Domaine Cassagne et Vitailles: A Languedoc Jewel with Timeless Elegance.
We recently had the pleasure of attending a Masterclass hosted by Pallas Wines, showcasing the exceptional wines of Domaine Cassagne et Vitailles. Marie Pittet, Head of Sales at this Languedoc gem, introduced us to the winery’s impressive portfolio. Despite being a newcomer, Cassagne et Vitailles carries bold ambitions, embodied by their powerful mantra: Grands Vins du Languedoc.
Montpeyroux: The Medieval Gem and Home to Domaine Cassagne et Vitailles
Only 35 kilometers west from Montpellier and 30 kilometers north of the Mediterranean Sea, one will run into the tiny, medieval town of Montpeyroux. Perched upon Mons Petrosus, after which it was named, the village is inhabited by approximately 350 people. Situated just a little south of the town, are Domaine Cassagne et Vitailles, where wines of paradoxical nature are vinified by two long term friends and their outstanding team; the wines are grand and intense, yet they show elegance and precision, a superb display of the ultimate balance Matthieu Rollin and Nicolas Seffusati so eagerly strive towards.
The (bio)dynamic duo, hailing from the marvelous city of Montpellier, studied in the USA, set up an import company of french wines in China and returned home after ten years to chase their childhood dream of making Grands Vins in the Languedoc region. Only a year after the establishment of the Terrasses du Larzac AOC, Domaine Cassagne et Vitailles were born and by the end of the following year, 2016, they concluded their first vintage of winemaking.
Garrigue Elegance: The Terroir and Philosophy of Domaine Cassagne et Vitailles
Languedocian lavender, rosemary, and thyme fields subtly influence the wines in true garrigue-style and should be considered part of the great terroir of Domaine Cassagne et Vitailles. In total, they possess 9.88 hectares of vineyards, their plots scattered around the town of Montpeyroux at about 300 meters above sea level, where the soil generally consists of calcareous clay. As of now, no future plans have been made to expand their territory; Domaine Cassagne et Vitailles prefer quality over quantity and precision over profit. With the steep increase in demand for their wines from eleven different cuvees, they have no other option but to sell their wines on allocation.
The vines are relatively old, at an average age of 30 to 35 years. The major exception being the vineyard where the vieux carignan has been so aggressively dominating since 1954, that it prevents younger vines from properly taking root in the soil. In the vineyards, farming is done with minimal intervention, organically and biodynamically; one might even encounter herds of cows and flocks of sheep visiting the vineyards in search of that sweet summer pasture after spring.
Crafting Excellence: Late Harvests and Precision Winemaking
The manual harvest is conducted much later than in the – nowadays – typical month of August, as vines shut down in the summer months during the day, due to the scorching temperatures Terrasses du Larzac endures. This only allows the grapes to ripen for about eight to nine hours at night, prolonging the ripening period to approximately the first week of November. Yields are intentionally kept lower than permitted within the Terrasses du Larzac AOC, at around 30 to 35 hectoliters per hectare. At times, workers re-enter the vineyards multiple times during harvest, rigorously in search of perfectly matured grapes.
Post harvest, minimal intervention continues in the cellar, where whole bunch fermentation reigns and different plots are vinified separately, before being blended into one of the eleven well-balanced cuvees, or moving on as one of themonocépage wines. Domaine Cassagne et Vitailles work with a few tonnelleries from Burgundy and Bordeaux, and pride themselves most in their cooperation with Tonnelerie Chassin from Beaune, who supply casks of superb quality that take the wines to the next level.
A Tasting Journey: Exploring the Cuvees of Domaine Cassagne et Vitailles
In total, we tasted seven out of eleven of the cuvees from Domaine Cassagne et Vitailles over four flights. The first flight solely included Combarels de l’Ombre. The second consisted of Nimalaya Vieux Carignan, Les Chausmes and Clas Mani. The third flight brought us Les Crouzets and Les Homs. The last flight, wholly in Burgundian spirit, from where Matthieu and Nicolas draw inspiration, gave us Combarels Blanc, as finishing tastings with white wine occurs so often in Burgundy.
Unfortunately, we did not taste their têtes de cuvée, Pesoul and Pendut, as grapes for both wines only bring forth 200 to 250 bottles per vintage. We certainly look forward to tasting both wines one day.
2022 Combarels de l’Ombre | Terrasses du Larzac AOC
An assemblage of Grenache and Syrah of vines from calcareous clay. Cold fermentation, of which 50% whole bunch, all in stainless-steel tanks.
A very fruit-forward wine, with a refreshing acidity, mild and velvety tannins, and a lean body. Wonderfully balanced, yet intense and complex with a long-lasting finish. Aromas of ripe cherries and red berries, lavender and rosemary, and a hint of black pepper.
We reward this wine with a 90-point DWA score (MC).
2022 Nimalaya Vieux Carignan | Vin de France
This wine is named after the four people who were present at the very beginning of Domaine Cassagne et Vitailles: Nicolas, Matthieu, Paula and Yannick. Made entirely with carignan from old vines that were planted in 1954. As aforementioned, these old vines treat newcomers inhospitably, causing the new vines to wither before they fully take root into the soil. As these older vines inevitably will start deteriorating one day, Marie estimates that we might only have fifteen to twenty more vintages ahead of us for this delicious wine.
The only wine coming from blue marl soil in this lineup. 50% whole bunch fermentation in stainless steel. Aged for 80% in stainless steel and 20% demi-muids and no new oak was used.
This wine definitely packs a punch. With slightly higher alcohol, medium acidity and medium, sandy tannins, the body is more noticeable. Yet, the wine does not lose its elegance, with notes of ripe blue- and blackberries, sandalwood, nutmeg and rosemary. Beautifully complex and a great finish.
We reward this wine with a 90-point DWA score (MC).
2021 Les Chausmes | Montpeyroux AOC
80% Syrah and 20% Grenache. The Syrah comes from a plot at a higher altitude in the Montpeyroux AOC, which was already classified as an appellation back in 1985. The Syrah grapes are a massale selection clone of the archaic serine from the Northern Rhône, grafted onto Syrah rootstocks. The soil consists of calcareous clay. The grape varieties were separately vinified. After vinification, the wines were already blended and wines from two to five distinct plots then filled the Chassin Barrels for aging.
A medium bodied wine with lots of ripe and velvety tannins, balanced out by the higher acidity and moderate levels of alcohol. Rosemary, cherries, eucalyptus and ripe cherries and strawberries on the nose.
We reward this wine with a 92-point DWA score (MC).
2020 Clas Mani | Terrasses du Larzac AOC
A signature wine bottled under the Terrasses du Larzac appellation, made of Syrah, Carignan and Grenache. Soils consist of calcareous clay. Vinified in stainless steel and then aged in Chassin barrels for 30 months. Use of new oak is avoided if possible.
Elegant beauty of a wine, well-balanced by soft tannins, intensity of fruit and great acidity. Aromatic profile of sandalwood, ripe strawberries, raspberries, nutmeg, lavender and a hint of toast.
We reward this wine with a 94-point DWA score (MC).
2021 Les Crouzets | Vin de France
Bottled under the Vin de France designation, for no red monocepage wines are allowed within the regulations of Languedoc appellations, this wine is made of a 100% grenache. Hailing from a 500-meter wide plot, with a soil composition of sandstone. Fermentation was done in stainless steel tanks.
A silky smooth wine with nearly absent, ripe tannins, great acidity, complexity and balance. Notes of potpourri, rose petals, ripe raspberries and cherries, along with a touch of lavender fill the glass. A terrifically delicious wine.
We reward this wine with a 95-point DWA score (MC).
2021 Les Homs | Vin de France
The grapes are harvested late and come from a plot with soil of calcareous clay. Vinification was slowly done in concrete eggs and completed in about 40 to 45 days, after which the wine was aged for six to 8 more months in concrete eggs.
Yet another terrific wine of 100% grenache. Racy acidity combined with velvety tannins. Beautifully complex with hints of rose petals, ripe strawberry, cranberries and bay leaf.
We reward this wine with a 95-point DWA score (MC).
2023 Combarels Blanc | Pays d’Oc IGP
A blend of 70% Chardonnay, 25% Viognier and 5% Colombard. Vinified in stainless steel tanks and then aged for six to eight months on fine lees in oak barrels. As of the 2023 vintage, malolactic conversion is avoided.
Refreshing and lively, this wine has a medium body with sharp acidity and moderate levels of alcohol. Aromas of ripe, yellow apples and apricot, elderflower and nutmeg.
We reward this wine with a 89-point DWA score (MC).
Mastering Languedoc: The Unmissable Wines of Domaine Cassagne et Vitailles
The masterclass of Domaine Cassagne et Vitailles was a delightful event hosted by Pallas and Joep Speet Magister Vini. Marie Pittet gave us great insights of the winery, their terroir and naturally their wines. Seven out of eleven cuvées were tasted, and all showed beautifully in the glass. Perfectus in Statera, or roughly translated, perfection lies in balance, seems like a fitting credo for a winery so conscious of their surroundings and the manner in which they strive towards the ultimate balance in their winery, vineyards and wine.
Domaine Cassagne et Vitailles prove to the world that great wine can come from the Languedoc, and anyone who disagrees is seriously missing out on a spectacle. As allocations are little and demand is rising steeply, I suggest finding the closest wine shop that has Domaine Cassagne Vitailles on their shelves and try (and definitely buy) their delectable wines. One must be mad not to.
This article is written by our own Miquel Claase. The wines of Domaine Cassagne et Vitailles are imported in the Netherlands by Pallas Wines, and available through selected retail and hospitality partners. We thank Pallas Wines (in particular Joep Speet) and Domaine Cassagne et Vitailles (Marie Pittet) for the pleasant evening and great wines.
