Clos de L’Obac: Crafting Exceptional Wines in Priorat’s Unique Terroir.
Tucked away in the rugged hills of Tarragona, just 100 kilometres south of Barcelona, the Priorat wine region is a hidden treasure celebrated for its unique terroir and rich history. This remarkable area experienced a transformative renaissance in the late 20th century, driven by passionate visionaries dedicated to reviving its once-thriving wine culture. A shining example of this revival is Clos de L’Obac, a winery that exemplifies the power of perseverance, innovation, and a deep passion for winemaking.
Recently, our own Sterre had the privilege of attending a winemaker lunch at Restaurant Badcuyp, hosted by Priorat Wines. The event featured the exceptional wines of Clos de L’Obac, paired with captivating stories and outstanding cuisine, making it a truly unforgettable experience.
The Roots of Priorat
Priorat’s history is steeped in the traditions of the Carthusian monks who arrived in the 13th century, establishing the Cartoixa d’Escaladei monastery. They cultivated the land, recognizing its potential for high-quality wines, but the region’s true renaissance would not come until centuries later. With its distinctive microclimate, characterized by dry summers and a lack of water (averaging only 200 to 600 litres of rainfall per square meter), Priorat became known for its minerality—a key factor that defines its wines today.
Guillem Pastrana, the current owner of Clos de L’Obac, shared how Priorat’s resurgence began in 1979, driven by the vision of his parents, Carles Pastrana and Mariona Jarque. These two idealists set out to revive the region’s winemaking heritage, fueled by a dream to craft wines that could rival the world’s finest. Their efforts transformed Priorat into a premier destination for exceptional wines.
A Family Legacy
The story of Clos de L’Obac is one of daring dreams. It begins with two hippies who believed they could produce exceptional wines. They focused on the Cariñena and Grenache varietals, often making pilgrimages to Bordeaux to learn from the masters. This commitment to excellence led them to adopt innovative techniques, such as aging wine in 225-liter French oak barrels—a practice that was unusual at the time.
Their first vintage, released in 1991, was met with scepticism. Despite the quality of their wines, they struggled to gain acceptance in a market reluctant to embrace the creations of newcomers. However, perseverance paid off when, in 1992, a blind tasting placed Clos de L’Obac among the top 20 wineries in Europe, sparking international interest.
The Philosophy of Craftsmanship
At Clos de L’Obac, winemaking is an art form that emphasizes quality over quantity. Each stage of production is meticulously crafted:
- Hand Harvesting: Every grape is harvested by hand, ensuring that only the best fruit enters the winemaking process.
- Fixed Cuvée System: Since their inception, they have employed a consistent blending technique, maintaining the same varietals in fixed percentages for their wines, allowing for remarkable vertical tastings that showcase the evolution of their wines over time.
- Patient Aging: Clos de L’Obac wines are only released when they are ready. Reds undergo a minimum of 12 months in French oak, followed by extensive aging in the bottle, sometimes exceeding a decade. This dedication to patience results in wines that are complex and expressive.
- Authentic Creation: With a focus on crafting wines that resonate with their own philosophy, Clos de L’Obac eschews mass tastings and journalism, ensuring that their creations are for genuine wine lovers.
Signature Wines
The winery’s portfolio includes a range of exceptional wines, each reflecting the unique terroir of Priorat:
- Kyrie: A white wine that showcases the minerality of Priorat, made from a blend of Xarel-lo, Macabeu, Grenache, and Muscat. Its elegance and balance make it a favourite among Michelin-starred restaurants.
- Clos de L’Obac: A red that captures the essence of the region, combining Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha, Cariñena, Merlot, and Syrah. Its aging potential allows for exploration of its evolving character over years.
- Misere: A European-style red, blending various varietals that offer a different perspective on the region’s capabilities.
- Dolç de L’Obac: A late-harvest sweet wine that defies convention with its complexity, ideal for pairing with rich cheeses or dark chocolate.
Wine Reviews from Clos de L’Obac
During the masterclass and lunch, we tasted a selection of wines, both white and red. Below our tasting notes and ratings for the wines.
Usatges 2021 (White)
Aroma: Usatges 2021 greets the nose with a delightful bouquet of fresh citrus fruits—think zesty lemon and ripe grapefruit—complemented by subtle floral notes of white blossoms. A hint of stone fruit, such as peach, emerges, alongside a distinct minerality that evokes the region’s slate-rich soils.
Taste: On the palate, this wine is a refreshing harmony of elegance and balance. The bright acidity invigorates the senses, while flavours of crisp apple and pear intertwine with a touch of herbal freshness. The minerality shines through, providing a clean, lingering finish that invites another sip. It’s a wine that embodies the spirit of Priorat—vibrant, pure, and engaging.
Kyrie 2023 (White)
Aroma: The Kyrie 2023 opens with an enticing aroma of ripe stone fruits, such as apricot and nectarine, layered with creamy notes from its time in French oak. Hints of vanilla and light toast mingle with the fresh floral characteristics, creating a complex and inviting bouquet.
Taste: This wine showcases exceptional structure and finesse. The palate is treated to a medley of flavours: luscious white peach, zesty citrus, and a touch of sweet spice from the oak aging. The light maceration imparts a subtle richness, balanced by vibrant acidity that lifts the wine, leading to a long, satisfying finish. It’s a wine with excellent aging potential, promising even greater complexity in the years to come.
Kyrie 2020 (White)
Aroma: The Kyrie 2020 bursts forth with an aromatic profile of fresh citrus and exotic fruit, underscored by notes of honey and a delicate floral essence. A gentle hint of spice from the oak aging adds depth to the nose.
Taste: On the palate, the wine is beautifully structured, revealing layers of flavor that include juicy pear and a hint of tropical fruit. The oak influence is present but not overpowering, providing a creamy mouthfeel that enhances the wine’s complexity. The bright acidity keeps it refreshing, making it a versatile companion for food or enjoyable on its own.
Usatges Negre Magnum 2021 (Red)
Aroma: This red blend captivates with an intense bouquet of dark berries—blackberry and plum—complemented by hints of leather, spice, and a subtle earthiness. The oak aging introduces a layer of vanilla and toasted nuts, adding richness to the aromatic profile.
Taste: On the palate, Usatges Negre is full-bodied and robust, with well-integrated tannins that provide structure. The fruit flavours are ripe and concentrated, showcasing a beautiful balance between sweetness and acidity. Notes of dark chocolate and baking spices emerge on the finish, leaving a lingering impression that invites further exploration.
Misere 2014
Aroma: Misere 2014 offers a complex nose filled with ripe red and black fruits, alongside earthy undertones and a hint of dried herbs. The oak aging contributes subtle notes of chocolate and caramel, enhancing the wine’s depth.
Taste: The palate is rich and velvety, with flavours of cherry, plum, and a touch of black pepper. The tannins are refined, lending a silky texture that enhances the overall experience. The wine’s lengthy finish is marked by a refreshing acidity, promising longevity and further development in the bottle.
Clos de L’Obac 2014
Aroma: This flagship wine presents an enticing bouquet of dark fruits—blackcurrant and blackberry—alongside hints of cedar, graphite, and spices. The oak influence adds a layer of complexity with notes of vanilla and toasted bread.
Taste: Clos de L’Obac 2014 is powerful yet elegant, showcasing a remarkable balance of fruit and structure. Rich flavours of dark cherry, plum, and a touch of mineral earthiness create a layered palate. The finish is long and memorable, with finely grained tannins that promise aging potential.
Dolç de l’Obac 2013 (16.5%)
Aroma: The Dolç de l’Obac reveals a sumptuous nose of ripe dark berries, particularly raspberry and blackberry, intertwined with notes of fig, dried fruits, and a hint of chocolate. The sweet aromas are balanced by subtle spice and a touch of herbaceousness.
Taste: This sweet red wine is surprisingly light on the palate, despite its richness. Flavors of ripe red fruit and chocolate are complemented by well-balanced acidity, preventing it from feeling overly heavy. The finish is luscious and lingering, with a delightful sweetness that pairs beautifully with cheese or dark chocolate.
The Future of Priorat: A Legacy of Excellence
As climate change challenges winemaking traditions, Clos de L’Obac rises to the occasion with innovative practices and unwavering dedication. By refining harvesting techniques and closely monitoring their vines, the winery ensures that each bottle embodies the unique character of Priorat’s terroir.
Clos de L’Obac is more than a winery—it is a living narrative of resilience, innovation, and passion. Rooted in history yet forward-thinking in its approach, it reflects the dreams of its founders, who dared to envision Priorat as a world-class wine region. As Guillem Pastrana eloquently states, “We don’t just make wine; we create a legacy.”
A Beacon of Priorat’s Spirit
Through a seamless blend of tradition and modernity, Clos de L’Obac has cemented its place on the global wine stage. Its meticulously crafted wines, from the vibrant Kyrie to the iconic Clos de L’Obac, showcase the exceptional quality and character of the region.
Every sip tells a story—one of vision, perseverance, and a deep respect for the land. As Clos de L’Obac looks to the future, it remains a shining example of excellence, honoring the past while inspiring generations to come.
This article is written by our own Sterre van den Ham. We like to thank Priorat Wines and Guillem Pastrana of Clos de L’Obac for organizing this Masterclass. Also, we thank Restaurant Badcuyp for their hospitality and the amazing lunch provided after the Masterclass.
