López de Heredia: Where Tradition Meets Timeless Winemaking.
In the heart of Rioja, Spain, the López de Heredia winery stands as a symbol of tradition, where time seems to stop in the vineyards and cellars. A single-family operation since its founding in 1877, four generations have continued the founder’s philosophy of patience, respect for nature, and time-honored winemaking methods. Today, four members of the fourth generation are deeply involved in the winery’s daily operations, ensuring that their heritage endures.
Recently our own Barbora had the pleasure of attending a masterclass with María José López de Heredia, that featured a number of their celebrated wines. Organized by wine importer and reseller Andre Kerstens the event took place at Hemel en Aarde in Utrecht.
Sustainable Vineyards with Deep Roots
López de Heredia’s vineyards are managed organically, with unirrigated, bush-trained vines. Many of these old vineyards contain vines whose roots can reach as deep as 30 meters, accessing vital minerals and water from deep underground. The family is committed to letting the vineyards regenerate naturally. In fact, they don’t make wine from large portions of their land, as some plots are fallowed to rejuvenate the soil, while others are deemed too young to produce grapes of the necessary quality. This patience is central to their philosophy, reflected in every bottle of wine they produce.
Traditional Vinification and Aging
In the winery, tradition continues to guide the production process. The deep cellars, carved into natural sandstone, provide a naturally regulated environment for aging wine. With up to 13,000 barrels holding more than 10 vintages at a time, López de Heredia’s cellars are a testament to their dedication to time-honored methods. Fermentation is carried out with wild yeast, and malolactic fermentation occurs spontaneously, without inoculation.
Uniquely, the winery operates its own cooperage, where they focus on maintaining and restoring their barrels. To minimize the influence of new oak on the wines, they carefully repair old barrels, and when necessary, source wood from long-standing suppliers in the Appalachian Mountains of the U.S. This wood is aged for at least two years in Spain before being made into barrels.
The Art of Blending and Vintage
Blending plays a crucial role in shaping the final profile of many López de Heredia wines. Historically, vintage dating was less emphasized than it is today, and blending across different years was a common practice used to balance flavors and enhance complexity. While this blending technique is still permitted in many wine regions (usually up to 15% of a blend), it is often done discreetly. López de Heredia, however, proudly continues this tradition, especially with their Crianza wines, using it as a tool to achieve greater depth and balance.
In contrast, their Gran Reserva wines are the exception. These wines are always a reflection of a single vintage and are produced only in the very best years, ensuring they showcase the unique character of that particular growing season. This commitment to vintage-specific production highlights the winery’s respect for both tradition and the nuances of exceptional years.
Flight 1: White Wines
White wines make up only about 10% of López de Heredia’s production, and the yields for white grapes are low, often around 2,500 kg/ha due to the high age of the vines.
Viña Gravonia 2015
Historically known as Viña Zaconia, this vineyard once produced botrytized sweet wines, inspired by Sauternes. Covering 24 hectares of gravelly soils, it is entirely planted with Viura grapes. Aged for 4 years in barriques, this wine showcases oxidative notes with aromas of bruised apple, earthy tones, and hints of mushrooms and walnuts evoking autumn scents.
We reward this wine with a 93-point DWA score.
Viña Tondonia Blanco Reserva 2021
A blend of Viura with a small percentage of Malvasia, aged 6 years in barrique. This wine offers a vibrant acidity that contrasts beautifully with the richness of golden pear, quince, and almond flavors. The finish shows dried herbs and hint of marzipan.
We reward this wine with a 95-point DWA score.
Viña Tondonia Blanco Gran Reserva 2001
Produced only in exceptional years, this wine is aged for a minimum of 10 years in wood and another 10 years in the bottle. It exhibits a smoky, reductive nose with lively acidity that balances flavors of yellow apple and preserved lemon. Full-bodied yet refreshing, it is a masterpiece of complexity.
We reward this wine with a 97-point DWA score.
Bonus wine: Viña Tondonia Rosado 2012
A rare release, made only in exceptional vintages for both red and white grapes. A blend of Garnacha, Tempranillo, and a touch of Viura, this rosé has a deep wild salmon color, with aromas of cedar smoke and dried raspberries. With a smooth, structured palate, this wine is both complex and harmonious.
We reward this wine with a 95-point DWA score.
Flight 2: Red Wines
Viña Cubillo 2016
From 24 hectares of clay-calcareous soils, this vineyard produces only black grape varieties. Aged for 3 years in wood, this is the Crianza of López de Heredia, intended for local consumption. It presents chocolaty tannins with dense fruit flavors, making it approachable and balanced.
We reward this wine with a 90-point DWA score.
Viña Bosconia Tinto Reserva 2013
Inspired by Burgundy, the Viña Bosconia vineyard is 15 hectares of south-facing clay-calcareous soils. Aged for 5 years in oak, this wine often incorporates fruit from multiple vintages, offering bright acidity with darker red and black fruit aromas along with savory and earthy notes.
We reward this wine with a 93-point DWA score.
Viña Bosconia Tinto Gran Reserva 2001
Aged for no less than 6 years in wood followed by 10 years in the bottle, this wine is always from a single vintage. This wine brings bouquet of red currants and darker red fruits. With leather, balsamic notes, and chalky tannins, it has a meaty, iron-like edge on the finish. It’s a wine that captures the essence of slow, patient aging, with the flavors perfectly integrated, showcasing the winery’s dedication to traditional methods.
We reward this wine with a 96-point DWA score.
Flight 3: Tondonia Reds
The Viña Tondonia vineyard, which covers 100 hectares, produces some of the most iconic López de Heredia wines.
Viña Tondonia Tinto Reserva 2012
This wine displays well-developed flavors, with soft tannins and notes of dried figs, dates, and a robust backbone of acidity. The wine is well-integrated, with harmonious balance between fruit and tannins, making it a beautiful expression of López de Heredia’s timeless approach to Rioja reds.
We reward this wine with a 92-point DWA score.
Viña Tondonia Tinto Reserva 2001 (Late Release)
Denser than the Gran Reserva of the same vintage, this wine has a savory, earthy finish that adds complexity to its rich fruit profile.
We reward this wine with a 96-point DWA score.
Viña Tondonia Tinto Gran Reserva 2001
This is the epitome of López de Heredia’s philosophy of slow aging and tradition. Aged for 6 years in wood and at least 10 years in bottle, this wine offers incredible complexity. With softer tannins and a more pronounced acidity compared to the Late Release Reserva, this wine is fresh yet deeply integrated, showcasing the best of what López de Heredia has to offer—balance, depth, and extraordinary aging potential.
We reward this wine with a 97-point DWA score.
A Legacy of Patience and Perfection: The Timeless Craft of López de Heredia
In conclusion, López de Heredia stands as a beacon of tradition in the world of winemaking, blending time-honored techniques with an unwavering commitment to quality and sustainability. The winery’s dedication to organic vineyard practices, patient vinification methods, and meticulous barrel aging results in wines that are not only a reflection of the land but also a testament to the family’s philosophy of slow, thoughtful production. Whether through their unique approach to blending, their careful vintage-specific Gran Reservas, or their rare and exceptional white wines, López de Heredia’s portfolio is a celebration of Rioja’s rich heritage and timeless elegance. With each bottle, the López de Heredia family invites wine lovers to experience the fruits of generations of craftsmanship, where tradition truly meets timeless winemaking.
This article is written by our own Barbora Peterikova. López de Heredia is imported in the Netherlands by Andre Kerstens, and available directly or at selected partners. We would like to thank María José López de Heredia of López de Heredia and Andre Kerstens for this excellent tasting and the great wines, as well as their collaboration with us on this article.