An Exploration of Terroir, Precision, and Emotion from the Nahe
In collaboration with Residence Wijnen, we attended a remarkable masterclass and lunch dedicated to Weingut Dönnhoff, one of Germany’s most revered Riesling producers. The event was hosted by Anne Dönnhoff, representing the family’s legacy in the Nahe region, and offered a rare opportunity to experience the full stylistic range of the estate — from elegant Weißburgunder to profound Großes Gewächs and age-defying sweet wines.
The afternoon unfolded in two parts: an in-depth masterclass that explored Dönnhoff’s terroirs and winemaking philosophy, followed by a three-course lunch pairing that demonstrated how precision and emotion can coexist seamlessly at the table.
Few names in German wine command the same respect as Dönnhoff. Founded over three centuries ago and today managed by Cornelius Dönnhoff, the estate is located in Oberhausen an der Nahe, a picturesque village surrounded by steep, terraced vineyards.
Dönnhoff has long been a member of the prestigious VDP (Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter), Germany’s top association for fine wine producers. Its vineyard holdings — including Hermannshöhle, Dellchen, Brücke and Felsenberg — are regarded among the most distinguished in the Nahe, if not all of Germany.
What sets Dönnhoff apart is a philosophy of quiet excellence. Every vineyard is hand-harvested, each parcel vinified separately, and fermentation typically takes place in large, neutral oak casks known as Stückfass or Doppelstück. The goal is always purity: to allow the soils, not the cellar, to speak.
This approach has produced wines that are celebrated for their clarity, mineral depth, and graceful aging potential. It is not uncommon for Dönnhoff’s Rieslings to evolve beautifully over decades, developing layers of honey, spice, and brioche while retaining a core of crystalline acidity.
Before the lunch commenced, guests participated in a structured tasting of eight flights, each designed to showcase a different expression of vineyard, soil type, and style. Anne Dönnhoff guided the session with approachable charm and deep technical insight, illustrating how even subtle changes in soil composition and microclimate can translate into profound sensory differences.
Flight 1 – The Introduction
2024 Weißburgunder Trocken – 88/100 DWA score
Lean and refreshing, this Pinot Blanc (Weißburgunder) introduced Dönnhoff’s signature purity. Citrus blossom and green apple aromas lead into a crisp palate of pear, chalk, and almond. A perfect “house white” that emphasizes balance over opulence.
Flight 2 – Slate and Volcano
2024 Tonschiefer Riesling Trocken – 90/100 DWA score
Classic Nahe Riesling from grey slate soils, showing lime zest, wet stone, and saline minerality. Focused and vertical, with a long, dry finish.
2024 Schlossböckelheimer Riesling Trocken – 91/100 DWA score
From volcanic soils, this wine is broader and smokier, with hints of yellow fruit, flint, and wild herbs. A perfect foil to the Tonschiefer’s linearity, highlighting the dual character of the Nahe’s geology.
Flight 3 – The Character of Kahlenberg (Premier Cru)
2023 Kreuznacher Kahlenberg Erstes Gewächs – 93/100 DWA score
Ripe and expressive, marked by peach, quince, and chamomile. The 2023 vintage brings warmth and charm, finishing with fine tension.
2024 Kreuznacher Kahlenberg Erstes Gewächs – 94/100 DWA score
More precise and mineral than its predecessor, the 2024 vintage shows remarkable purity and lift. Layers of lemon peel, crushed quartz, and delicate herbs lead to a firm, elegant close. A Premier Cru with Grand Cru ambition.
Flight 4 – The Höllenpfad (“Path to Hell”)
2024 Roxheimer Höllenpfad Trocken Erstes Gewächs – 93/100 DWA score
Distinctive red sandstone character, giving the wine its spicy edge. Aromas of apricot, fennel, and white pepper with a structured, dry backbone.
2016 Roxheimer Höllenpfad Trocken – 94/100 DWA score
Now beautifully mature, showing honeyed tones, caramelized citrus, and brioche complexity. The palate remains taut and energetic, confirming Dönnhoff’s reputation for longevity.
Flight 5 – The Subtle Power of Krötenpfuhl
2024 Kreuznacher Krötenpfuhl Großes Gewächs – 94/100 DWA score
Aromatic yet understated, with notes of pear, wildflowers, and a faint herbal lift. Elegant texture and superb balance — a lesson in restraint.
2017 Kreuznacher Krötenpfuhl Großes Gewächs – 94/100 DWA score
Slightly more rounded, with toasted spice and orange peel notes. The freshness of the site remains intact, emphasizing Krötenpfuhl’s dual talent for dry and off-dry wines.
Flight 6 – The Icon: Hermannshöhle
2024 Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Großes Gewächs – 97/100 DWA score
The jewel of the Dönnhoff portfolio. Deep, complex, and endlessly layered, with aromas of stone fruit, graphite, and crushed rock. The palate combines power with weightless precision — one of the finest expressions of Riesling in Germany.
2019 Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Großes Gewächs – 96/100 DWA score
A richer and slightly more open vintage, balancing ripe peach and lemon curd with a crystalline core. Long, noble, and utterly complete.
Flight 7 – Kabinett Charm
2024 Oberhäuser Leistenberg Kabinett – 92/100 DWA score
Delicate and refreshing, this Kabinett shows jasmine, green apple, and a hint of white peach. Light sweetness balanced by racy acidity — a perfect lunchtime or aperitif Riesling.
Flight 8 – The Brücke Legacy
2024 Oberhäuser Brücke Monopol Spätlese – 96/100 DWA score
Refined and deeply aromatic, combining ripe pineapple, honey, and orange zest with thrilling acidity. Silky yet vibrant, showing impeccable poise.
2003 Oberhäuser Brücke Spätlese – 98/100 DWA score
A masterclass in aged Riesling. Aromas of dried apricot, tea leaf, and candied citrus unfold into a palate of remarkable depth. Still fresh despite two decades in bottle — the essence of longevity and balance.
Following the masterclass, guests were invited to stay seated and enjoy a lunch, which was designed to highlight the versatility of Riesling across styles and vintages. The setting emphasized intimacy and dialogue, with Anne Dönnhoff and Chef Dennis Liem sharing insights into the creative process behind each pairing.
Aperitif
2019 Dönnhoff Pinot Brut – 91/100 DWA Score
This traditional-method Sekt opened the lunch with elegance and clarity. Fine bubbles, aromas of citrus peel and almond pastry, and a saline finish reflected the house’s precision even beyond Riesling.
Starter
Smoked herring, remoulade of celeriac, apple, and watercress
Paired with: 2024 Tonschiefer Riesling Trocken – 90/100 DWA Score
The smoky, oily depth of the herring found a refreshing counterpoint in the slate-driven minerality of the Tonschiefer. The wine’s brisk acidity cut cleanly through the richness of the dish, while the apple and celeriac mirrored the citrus and herbal notes in the wine. A daring yet thought-provoking combination that revealed Riesling’s power with salty, umami-driven flavors.
Main Course
Rabbit fricassee with mustard and tarragon, soft sauerkraut and goose fat potatoes
Paired with: 2013 Norheimer Dellchen Riesling Trocken, Großes Gewächs – 95/100 DWA Score
The mature Dellchen demonstrated why aged Riesling deserves a place at the fine dining table. With its layered aromas of quince, hazelnut, and volcanic smoke, the wine resonated beautifully with the savory complexity of the rabbit. Its subtle creaminess and herbal undertones complemented the tarragon and mustard sauce, while its structure lent tension to the comforting richness of the dish. A near-perfect pairing.
Dessert
Gingerbread pudding with citrus, ginger, and mace
Paired with: 2011 Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Auslese – 97/100 DWA Score
A grand finale in every sense. The Auslese’s luscious sweetness carried notes of apricot, honey, and exotic spice, yet retained laser-sharp acidity that kept the palate fresh. The warm spices in the dessert echoed the wine’s complexity, resulting in a harmonious and deeply satisfying close to the meal.
The Dönnhoff masterclass and lunch at Residence Wijnen illustrated the unique duality of the estate’s wines: they are both intellectual and emotional, precise yet soulful. From the disciplined craftsmanship of the dry Großes Gewächs to the timeless beauty of the sweet wines, each bottle told a story of terroir, patience, and family tradition.
For guests, the experience reaffirmed Dönnhoff’s place among Germany’s elite — not merely as a technical benchmark for Riesling, but as a producer that captures the quiet poetry of its region.
At the end of the day, what lingered most was not a single wine or pairing, but the balance — between tradition and innovation, between minerality and emotion, and between the glass and the plate.
Article by our own Niels Aarts. With special thanks to Anne Dönnhoff for her inspiring presentation and generosity in sharing the estate’s wines, Chef Dennis Liem for his precise and thoughtful pairings, and Residence Wijnen for hosting this memorable afternoon. Picture credits: Weingut Dönnhoff and Peter Bender.
Weingut Dönnhoff’s wines are available in the Netherlands through Residence Wijnen (for professionals) and De Gouden Ton (for consumers).
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