
A bold and refined debut from François Lurton that redefines Toro red.
From the hands of one of France’s most adventurous winemakers comes a wine that gently but deliberately turns its back on the powerful stereotype of Toro. Contracorriente—Spanish for “against the current”—is a fitting name for a red that challenges expectations, offering freshness, silkiness, and elegance where others might rely solely on raw power.
With its vibrant aromatics, organic origins, and minimalist winemaking, this is not just a new wine from Toro—it is a new voice for the region, produced by Bodegas Campo Eliseo.
Bodegas Campo Eliseo is the Spanish stronghold of François Lurton, a fifth-generation Bordeaux winemaker known for his global curiosity and terroir-first approach. Having produced wines across continents—from Mendoza to the Maule Valley, and from the Rueda to the Languedoc—Lurton’s projects are always rooted in a search for identity, balance, and innovation.
Founded in 2007 in the heart of Toro (following an initial focus on Rueda), Campo Eliseo reflects that ethos. Its high-density, organically farmed vineyards near Peleagonzalo are planted in loam-sandy soils—light, permeable, and expressive. And its cutting-edge winery, complete with gravity-fed vinification and deep underground cellars, fuses tradition with precision.
In 2025, Lurton launched Contracorriente as a counterpoint to the concentrated, structured Toro reds typically made from old bush vines. With this release, he places freshness, purity of fruit, and silky texture at the forefront.
A wine that whispers what Toro can be.
The 2023 Contracorriente shows a radiant cherry-red hue and opens with an aromatic burst of ripe strawberries, blueberries, and crushed blackberries. A peppery lift and soft spice notes add complexity without weight.
On the palate, it is juicy and immediate. Bright red fruit carries through, supported by round, finely integrated tannins that stretch the finish rather than weigh it down. There’s a softness and ease here—an accessibility—yet the wine holds its shape and identity. Fermentation in concrete vats and amphorae (clay, sandstone, ceramic) preserves the wine’s vibrant character and adds subtle textural nuance.
Contracorriente may be youthful in age and spirit, but it’s confident in its direction. No acidification, no cultured yeasts, no aggressive extraction—just a pure expression of tinta de toro, made from 16-year-old organically farmed vines planted at an unusually high density (6,000 vines/ha). This results in smaller berries, higher acidity, and a lifted, modern profile.
Conclusion
The 2023 Contracorriente by Campo Eliseo is not only a promising debut—it’s a statement. François Lurton once again demonstrates his talent for interpreting terroir in new ways, and for guiding regions toward evolution without abandoning authenticity.
Contracorriente is a red for a new generation of Toro drinkers. Accessible, bright, and expressive, it is a wine that speaks with clarity and confidence.
We award this wine a 91-point DWA score—a compelling and original expression of tinta de toro that points Toro in a fresh direction.
This review is written by our own Niels Aarts. We tasted this wine as part of our ongoing exploration of Spain’s evolving wine regions. François Lurton’s wines are represented internationally and available in various European markets.
Price: ~€22,50
Taste Date: July 2025
Glass Type: Spiegelau Definition Universal
Writer: Niels Aarts
Score: 92/100 DWA Score
Website: Bodegas Campo Eliseo
Join our insiders’ list and get exclusive early access to new articles, expert tips, and fresh reviews delivered straight to your inbox. Subscribe now and be the first to discover!
Subscribe for curated content, podcast alerts and honest wine reviews.