Bibi Graetz presents his 2022 and 2023 stars.
Bibi Graetz has long been known for his unique approach to winemaking, blending artistic sensibility with a profound respect for the Tuscan terroir. His latest releases, the 2022 vintages of Testamatta and Colore, along with the 2023 Testamatta and Colore Bianco, embody this philosophy.
They showcase his dedication to crafting wines that transcend trends, focusing instead on the purity of the grape, the integrity of the land, and the creativity of the winemaker. In this report we discuss the newly released vintages, after a private tasting with Dutch importer Poot Agenturen.
A Journey Rooted in Art and Wine
Bibi Graetz’s approach to winemaking is steeped in his background as an artist. Coming from a family where creativity was the norm—his father and grandfather were artists—Graetz was destined for an artistic path. However, he found his own form of expression through wine. His wines are a blend of his artistic sensibilities and a deep respect for tradition, showcasing a balance between nature’s unpredictability and human artistry.
The Testamatta and Colore wines reflect this philosophy. Graetz’s journey into winemaking began with a family vineyard, where the annual harvest was a cultural event rather than a business. This familial tradition laid the foundation for Graetz’s winemaking ethos: a blend of passion, experimentation, and a desire to capture the essence of the Tuscan terroir.
The Story Behind the 2022 and 2023 Vintages
The 2022 vintage of Testamatta and Colore and the 2023 Testamatta and Colore Bianco tell a tale of resilience and innovation in the face of challenging conditions. While much of Europe faced an unprecedented attack of Peronospora in 2023, impacting yields significantly, Graetz’s team managed to navigate the adversity with a blend of skill and instinct. Their quick response, vigilance, and the advantageous location of their vineyards—particularly those on the windy Giglio Island—helped minimize the damage, resulting in a harvest that retained the quality Graetz’s wines are known for.
Graetz’s decision to focus on indigenous grape varieties, such as Ansonica for his whites, is part of what sets his wines apart. The Testamatta and Colore Bianco 2023 showcase the character of Ansonica, a grape known for its hard skin, which was traditionally used as a table grape due to its resilience. Graetz has been making wine from Ansonica long before it became fashionable, drawn to its unique potential and the distinctiveness it imparts to his wines. The 2023 vintage, though marked by difficult growing conditions, emerges as a testament to this grape’s ability to adapt and thrive, delivering wines with viscosity, richness, and a remarkable sense of place.
Testamatta and Colore: Two Philosophies, One Vision
Testamatta and Colore represent two distinct philosophies in winemaking. Testamatta emphasizes the freshness and purity of Sangiovese, sourced from vineyards in cooler climates, often north-facing and at higher altitudes. This results in a wine that bursts with red fruit and an energetic profile. Colore, on the other hand, is Graetz’s homage to the power of old vines and the complexity they bring. The vineyards for Colore, particularly in the renowned Lamole area, are considered some of the most beautiful and expressive in Tuscany.
Graetz approaches his craft with a painter’s mindset, blending different terroirs much like an artist mixes colors on a palette. This meticulous blending process can take up to six months, involving a team dedicated to finding the perfect expression of each vintage. The wines are a true reflection of their terroir and the hands that shape them, with minimal intervention—no green harvest, no bleeding, and only a touch of new oak where necessary to maintain the integrity of the wine.
A Review of the Wines
We had the opportunity to taste the newly released vintages during a private tasting session with Dutch importer Poot Agenturen. Below an impression of our findings, including our ratings for the wines.
2022 Testamatta
The 2022 Testamatta is a pure expression of Sangiovese, showcasing the freshness and elegance that this grape can achieve in the right hands. Sourced from cooler, north-facing vineyards at high altitudes, the wine opens with a vibrant bouquet of red fruits—cherries, raspberries, and hints of wild strawberries—interwoven with floral notes of violet and a subtle hint of spice. On the palate, it is lively and energetic, with bright acidity that brings a sense of lift to the concentrated fruit flavors. The tannins are fine and well-integrated, providing structure without overwhelming the wine’s natural finesse. This vintage of Testamatta captures the essence of the Tuscan terroir while retaining an elegance that is both approachable now and promising for aging.
DWA Score 97/100
2022 Colore
Colore 2022 is a testament to Graetz’s passion for old vines and the complexities they bring. This wine is sourced from some of the most beautiful and expressive vineyards in Tuscany, particularly the renowned Lamole area. On the nose, it offers a complex tapestry of dark fruits—blackberries, plums, and black cherries—layered with earthy undertones, hints of tobacco, and a touch of Mediterranean herbs. The palate is rich and full-bodied, yet it maintains a surprising freshness, a hallmark of Graetz’s wines. The tannins are velvety, adding depth and a lingering finish that echoes with notes of dark chocolate, licorice, and a mineral salinity. Colore 2022 is a wine of power and refinement, reflecting both the land it comes from and the meticulous care of its creation.
DWA Score 98/100
2023 Testamatta Bianco
Testamatta Bianco 2023 is an Ansonica-driven wine that embodies the unique character of the Giglio Island terroir. The nose is aromatic and inviting, with notes of ripe apricots, white peaches, and a distinctive hint of sea breeze, capturing the maritime influence of the vineyards. There is an underlying minerality that suggests crushed stones and wet granite. On the palate, it is textural and layered, showing a beautiful balance between its rich, waxy mouthfeel and a vibrant acidity that keeps the wine lively and refreshing. Flavors of citrus zest, honeydew melon, and a subtle salinity make this a wine of great complexity and finesse. It is both generous and precise, a testament to Graetz’s ability to harness the power of Ansonica in its purest form.
DWA Score 95/100
2023 Colore Bianco
The 2023 Colore Bianco offers a more profound, concentrated expression of Ansonica. The nose is opulent, with intense aromas of orange blossom, ripe orchard fruits, and a hint of savory herbs. There is a depth here that speaks of old vines and low yields, with layers of aroma unfolding as the wine opens in the glass. On the palate, it is full-bodied and richly textured, with a creamy mouthfeel that is balanced by a backbone of acidity and a distinct saline note that speaks of the sea. Flavors of baked apple, quince, and a touch of almond come together in a long, harmonious finish. This wine is both powerful and elegant, showcasing the remarkable potential of Ansonica when nurtured with skill and respect for its origins.
DWA Score 97/100
Looking to the Future
Graetz’s wines are more than just a product of the land; they are a narrative of his journey, his challenges, and his relentless pursuit of expressing Tuscany’s essence. The 2022 and 2023 vintages, despite the hurdles of climate and disease, stand as a celebration of this journey. With Testamatta and Colore, Graetz has crafted wines that are immediately approachable yet possess the structure and complexity to age gracefully.
The release of these vintages highlights Graetz’s commitment to pushing the boundaries of Tuscan winemaking, focusing on elegance, freshness, and authenticity. As Graetz himself puts it, each bottle is meant to evoke a reaction, to make those who taste it say, “Wow, this is something.” With his art-inspired labels, Graetz captures not only the wine within but also the emotion and story behind each vintage.
In a world where trends often drive winemaking, Bibi Graetz continues to carve his own path, guided by an unwavering vision and a profound respect for the land and its traditions. The 2022 Testamatta and Colore and the 2023 Testamatta and Colore Bianco are more than just new releases; they are a statement of Graetz’s artistic journey and his dedication to creating wines that transcend time and fashion.
If you would like to read more about Bibi Graetz you can find an in-dept article (including reviews of last year’s Testamatta and Colore) published by us here. We also recorded a personal 1:1 interview with Bibi, which can be found here.
We would like to thank Bibi Graetz and Poot Agenturen for the opportunity to review the new vintages. Bibi’s wines are available through selected retail partners, associated with Poot Agenturen.
