estates represent German Riesling as clearly as Weingut Dönnhoff, based in Oberhausen on the River Nahe. For centuries, the Dönnhoff family has cultivated steep vineyards, crafting wines that capture both elegance and terroir-driven depth. Under the leadership of Cornelius Dönnhoff, the estate continues to produce some of the world’s most admired Rieslings, from feather-light Kabinetts to monumental Grosses Gewächs.
Dönnhoff wines are marked by their balance: fruit, minerality, sweetness, and acidity woven seamlessly into harmony. Their reputation is not built on power but on clarity — every bottle a lesson in restraint and precision.
In Rheinhessen, Weingut Wittmann stands as a pioneer of organic and biodynamic viticulture. With a family tradition stretching back to the 17th century, the estate has been transformed under Philipp Wittmann into one of Germany’s most respected producers.
The limestone soils of Westhofen give Wittmann’s Rieslings their unmistakable backbone: firm, structured, and age-worthy, yet never lacking in elegance. Grosse Lage sites like Morstein, Kirchspiel, and Brunnenhäuschen produce some of the most sought-after dry Rieslings in the world, wines that speak of chalk and time as much as fruit and flower.
If you would like to learn more about Weingut Wittmann be sure to check out an earlier publication by us here, and our Podcast with Philipp Wittmann here.
After the masterclass, guests moved to the dining room, where Chef Bas van Kranen’s team at Flore presented a menu designed to mirror the character of the wines. Each course created a dialogue between the plate and the glass.
2019 Dönnhoff Pinot Brut (Magnum)
Crisp green apple, citrus zest, and hints of brioche. Lively bubbles refreshed the palate, a festive opening to the evening.
Rating: 91/100 DWA score.
Dish: Vegetables, herbs, and preserves from Groenhartig Farm in Amsterdam — Flore’s year-round signature dish. A composition of 25 seasonal elements, each with its own preparation, bound together by a gazpacho-style sauce of hazelnut, kale, and coriander seeds.
This plate was a study in complexity and purity: bitter greens, earthy roots, pickled brightness, and subtle nuttiness all layered in one expression of the farm’s biodiversity. The sauce, both creamy and herbal, tied the elements together without overwhelming them.
Wine: 2023 Wittmann Riesling vom Kalkstein
The youthful energy of Wittmann’s limestone-driven Riesling made it a perfect partner. Its zesty citrus and crisp pear cut through the richness of hazelnut, while its saline edge echoed the minerality of the kale and herbs. The wine’s vibrancy kept pace with the dish’s kaleidoscope of flavors, cleansing the palate and giving clarity to the medley of vegetables.
Rating: 90/100 DWA score.
Dish: Brown crab, kingfish sashimi, cooked mussels, caviar, and sea buckthorn, seasoned with a fragrant bouillabaisse of lemon habanero and saffron.
This dish was a tour de force of the sea: the sweet delicacy of crab, the clean silkiness of kingfish sashimi, and the briny punch of mussels and caviar, all sharpened by the bright acidity of sea buckthorn. The bouillabaisse brought depth and heat, with saffron’s exotic warmth balanced by a subtle chili kick.
Wine: 2019 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Leistenberg Kabinett (Große Lage)
This Kabinett proved a masterstroke with the complexity of the dish. Its gentle sweetness soothed the spice of lemon habanero while its electric acidity lifted the richness of crab and mussels. Aromas of lime, peach, and slate mirrored both the oceanic salinity and the tart sea buckthorn. The pairing felt precise and dynamic, each sip resetting the palate and preparing it for another bite.
Rating: 93/100 DWA score.
Dish: Celeriac steak, barbecued celeriac with shiitake XO, pointed cabbage shoot salad, chrysanthemum, white currant juice with pipián verde mole, and a sauce of cavolo nero, goji, wasabi, and light parsley foam.
This was a dish of earth and smoke, lifted by unexpected brightness. The barbecued celeriac carried a caramelized sweetness, deepened by the umami punch of shiitake XO. The cabbage shoots and chrysanthemum added vegetal freshness, while the pipián mole and cavolo nero sauce gave spice, herbaceousness, and depth. White currant and parsley foam brought acidity and lightness, a reminder of balance within richness.
Wines:
2017 Dönnhoff Kreuznacher Kahlenberg 1G
A wine of generosity, with ripe citrus, herbs, and a round, almost creamy texture. It embraced the dish’s earthiness and the smoky celeriac, softening the bitter edges of cavolo nero.
Rating: 92/100 DWA score.
2017 Wittmann Westhofener Riesling 1G
More taut and linear, this Riesling cut sharply through the mole and XO richness. Lemon oil, chalk, and firm minerality aligned with the white currant’s acidity, highlighting the freshness of cabbage and chrysanthemum. Where Dönnhoff comforted, Wittmann provided contrast and precision.
Rating: 93/100 DWA score.
Together, the two wines offered guests a fascinating contrast: Dönnhoff’s softness amplifying comfort, Wittmann’s grip sharpening definition.
Dish: Grilled turbot fillet and swimming bladder with langoustine, hoja santa, Dutch wasabi, nasturtium leaf, and a plankton pilpil made from fish head gelatin, finished with a green gazpacho.
This course was a study in the depths of the sea and the freshness of the garden. The turbot’s delicate flesh, lightly grilled, met the gelatinous texture of the swimming bladder, while langoustine added sweetness and succulence. Dutch wasabi and nasturtium leaf brought sharp spice and peppery lift, hoja santa contributed herbal mystery, and the plankton pilpil gave the dish a maritime intensity. The green gazpacho tied everything together with refreshing acidity.
Wines:
2018 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke GG “Versteigerung”
An extraordinary Riesling of concentration and purity. Notes of lemon curd, smoke, and wet stone cut through the gelatinous richness of swimming bladder and pilpil. Its crystalline acidity mirrored the green gazpacho’s freshness, while the stony backbone echoed the dish’s maritime flavors. Sublime with the turbot.
Rating: 96/100 DWA score.
2018 Wittmann La Borne Riesling “Alte Reben”
More powerful and brooding, La Borne brought ripe stone fruit, herbal depth, and firm limestone structure. Its density complemented the langoustine’s sweetness and the wasabi’s spice, grounding the dish with weight and persistence.
Rating: 95/100 DWA score.
Together, the pairings showed two faces of Riesling greatness: Dönnhoff’s ethereal lift and Wittmann’s structured gravitas, both meeting the turbot dish at different points of its complexity.
Dish: Aged sea bass, grilled and served with sea bass nduja, bell pepper kombucha, and cascabel pepper oil.
The sea bass itself, aged for concentration of flavor, was tender yet rich, its flesh carrying a subtle smokiness from the grill. The nduja, made from sea bass, added depth and a gentle heat, while cascabel pepper oil gave a warm, earthy spice. Bell pepper kombucha contributed acidity and a fermented tang, cutting through the richness and giving the dish an intriguing brightness.
Wines:
2013 Dönnhoff Norheimer Dellchen GG
With a decade of maturity, this Riesling offered honeyed citrus, dried herbs, and smoky slate. Its evolved character mirrored the depth of the aged fish and the spice of cascabel, while its lingering acidity cleansed the palate between bites.
Rating: 95/100 DWA score.
2016 Wittmann Morstein GG
A monumental wine: taut yet powerful, with lemon curd, fennel, and profound chalky minerality. Its bold structure stood up to the nduja and cascabel oil, while its freshness balanced the intensity of the dish. This was the louder of the two pairings, yet it never overshadowed the food — instead, it pushed the flavors into even greater focus.
Rating: 96/100 DWA score.
The course was a dialogue between spice and minerality, heat and freshness — a pairing that challenged and delighted in equal measure.
Dish: BBQ pears and honey-preserved porcini mushrooms, combined with sour quince juice, lemon thyme oil, and meadowsweet soft-serve. Topped with cydonia (quince) granita and freshly baked honey-glazed brioche.
This dessert blurred the line between sweet and savory. The barbecued pear carried caramelized depth, while the honey-preserved porcini gave an earthy umami note, tying the dish back to the forest. Quince juice and granita provided sharp acidity and freshness, balanced by the aromatic lift of lemon thyme. The meadowsweet soft-serve and warm brioche added indulgent creaminess and comfort, creating a multi-layered finale.
Wine:
2018 Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Auslese (Große Lage)
Golden and luminous, with aromas of candied pineapple, apricot, wild honey, and delicate botrytis spice. Its crystalline acidity cut through the sweetness of brioche and soft-serve, while its luscious texture wrapped seamlessly around pear and porcini. The quince in the dish found a perfect mirror in the wine’s vibrant citrus notes, making for a pairing that felt both hedonistic and precise.
Rating: 97/100 DWA score.
The result was a dessert pairing that felt like a final chapter — indulgent, layered, and unforgettable, sending the evening off on a high note.
As the evening drew to a close, what lingered was not just the memory of extraordinary wines or exquisite dishes, but the interplay between them. Dönnhoff’s crystalline elegance and Wittmann’s limestone structure are very different voices, yet together they told a story of Germany’s greatest grape in its most expressive forms.
In the intimate setting of Flore’s Basecamp pop-up, with Crurated weaving winemakers and guests into a single community, this dinner became more than a meal. It was a reminder of why Riesling — in all its forms — continues to inspire awe.
Dutch Wine Apprentice Verdict: A night where terroir, cuisine, and craftsmanship converged — proving that the best pairings are not simply tasted, but experienced.
This article is written by our own Niels Aarts, upon invitation by Crurated.
We would like to thank Paolo Sforza, Alexander Staartjes and Gregoire Riccardo Binotti of Crurated. Of course, we thank Anne Dönnhoff of Weingut Dönnhoff and Leo Meese of Weingut Wittmann and the staff of Flore, in particular Antonello Nicastri, Roos Stevens and Bas van Kranen.
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