When you have the opportunity to attend a Masterclass featuring the iconic wines of Weingut Künstler you don’t hesitate but sign-up as quick as you can! During this year’s Wine Professional fair our Kazumi Uejo was lucky enough to sit down with Gunter Künstler and shares her insights with you.
Wine Professional, one of the most prestigious wine events in the Netherlands, has been held annually since 2003. Organized by The Wine & Food Association, it serves as a cornerstone of the Dutch wine industry’s calendar. Known for its renowned masterclasses and exclusive wine pairings, it is a must-attend event for wine professionals and enthusiasts alike.
This year’s edition offered an exceptional opportunity to attend masterclasses led by world-renowned winemakers. Among these was the highly anticipated session on Weingut Künstler, a celebrated winery from Germany’s Rheingau region, presented by its Dutch importer, Anfors Imperial.
The Künstler family has a winemaking tradition spanning over 370 years. Due to the upheavals of World War II, Franz Künstler relocated the family estate to Hochheim am Main in the Rheingau, reestablishing it in 1965. In 1988, the current winemaker and his son, Gunter Künstler, took charge of the cellar after earning his degree from Geisenheim University. Under his leadership, the estate has focused on sustainable viticulture and expressing the terroir of its vineyards.
The family’s philosophy emphasizes minimal intervention, preserving the unique characteristics of each vineyard in every bottle. Their portfolio is dominated by Riesling and Spätburgunder, which thrive in the Rheingau’s distinctive microclimates and soils. Gunter’s meticulous attention to detail, both in the vineyard and the cellar, has earned Künstler wines accolades from critics worldwide. The estate joined the VDP (Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter) in 1994 and has since received multiple 100-point ratings from prominent critics.
Today, Weingut Künstler manages 50.5 hectares of vineyards, including eight VDP.Grosse Lage sites. Riesling accounts for 80% of their plantings, with Spätburgunder making up 14.8%. At the masterclass, attendees were treated to an exceptional vertical tasting of Hochheimer Hölle vintages
Hochheimer Hölle, one of Rheingau’s most prized vineyards, lies on a gentle slope overlooking the Main River. Despite its ominous name, which translates to “Hell,” the vineyard’s heavy clay soils are a blessing for winemakers.
“Once considered the most expensive wine in the world, Riesling from this vineyard captured the hearts of England’s elite during the 19th century. Hochheimer wines were priced significantly higher than renowned French Bordeaux and Burgundies,” Gunter Künstler shared.
Hochheimer Hölle benefits from unique geographical and climatic conditions. The heavy clay soil retains up to 64% water, ensuring consistent hydration for vines during dry seasons. This enhances the wine’s structure and aging potential. The Rhine River acts as a natural mirror, reflecting sunlight onto the vineyards and boosting photosynthesis. These factors are critical for developing the vibrant acidity and flavors characteristic of Riesling.
Gunter Künstler shared his passionate philosophy of winemaking, deeply rooted in tradition and minimal intervention. Only the highest-quality berries are selected through hand-harvesting. Large oak barrels, some over 100 years old, are used for fermentation to facilitate micro-oxidation without imparting an oaky taste.
“Skin contact captures the essence of the vintage—the sunshine, rainfall, and challenges of the growing season,” Gunter explained. How romantic. Wines need time to reveal their full potential, but when they do, they unfold like a well-told story.
At the masterclass, attendees sampled a vertical tasting of single vineyard Rieslings from Hochheimer Hölle VDP.GROSSE LAGE. This included the vintages: 2023, 2022, 2021, 2020, 2019, 2018, 2016, 2007 and 1997 (labeled as an Auslese Trocken). These tastings offered insights into how these wines evolved over time.
2023 Hochheimer Hölle Riesling G.G. Trocken: A youthful wine brimming with potential. The cooler season resulted in a balanced structure, with high acidity complementing its richness. Aromas of yellow apple, pear, and lemon peel lead to a pure and precise palate with racy acidity and a long, salty finish. DWA Score: 99-points
2022 Hochheimer Hölle Riesling G.G. Trocken: Marked by a hot summer, this vintage presented earthy and rich tones. Ripe stone fruits like peach and apricot, with a hint of pineapple on the nose. The palate is opulent, with integrated acidity and a satisfying finish. DWA Score: 96-points
2021 Hochheimer Hölle Riesling G.G. Trocken: Similar to 2023, this vintage was shaped by a cooler and wetter season. Vibrant and balanced, it reflects the classic Rheingau style. Notes of yellow apple, peach, citrus, and honey are balanced on the palate, with vibrant acidity and a long, mineral finish. Precise. DWA Score: 98-points
2020 Hochheimer Hölle Riesling G.G. Trocken: This vintage symbolized resilience during the COVID year. Despite logistical challenges, the weather provided balanced rainfall and sunshine. The wine is still restrained, with aromas of peach, citrus, and wet stones. Racy acidity and a clear structure define the palate. DWA Score: 95-points
2019 Hochheimer Hölle Riesling G.G. Trocken: Heavy rainfall during harvest required careful selection. The wine exhibits earthy characteristics and a richer body, with notes of ripe green fruits, citrus peel, honey, and spices, with lively acidity and compact finish. DWA Score: 96-points
2018 Hochheimer Hölle Riesling G.G. Trocken: Ideal growing conditions produced a vintage that was tight and refractive in its youth. Now unfolding its full potential, it exudes intense exotic fruits like pineapple and sweet spices. Powerful and mouth-filling, with integrated acidity and a satisfying finish. DWA Score: 96-points
2016 Hochheimer Hölle Riesling G.G. Trocken: Bit muted on the nose. Ripe yellow peach, pineapple, honey, and hay on the nose. Gentrle, integrated on the palate with fresh, juicy acidity. DWA Score: 96-points
2007 Hochheimer Hölle Riesling G.G. Trocken: Enormous body and structure resulted from balanced rainfall and a long Indian summer. Ripe yellow fruits, honey, mushroom, toast, and hay bring remarkable complexity. Vibrant acidity adds structure. DWA Score: 98-points
1997 Hochheimer Hölle Riesling Trocken Auslese: 1997 Hochheimer Hölle Riesling Auslese Trocken (Auslese trocken is used for wines sourced from very ripe grapes without botrytis, which are not allowed to be labeled as GG by the VDP, hence this bottle wasn’t labeled as GG): Hailed as nearly perfect, this vintage showcases complexity and depth from aging. Notes of honey, hay, petrol, and dried apricot are supported by vibrant acidity, with further aging potential. DWA Score: 98-points
The masterclass on Weingut Künstler was a revelation, showcasing the estate’s dedication to crafting wines of unparalleled quality. Rieslings from Hochheimer Hölle embody energy, finesse, and remarkable longevity. For connoisseurs seeking wines that marry tradition with innovation, Künstler’s offerings are an essential addition to any cellar.
As the event concluded, attendees left with a deeper appreciation for the artistry behind each bottle. Weingut Künstler’s Rieslings, much like the stories shared during the masterclass, will undoubtedly resonate for years to come.
This article was written by our own Kazumi Uejo (@kazuming.wine.food). We extend our gratitude to Künstler‘s importer Anfors Imperial and Gunter Künstler for their informative presentation and warm hospitality. Picture credits: Weingut Künstler and Dutch Wine Apprentice
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