Weingut Kühling Gillot – Battenfeld Spanier – 2017 Spätburgunder

Weingut Kühling Gillot – Battenfeld Spanier – 2017 Spätburgunder.

A finely etched and terroir-transparent Spätburgunder, classified as estate wine, that reflects the dual identity of one of Rheinhessen’s most dynamic wine families; Kühling Battenfeld. The 2017 vintage brings together ripeness, delicacy, and cool-climate tension, resulting in a Pinot Noir of purity and sculpted elegance—less about exuberance, more about quiet depth and mineral definition.

About the Winery

Kühling Gillot and Battenfeld Spanier form a unique partnership in the southern stretches of Rheinhessen, stewarded by the husband-and-wife team of H.O. and Carolin Spanier-Gillot. Together, they represent two estates with distinct histories and terroirs, united by a shared commitment to precision, ecological farming, and a deep respect for the geological complexity of the region.

Battenfeld Spanier, founded in 1991 by H.O. Spanier, is rooted in the Wonnegau, an area shaped by porous limestone soils and windy, elevated exposures. These conditions yield wines known for their linearity, tension, and stony nerve. Kühling-Gillot, originating from Bodenheim and led by Carolin Spanier-Gillot, draws from red slate and limestone along the banks of the Rhine, producing wines with a more textural, aromatic profile. The estates have been certified organic since 2005 and are now widely recognized as among Germany’s leading producers of terroir-driven, dry wines.

While Riesling often takes center stage, their work with Pinot Noir has attracted growing acclaim. Farmed with the same stringent ecological focus and vinified with restraint, these wines emphasize transparency over power, allowing the interplay of fruit, spice, and limestone-driven minerality to shine.

If you would like to learn more about Kühling-Gillot Battenfeld-Spanier check out our article here, and our podcast with Carolin Spanier here, as part of our series Grape Masters.

About the Wine

The 2017 Spätburgunder is a study in finesse. A challenging vintage, with modest yields, led to a Pinot Noir with lifted aromatics, vibrant acidity, and refined tannic structure.

In the glass, the wine shows a translucent ruby hue, hinting at its elegant frame. The bouquet opens with red cherry, wild strawberry, and cranberry, followed by rose petals, sweet herbs, and a whisper of smoked tea. With time in the glass, more savory elements unfold—pomegranate skin, damp earth, dried spice, and a faint graphite edge typical of limestone-grown Pinot.

On the palate, the wine is lithe and precise. Red-fruited and gently spiced, it glides rather than pushes, driven by bright acidity and fine, talc-like tannins. The fruit is pure but restrained, allowing its mineral backbone to assert itself with quiet confidence. There is an almost Burgundian sense of poise: supple texture balanced by linear structure, with a cool, stony undertow that lengthens the finish. Subtle notes of redcurrant and savory herbs linger, accompanied by a delicate saline touch.

The 2017 Spätburgunder is drinking beautifully now, offering harmony and freshness, yet it retains enough structure to evolve gracefully over the next five to seven years.

Conclusion

Weingut Kühling Battenfeld’s 2017 Spätburgunder is a graceful and terroir-specific expression of Pinot Noir—light on its feet yet quietly complex. It captures the essence of limestone-grown German Spätburgunder: bright, elegant, and deeply rooted in its landscape. A wine for those who value purity and detail over sheer intensity.

We award this wine a 91-point DWA score—an elegant, mineral-driven Spätburgunder with impressive clarity and finesse.

This review is written by our own Niels Aarts. The wine is purchased at the Weingut.

Taste Date:  December 2025 

Website:     Weingut Kühling Gillot – Battenfeld Spanier