Xavier Vignon, The French Master Blender.
Recently, we had the pleasure of speaking with Xavier Vignon, a master winemaker based in Beaumes-de-Venise. Known for crafting bold and expressive wines, Xavier blends tradition with innovation, resulting in wines that are as distinctive as they are refined. Our conversation with Xavier delved into his journey, winemaking philosophy, and the challenges he faces in a changing climate.
From Consultant to Winemaker
Xavier’s journey in wine began with his deep sense of heritage, as his family has long been involved in winemaking. However, what sets him apart is his early career as a “flying winemaker,” consulting for wineries across different regions. This global exposure significantly shaped his perspective and approach to winemaking. “When I started consulting in the Rhône, it was about more sugar and less acidity,” he explains. But over the years, climate change has forced a reversal in priorities, requiring more acidity and less sugar for balance. Through these experiences, Xavier developed an open-minded approach, often employing non-traditional methods to achieve unique results. “We don’t know where the limit is, but it’s moving fast,” he reflects, underscoring the importance of adaptability in today’s wine world.
A Passion for Blending
Blending is central to winemaking in the Rhône Valley, where wines like Châteauneuf-du-Pape can feature up to 13 grape varieties. However, for Xavier, blending goes beyond the norm. Drawing on his time in regions like Champagne and Bordeaux, he not only blends grape varieties but also different vintages. “Blending is life,”Xavier says with conviction. This philosophy reflects his belief that blending creates complexity and consistency, essential in an era of unpredictable weather. “I really like the blending approach—mixing different varieties, countries, and vintages adds complexity and balance,” he adds.
As climate change alters the wine landscape, blending becomes a critical tool. “We are harvesting four weeks earlier than we did 20 years ago,” Xavier explains. He also notes the increasing alcohol levels and reduced water availability in the region. “When I first started working here, the goal was to have more sugar and less acidity. Now, it’s the opposite.” The adaptability of blending allows winemakers like Xavier to mitigate the effects of these changes while maintaining quality.
Addressing Climate Change
Climate change is at the forefront of Xavier’s concerns. “Climate change is not a joke,” he states. The Rhône Valley, like many other wine regions, is grappling with rising temperatures and reduced water availability. To adapt, Xavier has been planting vines at higher altitudes and on north-facing slopes to avoid excessive sun exposure. “We started planting at higher altitudes 30 years ago,” he reveals, “but even that may only be a temporary solution.”
The impact of climate change is seen not only in earlier harvests but also in shifting wine styles. Xavier points out that red wines with heavy tannins are no longer as popular as they once were. “We’re seeing a move toward lighter, more drinkable reds with less tannin,” he explains. At the same time, the increased salinity and reduced acidity in white varieties like Viognier present new challenges. “Viognier, once prized for its low acidity and high sugar, is now becoming too salty and unbalanced,” he says.
Old Vines and Their Importance
Xavier places great emphasis on working with old vines. “Old vines are less sensitive to oxidation,” he says, explaining that the larger trunks of older vines allow for more minerals to be absorbed into the wine. “It’s like the difference between distilled water and salty water,” he explains. The higher mineral content contributes to the structure and complexity of the wine, making it more resistant to oxidation. Xavier estimates that around 80% of the vines he works with are considered old, further enhancing the intensity and balance of his wines.
Winemaking Innovation: The Vinarium
One of the most innovative aspects of Xavier’s winemaking process is his use of the Vinarium, a system that allows him to age wines in an immersion process with zero oxygen exposure and 100% humidity. “It’s like wine being aged under the sea,” Xavier explains. This method, inspired by historical techniques, allows him to reduce oxidation and improve the longevity of the wine. The Vinarium process plays a crucial role in several of his wines, including the Intra and Extra, which are aged for extended periods in this environment. “The immersion process is the best way to work against oxidation,” he affirms. The result is a wine with exceptional purity and longevity, qualities that are increasingly valuable in today’s climate.
The Future of Rhône and Bordeaux
Xavier is pragmatic about the future of winemaking in the Rhône Valley and beyond. He acknowledges that while the region still benefits from altitude and diverse terroir, these advantages may not last forever. “We still have altitude, but how long will that be enough?” he wonders aloud. In 10 to 20 years, he predicts that the limits of viticulture will continue to move north, potentially shifting traditional winemaking zones like Burgundy and Champagne even further northward.
When asked about Bordeaux, Xavier reflects on his time consulting there in the late 1980s and early 1990s. “Bordeaux has always been about tradition, but with climate change, they are now looking at ways to adapt, like increasing the use of Cabernet Franc for its freshness and acidity,” he says. Like the Rhône, Bordeaux is being forced to rethink its reliance on certain grape varieties and winemaking methods. “I think the future will be about preserving the fruit and reducing oak influence,” he adds, noting the importance of maintaining balance in an increasingly challenging climate.
Join us as we Review Xavier’s Wines
For this article we tasted six of Xavier’s wines, a selection of great wines in different styles. Below you will find our tasting notes and ratings.
2023 Rosé Cotes-du-Rhone
This rosé was made by means of the saignée method, in this case clearly an indication of quality. It masters a blend of 40% Cinsault, 30% Syrah, 20% Grenache Noir and filled up with the remaining 10% of Rolle. The label suits the wine, this rosé is a bit more serious, but still with a frivolous and charming easy-drinking character. It shows the natural red fruit aromas, with the additional watermelon and blossom note. Red grapefruit shows itself more on the palate, where it has the freshness, one may expect, and a pleasant bitterness.
We award this flavorful rosé with a 91-point DWA score.
Intra
The aromas on this white Châteauneuf-du-Pape bad-boy blew our minds! Where one may expect a concentration and complexity of aromas, this wine tops it. And guess what, there is a grape in there that we have not yet tasted: Picardan. The blend a big 40% chunk of Clairette, 25% Grenache Blanc, 15% Picpoul, 10% Roussanne, 5% Picardan and 5% Bourboulenc.
These grapes were vinified and aged in Xavier Vignon’s unique Vinarium, offering 100% humidity, therefore 0% oxygen. Much like wine being aged under in the sea, the Vinarium was greatly inspired by this method, but takes it a step further. A step further as they submerge an entire barrel inside the Vinarium, you can see here how this process is implemented. Enough on the method, let’s see what is in the glass.
We take good note of a pronounced aroma, of vanilla, caramel, yellow plum, peach jam, rose petal, passion fruit, minerality/salinity and an apple chip. The palate is soft, plush and fills your mouth entirely with textural enjoyment. The vanilla and caramel aromas develop into a white chocolate-ish interpretation and leaves your mouth with a 5-minute-long finish. This wine is quite something; unique.
We award this innovative white Rhône blend with a 95-point DWA score.
Extra
The Vinarium method as described with the Intra is also implemented here. There is a difference though, the Extra enjoys a long second fermentation inside the Vinarium. So, a temperature controlled second fermentation in the barrel under water. Like the Intra this is also a non/multi-vintage wine. It consists of a blend as expected, with 40% Clairette, 30% Grenache Blanc, 20% Roussanne and 10% Picpoul. The higher altitude can be tasted in this white Cotes du Rhône, as it offers more freshness than its Intra counterpart. It features a lot of citrus fruit, plenty of vanilla, sweet spice, oak and more. This is a well-balanced wine, thanks to its delightful fresh acidity, salinity, firm body and the oak usage, taking away the edges. Very well-made!
We award this innovative white Rhône blend with a 94-point DWA score.
2022 Cuvée Anonyme Châteauneuf-du-Pape
A white Châteauneuf-du-Pape with a gorgeous medium golden colour. This wine appeals not only to the nose, but to the eye as well. The aromas that emerge from the glass are ripe peach, mint, lots of richer citrus, honey, lavender and some well dosed sweet spice. The palate is fresh, while maintaining the sun-drenched character of the Rhone valley. It has some power and excellent balance. The master blender chose to include 45% Grenache Blanc, 30% Roussanne, 20% Clairette and 5% Picpoul.
We award this charming white Châteauneuf-du-Pape with a 92-point DWA score.
2016 Arcane La Papesse
The only wine of the line-up that is not a blend, this one entirely consists of Grenache. However, in the winemaking Maestro Xavier allows 20% of the Papesse to be submerged inside the Vinarium. Before that he creates various qualities in different containers, to blend later on. All of these use different vessels, varying from amphora, barrels, concrete vats and demi-muids to stainless steel thanks. Eventually, it took three years (2017-2020) until the wine was released.
Despite being a Châteauneuf-du-Pape, where one may expect a lot of power and boldness, this wine is remarkably elegantly shaped. The deep purple colour surprises, as well as the salty and mineral note that lifts the entire mood of the wine. This touch, in combination with cedar, smoke, a sort of olive-meatiness, plum and black fruit creates a complex piece of liquid art. The minerality shows on the palate as well, in the form of a salty touch. Its body is full, but so is the acidity, creating a fair play between the two.
We award this 100% Grenache with a 93-point DWA score.
Arcane L’Etoile
Blending is the entire personality of this wine, as both the grape varieties are a fair blend between 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre, the vintages are also a blend. In the Beaumes-de-Venise, Xavier plants his vines on the higher portions, with the objective of freshness and drinkability. In the glass this wine has a fair number of typical aromas like rosemary, thyme, a bit more of local herbs and mostly juicy black fruit. Where the body is full, we again feel the minerality in the form of wet stone, showing us how unique Beaumes-de-Venise can be. Therefore, this GSM blend proves itself more elegant than some of its contenders.
We award this multi-vintage GSM blend with a 93-point DWA score.
Conclusion: A Master at Work
Xavier Vignon’s wines are a reflection of his experience, creativity, and adaptability. His deep respect for the Rhône’s traditions is evident in his use of old vines and classic blending techniques. At the same time, his forward-thinking approach—exemplified by the Vinarium process—ensures that his wines remain relevant in a rapidly changing world. Whether it’s the complexities of blending or the innovations in aging, Xavier’s wines embody a delicate balance between past and future, making him a true Master Blender.
This article was written by Benjamin Roelfs. Xavier Vignon’s wines are imported to the Netherlands by Wijnkoperij Okhuysen and Karakter Wijnimport, and are available through selected retail and hospitality partners. Special thanks to Xavier and Anaëlle for their time and the wonderful tasting experience.
