2021 Chardonnay Le Souvenir Sierra Madre Vineyard – Paul Lato Wines.
In this review we discuss a single vineyard Chardonnay from California’s Santa Maria Valley AVA. We discover Paul Lato Wines, a boutique winery producing high quality terroir driven wines from inter alia Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. We taste their Chardonnay Le Souvenir Sierra Madre Vineyard 2021.
About the Winery
Twenty years ago, a Polish-born Canadian sommelier called Paul Lato decides to make his own wine. Armed with no more than two suitcases and a dose of self-confidence, he leaves hearth and home to pursue his dream in California. A lack of enology education and start-up capital guarantees major challenges. Thanks to the perseverance of Paul Lato however, we nowadays enjoy highly acclaimed wines by one of Santa Barbara’s finest artisanal winemakers.
Lato learns the profession from icons like Jim Clendenen (Au Bon Climat) and Bob Miller (Bien Nacido). More than that, his work is based on the tasting skills he developed as a sommelier. We quote Paul Lato: ‘From my experience of tasting the finest wines from around the world, all the greatest wines possess authenticity, harmony and elegance. These are the qualities I constantly try to capture in my wines.’
Lato tastes and examines wines from Burgundian producer Henri Jayer (Pinot Noir) and Rhone producer Jean Louis Chave (Syrah) and sets them as a role model for his own wines. The result of his first vintage are six barrels of wine, half Pinot and half Syrah. By coincidence, Robert Parker tastes them – and is impressed from the first sip. We quote: ‘Paul Lato’s talents as well as respect for the varietals are obvious. As he says, these wines reflect his belief of those who dare to dream.’
Lato gains reputation, which allows him access to better vineyards. His reluctance to external investors, forcers him to rent parcels by acre. ‘I select unique vineyards that are cared for by talented vineyard managers committed to excellence. I strive to locate and source from not only the best vineyards but the best blocks within each of these vineyards.’
About the Vineyard
Chardonnay from Santa Maria Valley is added to the portfolio in 2007. Established in 1981, Santa Maria Valley is Santa Barbara’s oldest American Viticultural Area (AVA). Due to its positioning, it is one of the coolest grape growing areas in California. A western opening to the Pacific Ocean allows chilling influences into the valley. Cooling breezes and fogs lower temperatures and extend the growing season, allowing grapes to fully ripen without excessive sugar levels.
Lato finds a small parcel in the historic Sierra Madre Vineyard, planted with Wente clone Chardonnay grapes. It is one of the oldest vineyards in the region and late Robert Mondavi contributed to the success of it. Located only fifteen miles from the Pacific Ocean, it benefits a consistent maritime influence. Soils are sandy, resulting in fruit rich flavours.
About the Winemaking
The first vintage of Le Souvenir Sierra Madre Vineyard scores no less than 94 points by Robert Parker. We quote: ‘Small artisanal, handmade wines produced from tiny yields are the rule of thumb for the boutique producer Paul Lato. This is a great story of a Polish immigrant falling in love with California and its vineyards, and having the guts to produce his own wines at the Santa Maria co-op. These terrific wines are from a true artist, and they merit consumer attention and support.’
In terms of style, Lato keeps his eye on Burgundy, without aiming for an exact copy-paste. ‘Though our style is inspired by the balance and harmony of the Côte d’Or, we also seek to capture the intensity of flavour that is a hallmark of sun-kissed California vineyards.’ The work in the cellar is aiming towards minimal intervention, without any over-dogmatising. The Chardonnay Le Souvenir Sierra Madre Vineyard 2021 underwent full malolactic conversion and was matured in 50% new French oak for 16 months.
About the Wine
The medium gold coloured wine is aromatic and flavour rich. With time, it bouquet opens and gains complexity. We note bright fruit flavours of ripe nectarine, white peach and mango. We also find citrusy aromas of pickled lemon and lemon zest. Scents of summer garden flowers and unburned nuts are accompanied by a soothing touch of wax, vanilla pod and fresh cream. Be aware of endlessly sniffing.
The bouquet gives a sneak peek towards the tasting profile of the wine, which we would describe as an ongoing roleplay between freshness and ripeness. The medium bodied wine opens up open and charming. Bright and pure ripe citrus dominated fruits fill the palate. The mouthfeel is simultaneously round and clean.
Intensive juicy fruit flavours provide pressure without a gram of overweight. Firm and electrifying acids on the on hand and a stimulating and provocative core on the other provides tension. Tension like a sniff of salt and pepper to your favourite dish. The long-lasting aftertaste leaves impressions of ripe lemon, lemon grass and mint- and ginger tea.
There is so much going on in this 2021 Chardonnay Le Souvenir Sierra Madre Vineyard 2021, we are hardly able to summarize it. But if we would have to, we would mention the balance between the Burgundian tension and freshness on the one hand and Californian ripeness and juiciness on the other. More than that, the wine is talking about drinking pleasure. High class drinking pleasure to be precise. Drink or hold.
We reward this outstanding Chardonnay with a 95-point DWA score.
This review is written by our own Hermen Jansen. The wines of Paul Lato are available through Best of Wines.
Price: €89,54
Taste date: November 2024
Score: 95/100 DWA Score
Website: Paul Lato Wines