A conversation with Mathieu Roland-Billecart, 7th-generation custodian of one of Champagne’s most revered family houses
In the season finale of Grape Masters Season 2, we travelled to Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, the heart of Champagne, for a special conversation with Mathieu Roland-Billecart, CEO of Champagne Billecart-Salmon. A house steeped in family tradition and history, Billecart-Salmon is not just another Grande Marque—it is a deeply personal and soulful expression of Champagne. Our visit was more than a tasting; it was a journey into the philosophy, heritage, and painstaking craft that defines this exceptional estate.
Mathieu Roland-Billecart is not only the CEO of Billecart-Salmon; he is the 7th generation of a family that has been rooted in Champagne for more than two centuries. The house was officially founded in 1818 through the marriage of Nicolas François Billecart and Elisabeth Salmon. This union combined the Billecart family’s expertise in trade and the Salmon family’s viticultural heritage—a balance of business acumen and winemaking tradition that still defines the house today.
The estate remains firmly in family hands, a rarity in modern Champagne. When asked about taking over the reins, Mathieu offered a candid and thoughtful response: “I needed to think about it,” he admitted, acknowledging the gravity of stepping into a role shaped by generations before him. It was not a career move, but a calling—a responsibility not just to a brand, but to a legacy.
Decisions at Billecart-Salmon are not made hastily. They are the result of family discussions, shaped by consensus and shared values. This deeply rooted commitment to continuity is perhaps best embodied by Mathieu’s great-uncle, Jean Roland-Billecart. From surviving wartime destruction to pioneering bottle shapes and fermentation techniques, his generation laid the groundwork for today’s success.
For Billecart-Salmon, Champagne is not about trend-following or chasing fleeting fads. It is about integrity. “We are happiness merchants,” Mathieu says, underscoring a philosophy that places emotion, pleasure, and authenticity above marketing tactics. The house’s motto, Give priority to quality, strive for excellence, is not just a slogan—it’s a mandate.
Billecart-Salmon does not chase approval through analytics or fashion. Their champagnes are not made to impress on paper but to delight in the glass. Each cuvée is a pursuit of balance, elegance, and freshness—crafted to evoke emotion, to create memories, and to accompany life’s meaningful moments.
At the center of everything Billecart-Salmon does is its savoir-faire—a uniquely French term that encompasses not just know-how, but accumulated experience, craftsmanship, and cultural sensitivity. This philosophy touches every aspect of the process, from vineyard to bottle.
The estate owns over 100 hectares of certified organic vineyards, and many of their parcels are managed biodynamically in partnership with growers like Jérôme Bretaudeau. An additional 100 hectares are cultivated by Billecart-Salmon for other landowners. Over 90% of the fruit used in production comes from within a 20-kilometre radius of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, ensuring a focused and consistent expression of terroir.
Perhaps most emblematic of their savoir-faire is the tasting committee, an old-school approach that blends tradition with precision. This committee includes family members, former and current cellar masters, and technical staff. Together, they taste every base wine, agree on blending, determine dosage, and make critical decisions on aging. This ensures that each wine not only meets technical expectations but also carries the unmistakable identity of Billecart-Salmon.
Winemaking techniques are precise but flexible. Cold fermentation, pioneered by Mathieu’s great-uncle, is a cornerstone of their style, preserving elegance and freshness. Malolactic fermentation is applied selectively, only where it benefits the wine. Aging periods are extended, and dosage is tailored individually to each cuvée—often using a range of reserve wines stored expressly for this purpose.
During our visit, we tasted two exemplary cuvées that showcase the full spectrum of the house’s craftsmanship and philosophy.
A blend of Pinot Meunier (43%), Chardonnay (29%) and Pinot Noir (28%), Le Réserve is a masterclass in blending. It contains wine from 15 different vintages, with the youngest being from 2020 and the oldest dating back to 2006. The wine is aged for an average of 50 months on the lees.
In the glass, it presents a pale gold hue with fine, persistent bubbles. On the nose, it offers delicate aromas of pear, brioche, and fresh almond. The palate is vibrant, with citrus zest, stone fruit and a gentle creaminess. Its elegance lies in its balance—a refreshing, gastronomic champagne with the versatility to shine at brunch in Helsinki or dinner in Singapore. It is, as Mathieu puts it, “our heptathlon champion”—not the flashiest in any single category, but the most complete all-rounder.
We award this wine with a 93-point DWA score.
This prestige cuvée pays homage to one of the house’s founders and is built for longevity. A blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, it draws from six grand cru villages and spent over a decade aging on lees.
In the glass, it shows golden luminosity with a nose that is both expressive and nuanced: toasted hazelnuts, dried apricot, candied citrus, and a hint of spice. The palate is layered and structured, with a richness that is both powerful and restrained. There is depth, finesse, and an unmistakable sense of purpose. Although just released, it will continue to evolve beautifully for decades.
We award this wine with a 97-point DWA score.
Besides the two Champagnes mentioned above we continued our interview with a further deep-dive into the portfolio, featuring six other Champagnes in four flights. Below the flights, our impressions and ratings.
Pinot Meunier (43%), Chardonnay (29%) and Pinot Noir (28%)
Grape variety % based on the 2020 vintage. For accurate percentages of your bottle visit My Origin and enter your unique bottle code.
Mainly low-temperature vinification in stainless steel tanks, contains over 50% reserve wines. Average ageing on the lees for 50 months, Extra Brut dosage.
Tasting note: see above.
Pinot Noir (60%) and Chardonnay (40%)
100% Grands Crus and Premiers Crus. Pinot Noir from the Montagne de Reims and the Grande Vallée de la Marne (Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Aÿ and Verzenay). Chardonnay from Côte des Blancs (Mesnil-sur-Oger, Chouilly, Avize).
10% wines vinified in oak casks. Ageing on lees, on average: 120 months. Dosage: 3.8g/l.
Tasting note: see above.
Chardonnay (100%)
Sourced from Grands Crus vineyards in the Côte des Blancs (Avize, Chouilly, Cramant, Mesnil-sur-Oger).
This wine is a crystalline expression of Chardonnay’s elegance. Made from 20% to 50% reserve wines, vinified in stainless steel tanks and aged 4 to 5 years on the lees, it opens with aromas of white peach, lemon zest, and crushed oyster shell. The palate is tightly focused with a chalky texture, brisk acidity, and notes of green apple, lime, and subtle pastry. It is a Champagne of finesse and precision—perfectly illustrating the purity of its Grand Cru vineyards and their terroir.
Chardonnay (100%)
This Blanc de Blancs vintage pays tribute to Louis, the brother of Elisabeth Salmon and an early oenological influence in the family. Made from 100% Chardonnay sourced entirely from Grand Cru vineyards in the Côte des Blancs—primarily Mesnil-sur-Oger, along with Cramant, Chouilly, and Oiry—the wine is a study in purity and precision. Twenty-five percent is vinified in oak casks, followed by 115 months of lees aging and a dosage of 3.9 g/l.
Bright pale gold in the glass with vivid green tints and fine, persistent bubbles, it opens aromatically with notes of candied citrus, conference pear, and subtle toasted almond. The palate is creamy and sculpted, with a focused mineral core and accents of citron zest, biscuit, and a dusting of white pepper. There’s a crystalline energy throughout, leading to a long, harmonious finish of sweet citrus, chalk, and delicate spice. A superb expression of Grand Cru Chardonnay with both elegance and staying power.
Chardonnay (45%), Pinot Noir (35%) and Meunier (20%).
Grape variety % based on the 2020 vintage. For accurate percentages of your bottle visit My Origin and enter your unique bottle code.
Crafted from the 2020 base vintage with a significant portion of reserve wines, this Rosé Extra Brut reflects the precision blending and terroir sensitivity of Billecart-Salmon. The Chardonnay is sourced from the house’s best Crus, the Pinot Noir from the Montagne de Reims and Grande Vallée de la Marne, and the Meunier from the Vallée de la Marne and Epernay’s southern slopes. Aged 36 months on the lees and finished with Extra Brut dosage, this rosé is focused and gastronomic.
The wine opens with notes of wild strawberry, blood orange, and subtle spice. On the palate, it reveals tension and purity, with red berry brightness balanced by a backbone of chalky minerality. Elegant and restrained, this is a food-loving rosé that expresses both freshness and depth with clarity and poise.
Chardonnay (55%) and Pinot Noir (45%)
First created in 1988 as a tribute to one of the house’s co-founders, this prestige cuvée reflects the elegance, strength, and savoir-faire that define Billecart-Salmon’s rosé style at its most refined. Composed exclusively from Grand and Premier Cru terroirs—Chardonnay from Chouilly, Avize, and Mesnil-sur-Oger, and Pinot Noir from Mareuil-sur-Aÿ and Verzenay—it is a masterclass in blending and precision. With just under 3% vinified in oak casks, the wine aged 115 months on lees and is finished with a dosage of 3.8 g/l.
In the glass, it displays a delicate rose-gold hue with shimmering highlights and ultra-fine bubbles. Aromatically, it delivers layered notes of rose petal, red currant, blood orange, and subtle pastry. On the palate, there’s a graceful balance between juicy red fruit and chalky tension, with accents of grapefruit zest, white pepper, and toasted spice. The finish is long and poised, showing both depth and finesse. An exceptional rosé Champagne, combining intensity with delicacy—a wine of purity, purpose, and timeless character.
Chardonnay (43%), Pinot Noir (28%) and Meunier (29%)
Grape variety % based on the 2017 vintage. For accurate percentages of your bottle visit My Origin and enter your unique bottle code.
Based on the 2017 vintage and composed with a selection of reserve wines dating back to 2006, Le Sous Bois NV showcases the house’s mastery of oak integration. The Chardonnay comes from Grand Cru sites in the Côte des Blancs, the Pinot Noir from Premier and Grand Crus in the Montagne de Reims, Aÿ and Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, and the Meunier from both banks of the Vallée de la Marne. All wines are vinified in oak casks and aged for five years on lees with an Extra Brut dosage.
The result is a Champagne of depth, generosity, and gastronomic appeal. Aromas of roasted nuts, candied citrus, and creamy brioche lead to a palate that is textured, vinous, and layered. With its oxidative complexity and energetic backbone, Le Sous Bois bridges the line between classical Champagne finesse and bold, food-driven expression.
Pinot Noir (100%)
The most singular expression in the Billecart-Salmon portfolio, Clos Saint-Hilaire 2009 is a rare monopole cuvée originating from a single one-hectare, 100% biodynamic, walled vineyard in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ planted in 1964. Produced only in exceptional vintages, this pure Pinot Noir is vinified entirely in oak casks, aged for 177 months on the lees, and finished with a dosage of just 1.9 g/l.
Intensely expressive on the nose, it reveals layers of ripe red fruit, exotic spice, truffle, and toasted hazelnut, interwoven with a subtle smoky elegance. The palate is powerful yet composed, with exceptional structure, tension, and an expansive, mineral-driven finish. A wine that transcends Champagne itself, Clos Saint-Hilaire 2009 is a once-in-a-generation bottling—a reflection of site, time, and uncompromising craftsmanship.
From the beginning, Billecart-Salmon has been embraced by the culinary elite. Renowned chefs such as Paul Bocuse, Michel Guérard, and Anne-Sophie Pic championed the house long before rosé Champagne was fashionable. “We owe much of our success to chefs,” says Mathieu.
Billecart-Salmon wines are not made for the tasting room alone. They are made for the table—crafted to complement food and elevate experiences. The partnership with institutions like Relais & Châteaux and the Alliance Gastronomique is not marketing; it’s a shared pursuit of excellence, detail, and hospitality.
The house sees itself as a fine restaurant in liquid form: same attention to ingredients (grapes), same respect for the team (from vineyard workers to cellar staff), and the same commitment to leaving guests with a smile.
Prestige cuvées such as Nicolas François, Elisabeth Salmon Rosé, and Louis Salmon Blanc de Blancs make up only a small fraction of the house’s total production—yet they carry the greatest weight of expectation. These wines are not produced every vintage, and even when bottled, they are not guaranteed release. Some are declassified if they don’t meet the standard.
“When you put your ancestors’ names on a bottle, it’s more than a label—it’s a promise,” Mathieu says. This sense of responsibility is what gives these wines their soul.
In a world often driven by immediacy, Billecart-Salmon reminds us that great wine requires time, vision, and soul. Mathieu Roland-Billecart is not just preserving his family’s legacy; he is actively shaping its future. Through his leadership, Billecart-Salmon remains a Champagne house that values integrity over volume, identity over trend, and emotion over statistics.
Here, savoir-faire is not just knowledge. It is a philosophy. It is family. And above all, it is the reason why a glass of Billecart-Salmon is more than Champagne—it’s a story in every sip.
This article is written by our own Niels Aarts, and published as a companion to our Podcast series ‘Grape Masters’. We thank Mathieu Roland-Billecart, Jérôme Lafouge, Angélina Stéphan and Diane Versaci for their time and the warm welcome at Champagne Billecart-Salmon.
In addition, we thank Residence Wijnen, who are the Dutch distributor for Billecart-Salmon for their support in writing this article. Picture credits: Champagne Billecart-Salmon and Dutch Wine Apprentice.
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