Rioja Reflections: The Diversity of Spain’s Most Famous Wine Region.

Rioja is a region that’s familiar to every wine lover, but there’s much more to it than meets the eye. While in decades past it was famous for its heavily oaked Tempranillo-based blends, nowadays Rioja is home to many different styles: from traditional method sparkling to vintage rosado to modern monovarietal reds. On 18 November 2024, Dutch Wine Apprentice was invited by AliceBown Agency to Studio Noorderfabriek in Amsterdam Noord to learn more about this fascinating wine region and the sheer diversity that exists within it.

A hundred kilometres of diversity

The all-day event, attended by some 60 wine professionals, was introduced by Peter Arijs: a wine educator, consultant and project manager representing the Consejo Regulador DOCa Rioja. He kicked off by sharing some facts and figures about this huge region, which stretches for 100 kilometres along both banks of the Ebro River in northern Spain, flanked by the Sierra de Cantabria and Sierra de la Demanda mountains. “Rioja is not a wine style but a wine country,” explained Peter. Although Rioja has just three designated sub-regions – Rioja Alta to the west, Rioja Alavesa to the east, and Rioja Oriental to the north – in reality the terroir differs so much within each that it would make sense to recognise dozens more. 

While vine-growing in Rioja dates back over 1,000 years, the region was granted its status as the first Denominación de Origen (DO) in Spain in 1925 – almost exactly a century ago. And it became the first Spanish region to achieve the prestigious Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOCa) status in 1991. “In Rioja, wine is everything” is an oft-repeated mantra, but it’s true: wine is still the region’s main source of income; provenance and quality are extremely important; and the region’s regulations have ensured excellence at levels that continue to improve with every passing year. 

Nowadays, the region permits 14 grape varieties and produces wines in a multitude of different styles. And since 2017, it’s started creating traditional method sparkling wines that are aged for at least 15 months on their lees (there’s even a “Gran Añada” category for 36+ months aged wines), made from grapes that are resolutely not those used to produce Cava. In other words, while Rioja may be the oldest wine region in Spain, it’s certainly still evolving.

Expressions of Terroir: Rioja’s regions versus a new classification

The first masterclass of the day was led by Master of Wine Cees van Casteren, whose passion for the region and its wine is apparent: “For me, Rioja is the most attractive region to visit in Europe,” he enthused before getting down to details.

Historically, Cees explained, wine would stay in American oak barrels until it was sold. Winemakers noticed that some wines seemed better suited to spending longer periods in oak than others, which was where the whole Generic-Crianza-Reserva-Gran Reserva ageing classification system came from.

Around the end of the 20th century and beginning of the 21st, the “modernist” winemakers started experimenting with a new style of red wine: fermentation at lower temperatures, maturation in French rather than American oak, moving away from small barriques, and generally prioritising fruit flavours over oak influences. But of course, this had repercussions when it came to the existing classification system. In the wake of this, the “Generic” classification is used by wine makers who want to show their products are terroir-driven rather than meeting the requirements for oak ageing.

Speaking of terroir, Cees expanded on Rioja’s varied terrain: “the three sub-regions are political, not based on things like soil or climate,” he explained. In reality, of course, there are differences in altitude, temperature, soil and so on within each sub-region. Not to mention the differences between “Atlantic years” (cooler vintages) and “Mediterranean years” (warmer vintages).

All of which brings us to the Rioja Terroir Matrix: a system that overlays the old ageing requirements with a new way of classifying wines according to smaller and smaller sub-regions (more like the classification system in Burgundy, for instance). 

• Viñedo Singular (single vineyard) – grapes must come from an individual vineyard that’s at least 35 years old; there are strict regulations on yield and manual harvesting.
• Vinos de Pueblo (village wine) – at least 85% of grapes must come from the village (or “pueblo”), with 15% permitted from neighbouring villages.
• Vinos de Zona (zonal wine) – at least 85% of grapes must come from the designated zone, with 15% permitted from neighbouring zones.

In the masterclass we tasted five red Rioja’s that are all classified as “Generic” – three of which are zonal wines, one a village wine and one from a single vineyard. Below our tasting notes for the wines, including our ratings.

2020 Señorio de Cuzcurrita | Castillo de Cuzcurrita | Vinos de Zona (Rioja Alta) | 100% Tempranillo

Pure Tempranillo are vinified through alcoholic fermentation in stainless-steel and matured in French barriques (a mix of ages) for 12 months and in large concrete vats for 5 months.

Red and black berry, plum, blueberry is accentuated by its spice layer (licorice, clove, wood) and balsamic notes. Smooth, juicy mouthfeel, with silky soft tannins and fresh acidity. Gentle finish with aromatic persistence. Balanced modern style.

We reward this wine with a 91-point DWA score (KU).

2021 Propiedad | J. Palacios Remondo | Vinos de Zona (Rioja Oriental) | Garnacha & Other varieties 

Sourced from old vines ranging from 30 to 94 years of age, this wine is fermented in oak barrels, followed by aging for 12 months in foudres and 600L bocoyes.

Fresh, pure, and juicy aromas of red strawberry candied red cherry, black cherry, orange peel, and Mediterranean spiced fruits. On the palate, it’s juicy and vibrant, with a silky texture balanced by lively acidity and fine tannins. 

We reward this wine with a 93-point DWA score (KU).

2018 Valserrano Finca Monteviejo | Viñedos y Bodegas de la Marquesa | Vinos de Zona (Rioja Alavesa) | 95% Tempranillo & 5% Graciano + Garnacha

Sourced from old vines averaging 70 years, grown at high altitudes (400-600 m). Extended skin maceration, fermentation in barrels, and 26 months of aging in new oak barrels.

Pronounced aromas of red and black berries, cherries, and dried fig, complemented by distinctive oak-derived notes of mixed spices, clove, nutmeg, smoke, ceder, charred wood, tobacco. Powerful and dense, with layers of complexity balanced by a refined acidity and soft tannins. Elegant, refreshing finish by its acidity.

We awarded this wine a 92-point DWA score (KU).

2019 Tierra Fidel | Bodegas Tierra | Village Wine | 50% Garnacha Tinta & 50% Graciano

The Garnacha and Graciano grapes are sourced from two specific vineyards, “Espilver” and “El Convento”, both planted in 1987. Alcoholic and malolactic fermentation in American oak barrels, followed by aging in new 500-liter American oak barrels. Traditional style.

Sweet fruit aromas of red berries, blueberries, and blackberries, intertwined with sweet spices like clove, cinnamon, and vanilla, as well as hints of resin and dried herbs. Opulent and well-structured, with vibrant acidity and fine, powdery tannins. The wine finishes with an earthy touch, adding depth to its playful character.

We awarded this wine a 93-point DWA score (KU).

2021 Finca Valdechuecas | Bodega Hacienda López de Haro | 90% Garnacha Tinta & 10% Others

A field blend in very old vineyards (100 years old) of El Pacto Valdechuecas. 

Alcoholic fermentation in concrete vats to preserve its purity and freshness, followed by 12 months of aging in 24hL used foudres, allowing the flavours to integrate.

Complex and depth. Red and black berries, spices, and graphite, complemented by well-integrated wood and balsamic nuances. Impressive depth and weight on the mid-palate, supported by mouthwatering acidity and fine-grained tannins. Long and persistent finish.

We awarded this wine an outstanding 95-point DWA score (KU).

White Rioja: from Viura to Verdejo

After a quick “break” in which participants answered an interactive quiz while sipping on a glass of Rioja’s sparkling blanc de noirs, the second masterclass was underway – with Guillaume Coret at the helm. The subject? White Rioja: a category that only accounts for 9% of the region’s planted grapes, but nonetheless is increasing in popularity. 

Historically, Viura (aka Macabeo) dominated white Rioja, and its neutral flavour was commonly supplemented with extended ageing in American oak to provide a richer profile. Although it’s worth noting that two other “historic” grape varieties – Garnacha Blanca and the semi-aromatic Malvasía – were also permitted. More recently, regulatory changes in 2017 allowed new grapes to be used – including indigenous varieties Tempranillo Blanco, Maturana Blanca and Turruntés, as well as international varieties Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Verdejo. Today, nine white grapes are permitted in Rioja and, though they’re frequently blended, there are some monovarietal whites as well. 

The same age classification system (Generic, Crianza, Reserva, Gran Reserva) applies to white Rioja as it does to red, albeit with different age requirements per category. In practice, however, white Rioja has evolved away from heavily oaked styles and is now broadly represented by three distinct styles: young, unoaked wines; oak-aged, long-lasting wines; and modern, terroir-driven wines in which oak appears only in the background. 

During the masterclass, we tasted five white Riojas, from a young, unoaked, monovarietal newly approved varieties to an oak-aged Viura-led blend that’s no less than 14 years old. Below our tasting notes for the wines, including our ratings.

2021 Queiron Mi Lugar | Bodegas Queiron | 100% Tempranillo Blanco

Rioja’s newly approved indigenous grape variety, Tempranillo Blanco, hails from the Rioja Oriental region. Innovative experimentation, with weekly adjustments to fermentation temperatures and the use of diverse vessel types, including a mix of barriques and amphorae, to enhance complexity.

Harmonious balance between freshness and oxidative notes. Fresh yellow apple, pineapple, bruised apple, yogurt, orange peel, and a hint of lemon, accented by oak notes like hazelnuts. Earthy and savory on the palate, with a textured mouthfeel and a pleasant phenolic bitterness, making it a highly gastronomic wine.

We awarded this wine an excellent 91-point DWA score (KU).

2021 Remirez De Ganuza | Bodegas Remirez De Ganuza | 70% Viura & Other varieties

Sourced from old vines planted in 1978, grown on limestone soils at an altitude of 600 meters. The vinification and aging process takes place in 225L and 228L French oak barrels, with 76% being new oak and 24% second-use barrels, for a duration of 6 months.

The wine displays an elegant profile, with aromas of yellow peach, apricot, lemon zest, and hay, enhanced by subtle hints of vanilla and hazelnuts. On the palate, it is creamy and well-balanced, showcasing a beautifully integrated texture reminiscent of fine Burgundy wines.

We awarded this wine an outstanding 93–point DWA score (KU).

2010 200 Monges | Bodegas Vinícola Real | 90% Viura & 10% Malvasía

Sourced from three special plots planted in 1940, 1969, and 1990 and only the finest grapes were selected for this wine. Mix use of French and American oak barrels. Additional 12 months aging in the bottle.

The wine boasts concentrated and complex aromas, seamlessly blending its fruit character with nuances from vinification. Ripe apricot, sweet spices (cinnamon), vanilla, yogurt, hay, honey, and hazelnuts are beautifully expressed. Full-bodied and richly textured, it offers depth on the mid-palate and concludes with a persistent, long finish.

We awarded this wine an outstanding 95-point DWA score (KU).

Conclusion: A True Taste of Diversity

After a lunch of tapas and networking, participants had the opportunity to explore a wide array of Rioja wines in various styles. With 114 wines available for tasting, the event offered a remarkable glimpse into the diversity of this historic wine region.

Notably, Rioja’s winemaking styles are evolving, with an evident commitment to embracing diversity and innovation. Here are some findings:

• Sparkling Wines: Rioja’s sparkling wines, crafted under stricter quality standards, will be positioning themselves as high-quality competitor to Cava. With a minimum aging requirement of 15 months (compared to Cava’s nine months), these sparkling wines exhibit a refined and focused style that emphasizes quality over quantity, appealing to wine enthusiasts seeking elegance.

• White Wines: A fresher, reductive style of white wine is emerging, characterized by more fruits-focused, creamy textures developed through extended lees aging and bâtonnage. This modern approach is a departure from the traditional oxidative style of Viura, offering a more polished expression of the region’s whites.

• Red Wines: Rioja’s red wines are also showcasing greater diversity, with both monovarietal and blended expressions gaining prominence. In particular, Garnacha-based wines from the Rioja Oriental sub-zone are standing out for their vibrancy and sophistication. These wines not only reflect the region’s ability to adapt to climate change but also highlight the potential for innovative and balanced styles.

Additionally, the zonal and village wines allows for greater flexibility in vinification, encouraging producers to experiment and express unique terroirs, away from aging period. The Viñedo Singular category aligns with the global trend toward terroir-driven wines, emphasizing the importance of origin and specificity in Rioja’s future.

Rioja Wine Academy

If you would like to learn more about the Rioja region there is a great way to do so. The Rioja Wine Academy offers a free, comprehensive learning program designed to explore the diversity of the Rioja region. This 144-hour online course caters to wine enthusiasts, connoisseurs, trade professionals, hospitality staff, and even educators, providing in-depth knowledge of Rioja’s rich heritage, diverse styles, and innovative winemaking practices. It’s an invaluable resource for anyone passionate about understanding this dynamic and evolving wine region.

This event showcased of Rioja highlighted the region’s ongoing evolution and its dedication to producing wines that balance tradition with innovation. Rioja continues to captivate and inspire us. There’s no looking away from this extraordinary region.

This article is written by our own Kazumi Uejo and Vicky Hampton. We would like to thank the Consejo Regulador Rioja DOCa and in particular Peter Arijs, as well as AliceBown Agency for the wonderful and inspiring event. We also thank the other presenters, MW Cees van Casteren and Tasting during the White Rioja Masterclass, presented by Guillaume Coret, as well as the producers, who contributed and participated with their wines. Picture credits: AliceBown Agency.