Podere Forte – Nothing by Chance.

Those who are fond of self-made (wo)men stories, will lick their chops reading the story of Pasquale Forte. Started with next-to-nothing, Forte (1948) single-handedly builds both an industrial empire and a renowned winery. Although Forte would not agree on the term winery. Please read along to find out why and read the story of Podere Forte.

When Dreams Come True

It all starts when a ten-years-old son of a ruined farmer’s family moves from southern Italy to northern Lake Como. In his mid-twenties, we find Forte working in a garage in the village of Orsenigo. Uneducated and inspired by no more than a brochure, he assembles electronic parts for radios and televisions. Eldor – meaning Electronica from Orsenigo – transforms into a global technology provider for the automotive industry. 

As a middle-aged man, Eldor Corporation’s owner-director Pasquale Forte feels the desire to reconnect with his agricultural roots. His eye falls on an ancient farmhouse in Val d’Orcia called Podere Petrucci. Petrucci and Forte shake hands in 1997 and Podere Petrucci transitions into Podere Forte. 

Now, in his late seventies, we see Forte living his dream. Or better said: living in his dream. Residing in Podere Forte, he governs two worlds. One moment video conferencing and selling automotive parts to Tesla, the other moment cruising on an all-terrain buggy inspecting his vineyards. Same man, same motives. ’Pasquale Forte is a crazy maniacal man, obsessed by perfectionism,’ says Forte’s sales & marketing director Giovanni Mazzoni.

Place of Dreams

Mazzoni continues: ‘the key point is that Podere Forte is not a winery.’ The two-hundred-fifty hectares podere – meaning farmstead – is cultivated to ancient Roman principles. Only twenty-six hectares are planted with vines, of which seventeen are in production. All the rest is forests, olive groves, gardens and lakes. Podere Forte produces olive oil, honey and wheat. And wine.

Forte does not have the picturesque place to himself. He is accompanied by cows, pork, sheep, goats, rabbits and ducks. For the pleasure of the Forte’s, but much more for the pleasure of the vines. In meters long pipes, the domain produces its own compost out of animal droppings and wood, covered with dried gras. ‘After twelve to sixteen months it turns into gold.’ At least that is one way to define manure.

Rooted on Solid Grounds

Top consultants Lydia and Claude Bourguignon analyze the soils with a Burgundian approach. Vineyards are located on spurs of Monte Amiata, an extinct volcano. Altitudes variate between three-hundred-fifty to six-hundred-fifty meters. Soils are a mixture of calc and schist. Shallow topsoils have been imposed to maximum yields of twenty-five hectoliters per hectare. These ‘Grand Cru’ vineyards are Guardiavigna, Petrucci Anfiteatro and Petrucci Melo. ‘Premier Cru’ Petruccinohas deeper topsoils and yields up to thirty-five hectoliters per hectare. Younger vines form the basis of Villaggio. 

Steered by Science

The domain is biodynamic certified by Demeter. ’We do up to seventeen different types of biodynamic treatments.’ The moon calendar is not followed. ‘We have a rigid, scientific approach. We are driven by science. We observe, study and verify everything we do.’ The under architecture of Christian Zambelli built winery features a laboratory NASA would envy. Two employed biologists work full-time on soil life improvement. ‘Pasquale wants to hand over the land better than he bought it.’

Powered by Perfection

Mazzoni affirms there is no such thing as free lunch. ‘The production of a simple Chianti costs about 100 working hours per hectare, Chianti Classico goes up to 170 and Brunello di Montalcino is ranging between 300 and 650. At Podere Forte we spend 1.630 working hours per hectare.’

To avoid compactization, one of Forte’s companies developed ultralight tractors, whose pressure is lower than a human’s feet. Intelligent hydrogeological management, including an ingenious system with channels and three artificial lakes provide in the water need. Leaf management has a whole new dimension at Podere Forte. It features twenty-three kilometers of foldable tents for sun protection. The twenty-seven employed vineyard workers are equipped with electrified orthogonal seated wheelchairs.

Uncompromised Ripeness

Harvest is done in three rounds. ‘One harvest round is a compromise on optimal ripeness. Pasquale Forte does not accept compromises.’ Three harvests, three selections, three vinifications and three maturations. Consider the vineyards are divided in several separately vinified clusters, resulting in a complex micro-vinification puzzle. ‘This year we did about 70 different vinifications.’

Every bunch is picked and selected by hand. At a second sorting table, grapes are selected by a computer controlled optical selector. It selects berries by size, color and deviations. All software is tailor made and developed by Forte’s own companies.

Clean Vinification

‘Non-clean vinification of Sangiovese results in earthy and animalistic aromas. We are looking for pure and clean flavors.’ Grapes are transported by gravity and gently moved into conic formed wooden casks by Taransaud. Approximately seventy percent of the grapes is crushed by feed or pedals, the rest follows during alcoholic fermentation. ‘Over-extraction of Sangiovese result in wines with the mouthfeel of an artichoke. Softly opening of grapes during alcoholic fermentations result in noble tannins. We are looking for readiness and drinkability.’ 

Tailored Aging

Aging finds place in ten-to-fifteen hectoliters wooden casks, tonneau and – to a lesser extent – barrique. On Forte’s request the barriques are thickened from twenty-two to twenty-seven. ‘Twenty-seven millimeters means lesser oxygenation and lesser interaction with the wood.’ Blending and stabilization finds place in tulip-shaped, glass infill, concrete tanks. The wines are bottled in unique shaped bottles. The patented form is based on the golden ratio or divine proportion, a mathematic and artistic principle indicating the harmony of nature. 

The Wines

For this article we tasted and rated four wines out of the Podere Forte portfolio.

2021 Villaggio – Podere Forte

Sangiovese | Fissile schist | 14-16 months aging in French oak casks.

Villaggio is a blend of young Sangiovese vines and remaining grapes from Petruccino or Petrucci. ‘Villaggio is our welcome wine to the Podere Forte world.’

The wine opens perfumed and balanced. Fruity flavours of ripe strawberry and cherry are accompanied by floral and herbal notes. We note rose, laurel, oregano, thyme, paprika powder and baked tomato. 

On the palate, Villaggio 2021 is modern and constant. It feels juicy, velvet and pure. Refined structure, fused tannins, good acids, slightly spicy and warming (14.5% ABV). The wine leaves a clear and clean mouthfeel. 

We reward this wine with a 90-point DWA score.

2020 Petruccino – Podere Forte

Sangiovese | Schist and clay | 420 – 500 m.a.s.l. | 14-16 months aging in French oak casks.

‘Petruccino is our Premier Cru, Petruccino means little Petrucci. The schist soil lies on a depth of at least one and a half meter. There is more opulence, which gives the wine a different approach in terms of yields.’

To us, the smell of Petruccino reminds of freshly baked fruitcake. We note fresh strawberry, ripe strawberry and strawberry marmalade. Darker coloured fruit like blackberry, fig and ripe dark tomato appear. The aroma profile is rich and lush like creamy coffee and finished with oriental spices, laurel and liquorice. 

Petruccino 2020 is both lush and distinguished. Opening creamy, broad and mouth filling, it is followed by fiery structure and graceful acids. The wines offer a modern interpretation on the spirited Sangiovese character. We note dominant yet integrated wood aging flavours. Powerful and broad, rounded and polished, while maintaining authenticity and character. High flavour intensity and a warming aftertaste. 

We reward this wine with a 92-point DWA score.

2017 Petrucci Anfiteatro – Podere Forte

Sangiovese | Vertical schist | 460 m.a.s.l. | 20-22 months aging in French oak casks

‘Up to 2014, Petrucci was one wine from two vineyards. Now we have Petrucci Melo and Petrucci Anfiteatro. Anfiteatro is a beautiful valley with radial vineyards in the middle.’ 

Tempting and seductive, the bouquet of Petrucci Anfiteatro 2017 shows pure dark strawberry, blackcurrant and blueberry. We also note black tea, vanilla bean, oriental spices, cedar and incense.

Being both concentrated, pressured and wealthy, Anfiteatro opens with pure and succulent red and dark fruits. Its rounded structure merges into creamy juice, enveloping like a comfortable blanket. Despite its luscious character, opulence is prevented by tailoring and balancing acids. Its tasting profile is both complex, lush, measured and elegant. Its long-lasting warming aftertaste lasts impressions of dark spices and Italian espresso. 

We reward this wine with a 94-point DWA score.

2018 Guardiavigna Orniello – Podere Forte

Cabernet Franc | Schist | 510 m.a.s.l. | 20-22 months aging in French oak casks

Although Guardiavigna has been a Bordeaux blend for years, it nowadays is a Cabernet Franc based monocepage. Giovanni Mazzoni explains:

‘We found out Cabernet Franc in our estate performs better than Merlot and Petit Verdot. Cabernet Franc is late ripening. In Col d’Orcia everything slows down in September and October, just like the polyphenolic ripening. Our Cabernet Franc is planted at five-hundred meters above sea level. In Cabernet Franc from Bolgheri you feel the sun. Our Cabernet Franc is more vertical, vibrant and clean.’

The aroma profile of Guardiavigna differs from the Sangiovese based wines. It needs time to wake up and seems more pointy and less lush. Tight and floral, the aromas tend to darker colored fruits, mostly blackcurrant and dark cherry. Wood aging is reflected in aromas of pencil shavings, cedar and dark spices like clove, nutmeg and cinnamon.

On the palate Guardiavigna 2018 is dark and clean. The fruit is ripe and pure, mostly perfectly ripe blueberry and splashing fresh bramble. Energetic, pure and tight. Crystal clear juice, great pressure and rounded tannins. No jam, no pyrazine. Just fresh ripeness. Impressions of blueberry and spices last in a long-lasting aftertaste, leaving a clean mouthfeel. 

We reward this wine with a 94-point DWA score.

The Infinite Pursuit of Perfection: Reflections on Podere Forte and Pasquale Forte’s Vision

In Podere Forte nothing happens by chance, that much is clear. Pasquale Forte strives perfection. No expense or effort is spared. Forte’s uncompromised – almost maniacal – drive to perfection is both touchable and touching. The wines of Podere Forte reflect his search for perfection. They are flawless, detailed and stylised. Modern wines, designed for a broad fine wine audience, alongside preservation of character. In that sense, one could say they are perfect.

Allow us a concluding reflection on perfection. Is perfection equal to flawless? Can imperfections be perfect? Is perfection personal? Is there such thing as perfection at all? Would reaching the state of perfection result in the inevitable end of it? Is the search for perfection an infinite process to reach the unreachable? 

We don’t know the answers, but we would like to ask Pasquale Forte to never give up his quest to perfection.  

This article was written by our own Hermen Jansen. The wines of Podere Forte are imported in the Netherlands by Vinites and available through selected partners. We thank Giovanni Mazzoni for sharing his insights on Podere Forte and Vinites for providing the wines.