On an exceptionally stormy Saturday evening in The Hague, the journey to Strandpaviljoen De Kwartel already sets the tone. A walk-through forest gives way to dunes, sand whipping through the air as waves crash onto the shore. From a distance, warm light spills from the pavilion windows, offering a welcoming contrast to the elements outside. Inside, the atmosphere is convivial and relaxed. Crisp white tablecloths are laid out at the back of the pavilion, ready for an evening dedicated to South African wine and food.
Guests are welcomed with a glass of Blanc de Blancs Cap Classique from Merwida in the Breedekloof, Western Cape. Subtle yeast notes, lime, apple and almond are supported by a fine, elegant mousse. Paired with a pulled chicken empanada and a velvety butternut soup, it proves an assured and generous opening to the evening.
The focus of the dinner is Waterkloof Wines, represented this evening by Louis Boutinot, who has travelled from England to present the estate. Boutinot is the son of Paul Boutinot, whose unconventional path into wine began not in vineyards, but in construction, before returning to Manchester to work in the family restaurant. Faced with limited quality wine in England at the time, Paul began importing wines from France, a venture that grew into Boutinot Wines. Winemaking followed, initially from purchased grapes, until the acquisition of Waterkloof in 2003.
Waterkloof’s vineyards are situated on the Schapenberg, just four kilometers from the coast of False Bay. The proximity to the ocean is a defining factor, shaping both style and philosophy. As the first course is served—crayfish on a bed of lettuce with pomegranate seeds and grapefruit vinaigrette—the Cape Coral Rosé 2024 is poured. Fruit-forward, with aromas of raspberry, cherry and grapefruit, the wine’s freshness mirrors the dish, while the citrus vinaigrette and briny seafood form a particularly successful pairing. Notably, this wine is also served at the British Royal Household.
With the Circumstance Sauvignon Blanc in the glass, Louis elaborates on Waterkloof’s cool-climate conditions. Strong coastal winds moderate temperatures and preserve freshness in the vineyards closest to the ocean. The wine is crisp and precise, marked by citrus fruit and balanced acidity, and it pairs seamlessly with a fragrant, spiced South African-style mussel dish.
Beyond climate and location, Waterkloof’s identity is closely tied to sustainability. In 2008, the estate became one of the first WWF Conservation Champions in the Western Cape. Today, approximately half of its land is reserved for the protection of indigenous and endangered plant species, part of one of the world’s five major floral regions. This broader view of stewardship extends to the wellbeing of the estate’s employees and informs the creation of wines such as the Circle of Life White.
The fish course—red gurnard fillet with clarified butter sauce, grilled lemon and pumpkin purée—is paired with the Circle of Life White, a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc and Sémillon. Aromas of ripe tropical fruit and pear are complemented by gentle buttery notes. The wine shows both generosity and structure, with clear ageing potential over the next eight to ten years.
As the storm continues to batter the beach outside, the atmosphere inside remains warm and animated. Conversation flows easily between tables, some of which are deliberately mixed, adding a social dimension to the evening.
Grilled lamb skewers with roasted cherry tomatoes, porcini jus and sautéed mushrooms follow, accompanied by the Circumstance Cabernet Sauvignon 2020. A cool-climate expression, the wine shows dark fruit notes of blackberry and cherry, hints of chocolate and smooth, integrated tannins. Its earthy undertones echo the mushrooms, while the tannic structure complements the lamb.
The final savoury course features grilled venison steak with Cumberland sauce and truffle potatoes, paired with Seriously Cool Cinsault 2023. Produced from 30-year-old vines and gently foot-crushed, the wine is served lightly chilled. Aromas of strawberry and raspberry are joined by subtle earthy notes, integrating effortlessly with the dish. Elegant and persistent, it stands out as a highlight of the evening.
Dessert concludes the dinner on a generous note: a large platter of sweet treats to share, including mini cheesecakes, passion fruit parfait and chocolate mousse, alongside an equally abundant cheese board for those inclined.
As the evening draws to a close, guests step back into the storm, leaving behind warmth, good company and a clear impression of Waterkloof’s coastal identity. Thanks are due to the team at Strandpaviljoen De Kwartel, to Louis Boutinot, and to the importer involved (Delta Wines), for an evening where food, wine and place came together despite the elements.
Shortly after this memorable evening, Strandpaviljoen De Kwartel closed its doors for the winter season, as many beach pavilions along the Dutch coast do. Now, with spring returning to the dunes and the first warmer days arriving by the North Sea, the pavilion has reopened—bringing renewed energy and an expanded program for the months ahead.
The team has refreshed the wine list, placing greater emphasis on both carefully selected bottles and a thoughtful by-the-glass offering. Alongside this, De Kwartel plans to host a series of wine-focused events throughout the season, including Bring Your Own Bottle (BYOB) evenings, a Summer Tasting, and a number of premium winemaker dinners. The first of these has already been announced: a Veneto-themed dinner scheduled for the 16th June.
For wine lovers and gastronomic explorers alike, there will be ample reason to return to this distinctive spot between forest, dunes and sea.
This article is written by our own Monica Pol. Waterkloof is imported and distributed in the Netherlands by Delta Wines, and available through select retail and hospitality partners. We would like to thank Delta Wines (Rachel), De Kwartel (Sabrina, Wilfred, sommelier Jan-Willem and hostess Laura) for their invitation and the great night!
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