Where in the World is Oregon?

Where in the World is Oregon?

Discovering Oregon with Nicolas-Jay.

 ‘Where in the world is Oregon?’  This question is often asked when Jean-Nicolas Méo of Burgundy’s Domaine Méo-Camuzet shares the story of his transatlantic project. The story is a tale of friendship – a friendship between a French winemaker and an American music entrepreneur. During a masterclass with Jean-Nicolas, organised by their importer Pallas Wines, our Hermen Jansen set down to uncover this marriage of spirits and elements.

Jay Boberg en Jean-Nicolas Méo met thirty years ago at the Harvard-University. Borberg pursued a job in music, Méo in winemaking. Nearly two decades later, united by their shared passion for wine, they joined forces to establish a winery in Oregon. The name Nicolas-Jay – a simple blend of their first names – embodies their philosophy. Méo is a man of great ideas, not big words. We listen as this warm and thoughtful man shares his vision for crafting wine in Oregon.

Where in the world is Oregon? 

Oregon lies in North-America, bordering the Pacific Ocean and nestled between California and Washington. Although geographically large and expansive, the state remains sparsely populated. Winemaking begins here in the 1960’s and has grown steadily ever since, attracting winemakers from around world – especially those from Burgundy. 

What Drew them to Oregon?

‘When I first visited Oregon, I didn’t understand the region at all,’ Méo admits. But after tasting a wide range of wines, everything clicked. ‘The dedication to Pinot Noir was one of the main reasons I embraced the idea of making wine here. The region and the climate allow for a broad spectrum of expressions of Pinot Noir.’  

Oregon’s Answer to Origin

The region is divided into nineteen American Viticultural Areas (AVAs). Although the system is based on origin, unlike the French appellation system, there are no rules on production methods. Nonetheless, Méo regards the system as effective. 

‘One of my greatest surprises was observing how distinctive the wines are, how they truly reflect their origins. Pinot Noir from Dundee Hills AVA is fundamentally different from Pinot Noir from Eola-Amity Hills AVA. In my opinion, the AVA system is as close as you can get to the French appellation system.’

Climate: Damp yet Fortunate

On climate, the outlook is less sunny than one might expect. ‘I remember a fancy coastal resorts promoting the climate as Mediterranean. Really? No. It’s southern Brittany at its best.’  Oregon has a well-deserved reputation for being damp. It receives about one and a half times as much rain as Burgundy. The silver lining is that it hardly rains in summer, lowering disease pressure. ‘They don’t know mildew, the lucky ones,” Méo says with a smile, ‘and they don’t even realise how lucky they are.’ That said, summer droughts present their own challenges.

Natural Air Conditioning

A defining factor for viticulture in Oregon is the Coastal Range, the mountains separating the region from the Pacific Ocean. These mountains shield the vineyards from excessively cold ocean winds. At the same time, the Van Duzer Corridor acts like a giant natural fan. The corridor draws in cool air, providing refreshing cool evenings and nights. The high diurnal range helps preserve freshness and the grapes’ inherent aromas.

Geological Palette

While there are climatic parallels between Oregon and Burgundy, the soils tell a different story. “Soils in Burgundy are quite homogeneous – clay and chalk, or chalk and clay,” Méo states. Soils in Oregon vary fundamentally, ranging from marine sedimentary to volcanic soils. These differences in soil types result in a wide spectrum of wine styles.

A Burgundian vision in Oregon

Oregon’s tight-knit system of growers and winemakers allows Méo to work hand in hand with talented growers. ‘We collaborate with our growers with great trust.’ Though the initial plan was to only make blends, Méo was so excited by his first vintage that he decided to also produce single-vineyard wines. ‘We must bring out the unique personality of certain sites – for the sake of our project and community.’

True to his Burgundian roots, Méo strongly believes in the potential of Chardonnay. Although the region struggled with underripe California clones for a while, this issue was resolved when Dijon clones arrived in the late 1990s. Unlike his Pinot Noirs, which he harvests early, he picks Chardonnay a bit later than many peers. ‘People in Oregon tend to look too much to Burgundy when it comes to Chardonnay,’ he says. In his vision, picking too early leads to ‘steely sharp acids.’ ‘I want my Chardonnay to feel ripe – slightly tight, but balanced.’

The Wines

Our encounter with Jean-Nicolas would not be complete without a tasting of the wines of course. Below our findings and ratings of the wines we tasted.

2023 Nicolas-Jay – Affinités Chardonnay

This Chardonnay opens with a delicate smoky nuance, showcasing a classic Burgundy style. The bouquet reveals floral notes, fresh citrus, a subtle hint of creaminess, and touches of white herbs. 

On the palate, the wine offers a gentle weight at the entry, yet remains nuanced and crisp throughout. There is a fine, refined and well-balanced creaminess. The fruit is beautifully ripe, with ripe citrus flavours balanced by a tight structure. Bright acidity lends a vibrant lift, accentuating flavours of citrus, green apple, and floral spiciness that linger towards the long-lasting and graceful finish. 

DWA-score: 92 points

2023 Nicolas-Jay – L’Esemble Pinot Noir

This wine opens with a warm, inviting nose of strawberry – leaning slightly towards strawberry marmalade – rosehip, and a gentle floral lift. The aromatics are expressive and open, with a charming ripeness that remains fresh and balanced.

On the palate, the wine is open soft and accessible, offering a ripe, almost sweet-fruited character without tipping into over-ripeness. There’s a pleasant mid-palate grip that lends structure and keeps the wine grounded. The texture is supple and easygoing, with a subtle jammy edge that feels polished rather than heavy. Refined tannins and bright acids bring freshness and definition, especially on the finish, where notes of red currant and gentle spice linger.

DWA-score: 91 points

2023 Nicolas-Jay – Own-Rooted Pinot Noir 

The Own-Rooted Pinot Noir opens with a more reserved, brooding character compared to its siblings. Aromas of wet stone, cinnamon, and subtle floral notes create a refined, almost Burgundian expression. With time in the glass, delicate red fruits (particularly raspberry) begin to emerge.

On the palate, the wine is taut and finely structured, vibrant and grippy. It leans less on overt fruit, yet offers a subtle thread of ripe red berries. There is intensity here! Linear, precise, and persistent. This is a delicate and focused Pinot Noir, showing elegance over exuberance, with a long, finish that rewards attention.

DWA-score: 93 points

2023 Nicolas-Jay – Bishop Creek Pinot Noir

Refined yet powerful, the Bishop Creek Pinot Noir reveals a wine of quiet intensity and hidden depth. It opens with bright aromas of red currant and tangy red berries.

On the palate, the wine shows refined power and underlying tension. Fine, vibrant tannins create a delicate yet firm structure, giving the wine definition from the start. Bright red currant and tart red berries dominate the core, lifted by vivid acidity that adds energy and precision.

There’s a soft, warm-fruited edge that brings balance, preventing the wine from feeling austere, yet the overall impression remains focused and linear. The tannins tighten slightly toward the finish, which is long and spicy, marked by red berry, zest and a subtle hint of blood orange. 

A wine of quiet intensity, with hidden strength and aging potential, more severe in character than its counterparts.

DWA -score: 94 points

Where in the World?

What started as a friendship between a French winemaker and an American music entrepreneur has grown into a thoughtful and exciting wine project. Old-world expertise meets new-world energy – and the results speak for themselves. Where in the world? In Oregon!

More appetite for Jean Nicolas Meo and Burgundy?

If you are interested to learn more about Jean-Nicolas’s work at Méo-Camuzet, in Burgundy, check out our article ‘From Heritage to Horizon, the Journey of Domaine Méo-Camuzet’ and our Podcast with Jean-Nicolas.

This article is written by our own Hermen Jansen, Origine Wijnen. Nicolas-Jay, and Méo Camuzet are imported in the Netherlands by Pallas Wines, and available through selected retail and hospitality partners.