Bodegas Carmelo Rodero: Exceptional Wines from Ribera del Duero.
It was over a delightful lunch at Restaurant Benjamin in ‘s-Hertogenbosch that we delved deeper into the story of Bodegas Carmelo Rodero. Guided by Jesús Sánchez López, the winery’s passionate sales manager, and organized by their Dutch importer Heisterkamp, the tasting revealed wines of remarkable quality, each bottle embodying decades of dedication and vision.
This memorable experience transported us back to 2023, when we visited the winery as Ribera del Duero Ambassador. During that visit, we were captivated by the estate’s state-of-the-art facilities and impressed by the tasting led by María Rodero, a moment that solidified our admiration for the family’s work.
The Entrepreneurial Vision of Carmelo Rodero
Carmelo Rodero’s journey is a testament to the power of vision, determination, and an unwavering belief in the potential of Ribera del Duero’s terroir. Born into a family of grape growers, Carmelo’s roots in viticulture run deep. Yet, his aspirations extended far beyond selling grapes to renowned wineries like Vega Sicilia. He envisioned a legacy built on crafting wines that would stand shoulder-to-shoulder with the world’s best.
In 1989, Carmelo took a bold leap, founding his own winery. This venture demanded immense personal and financial sacrifice as he invested heavily in acquiring prime vineyard sites and developing cutting-edge facilities. His belief in the importance of terroir led him to meticulously select parcels that would produce exceptional fruit. Today, the estate spans 170 hectares of vineyards, located at altitudes between 850 and 900 meters, where the unique combination of climate and soil creates the ideal environment for producing world-class wines.
Carmelo’s commitment to innovation was equally evident in the winery itself. He built state-of-the-art facilities designed to respect the integrity of the grapes, incorporating gravity-fed systems to minimize mechanical intervention. These pioneering efforts laid the foundation for the winery’s success and set a benchmark for excellence in the region.
A Family-Driven Legacy
Over the years, Carmelo’s dream became a family endeavor. His daughters, María and Beatriz, have played pivotal roles in shaping the winery’s present and future. María, the Commercial Director, oversees the global strategy, bringing the winery’s story and wines to audiences worldwide. Beatriz, a talented winemaker with experience in Bordeaux, South Africa, and California, has further refined the winery’s style, blending traditional practices with modern techniques.
The family’s united vision has propelled Bodegas Carmelo Rodero to the forefront of Ribera del Duero winemaking. Their wines, characterized by elegance, complexity, and a deep sense of place, are celebrated both domestically and internationally.
Sustainable Practices and Precision Winemaking
At Bodegas Carmelo Rodero, sustainability is more than a commitment; it is a philosophy that guides every aspect of production. The vineyards are cultivated with care, ensuring the health of the soil and the surrounding ecosystem. High-altitude viticulture ensures grapes with excellent freshness and balance, while meticulous vineyard management preserves the character of each vintage.
In the winery, advanced technology complements traditional methods. Gravity-fed winemaking processes reduce the need for mechanical pumping, protecting the grapes’ natural integrity. Each step of the process, from fermentation to aging, is closely monitored, ensuring that every bottle meets the highest standards of quality.
The Wines: A Showcase of Excellence
Over lunch we tasted and reviewed the portfolio of Carmelo Rodero, including an aged vintage of their top single vineyard wine Pago de Valtarreña (2015) and an aged vintage of their red blend TSM (2011).
Below our findings and scores.
2022 Carmelo Rodero 9 Meses
Tinta del Pais – Tempranillo (100%)
A bright and approachable red, this wine is aged for nine months in French oak barrels. It offers aromas of ripe cherries and subtle vanilla, with a lively palate that balances fruitiness and structure. Perfect for casual dining or as an introduction to the winery’s style.
We award this wine a 91-point DWA score.
2021 Carmelo Rodero Crianza
Tinta del Pais – Tempranillo (90%), Cabernet Sauvignon (10%)
Aged for 15 months in French oak, the Crianza is a standout with its harmonious balance of dark fruit, spices, and mineral notes. Its silky texture and refined finish earned it recognition as one of the best wines in its category.
We award this wine a 93-point DWA score.
2020 Carmelo Rodero Reserva
Tinta del Pais – Tempranillo (90%), Cabernet Sauvignon (10%)
The Reserva is a testament to the Rodero family’s dedication to excellence. In the glass, the wine boasts a deep, intense cherry-red hue with vibrant violet reflections and a delicate amber-tinted rim—a visual cue to its meticulous aging process.
The nose is strikingly complex, offering a symphony of ripe blackberries, blueberries, and black currants intertwined with earthy mineral notes and warm spices. Aromas of vanilla, cinnamon, and toffee add depth, while hints of cigar box and freshly roasted coffee create a sophisticated allure. With time, subtler accents of toast and subtle floral undertones emerge, enhancing its aromatic elegance.
On the palate, the wine is full-bodied and assertive, yet remarkably harmonious. It opens with lush flavors of ripe fruits like plum and blackberry, supported by chalky, firm tannins that provide a sturdy framework. A beautifully balanced acidity adds freshness, while layers of baking spices, cocoa, and toffee unfold gracefully. The wine’s texture is meaty and round, filling the palate with velvety sensations that seamlessly transition into a long, chewy finish.
The tannins, while firm, are ripe and polished, creating an elegant mouthfeel that is both structured and inviting. Notes of caramel and coffee linger on the finish, leaving a lasting impression of complexity and refinement.
With its rich, assertive character and balanced structure, it is approachable now but promises to evolve beautifully over the next decade. A wine for special occasions, it represents the pinnacle of the winery’s craftsmanship.
*note: as of the 2021 vintage this wine is re-named to ‘Raza’.
We award this wine a 95-point DWA score.
2015 Pago de Valtarreña
Tinta del Pais – Tempranillo (100%)
This single-vineyard masterpiece, perched at the highest point of the estate, captures the essence of Ribera del Duero’s exceptional terroir. Officially classified as a Pago, Pago de Valtarreña is defined by its unique characteristics. Its ~45-year-old Tempranillo vines, grown from original clones that have never left the vineyard, have developed a profound connection with the soil and microclimate. As Carmelo Rodero’s sole single-vineyard wine, it is crafted exclusively in the finest vintages, ensuring unparalleled quality.
Aged for 24 months in French oak barrels, the 2015 Pago de Valtarreña represents the pinnacle of Ribera del Duero winemaking. It unveils enticing aromas of wild berries and truffle, leading to a palate brimming with depth and minerality. The wine’s powerful deep red color, with cherry-red hues evolving into tawny tones, hints at its maturity. Its aromatic complexity is extraordinary, beginning with ripe black fruit, stewed blackberries, and a touch of herbal freshness. These evolve into mature layers of toasted bread, leather, and coffee, with subtle accents of laurel and other herbs emerging as the wine breathes.
On the palate, the wine is impeccably balanced—fleshy, savory, and lightly sweet. Its structure is remarkable, with polished tannins enhanced by nuances of caramel, coffee, and tobacco, leading to a long, heavenly finish. Freshness and complexity make it enjoyable now, yet it has the potential for extended aging, as it continues to evolve beautifully. The aftertaste lingers endlessly, leaving a profound and memorable impression.
Limited to around 15,000 bottles in 2015, this wine is a collector’s dream. Pago de Valtarreña showcases the remarkable potential of both the vineyard and the winemaking artistry behind it.
*note: the current vintage that is released is the 2020 Pago de Valtarreña
We award this wine a 95-point DWA score.
2011 Carmelo Rodero TSM
Tinta del Pais – Tempranillo (75%), Cabernet Sauvignon (10%) and Merlot (15%).
The TSM is a bold, innovative blend of Tinta del País— Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, aged for over 16 months in French oak barrels, to achieve richness and complexity.
In the glass, it displays a striking purplish cherry-red hue. The aromatic profile is complex, with ripe black fruit, mineral notes, and hints of toast, mushrooms, balsamic undertones, and tobacco. On the palate, it is powerful and structured, dominated by fruit flavors balanced with fine tannins and a creamy, rounded texture. Despite its richness, it retains elegant freshness and concludes with a lingering, multifaceted finish. Blackberry aromas intertwine with delicate notes of lavender and sandalwood, adding to its bouquet’s allure.
Full-bodied and profoundly rich, the TSM harmonizes ripe fruit intensity with robust tannins and a touch of weight, making it a remarkable expression of Ribera del Duero’s potential, blending depth, elegance, and power seamlessly.
We award this wine a 95-point DWA score.
Expanding Global Horizons
Despite its deep roots in Spain, where 85% of its production is sold, Bodegas Carmelo Rodero has ambitious plans for global growth. Markets like Mexico, Switzerland, and the Netherlands have embraced its wines, and the winery is committed to strengthening its international presence. Events and collaborations with distributors play a crucial role in sharing the family’s story and wines with the world.
Celebrating the Vision and Craftsmanship of Bodegas Carmelo Rodero
Bodegas Carmelo Rodero is more than a winery; it is the embodiment of a visionary’s dream and a family’s passion. From its meticulously managed vineyards to its state-of-the-art facilities, every detail reflects the Rodero family’s commitment to excellence. For wine enthusiasts seeking authenticity, sophistication, and a connection to the roots of Ribera del Duero, Bodegas Carmelo Rodero offers an unparalleled experience. As we look back on our visit and the incredible tasting experiences, it is clear that this winery is a jewel in the crown of Spanish winemaking.
This article is written by our own Niels Aarts. We would like to thank Bodegas Carmelo Rodero (Jesús Sánchez López) and Heisterkamp Wijnkopers (in particular Wouter Kunkeler) for the opportunity to taste the wines and spend some time with us.
As mentioned, the wines of Bodegas Carmelo Rodero are imported in the Netherlands by Heisterkamp Wijnkopers and available through select retail and hospitality partners.
