2022 Tandaradai Riesling – von der Vogelwaide.
Recently, we had the pleasure of reviewing a selection of wines from von der Vogelwaide—a standout discovery of 2024. This winery has quickly gained attention for its distinctive approach to winemaking in Austria’s renowned Wachau region.
At the helm are Daniel and Michael, who craft a compelling portfolio of wines, with Tandaradai as the jewel in their crown. This flagship wine is produced in two expressions: a single-varietal Riesling and a Grüner Veltliner.
In this review, we focus on the 2022 Riesling edition.
About the Winery
In a region steeped in tradition and centuries-old vineyards, von der Vogelwaide is breaking new ground—literally and philosophically. Founded in 2019 by Daniel Vogelwaid and Michael Donabaum, this remarkable wine project from Austria’s Wachau region defies the conventional, choosing instead a path defined by freedom, sustainability, and bold creativity.
What sets von der Vogelwaide apart is more than just its wines—it’s the story and spirit behind them. Daniel and Michael, both deeply rooted in viticulture, bring a wealth of international experience from top estates such as Château Palmer, Comtes Lafon, Domaine de l’Horizon, Franz Hirtzberger, and Tokara. Their paths crossed through a shared vision: to build something truly personal, unbound by the strict conventions often associated with the term “Weingut.” In fact, the pair consciously avoid that label, preferring to define their identity through their values: biodynamics, innovation, and individuality.
Their journey began with a striking appeal to vineyard owners across the Wachau in search of forgotten, hard-to-reach plots. Within days, they found their first two hidden gems—overgrown and almost unrecognizable—but full of potential. One of these was Ried Schön in the Spitzer Graben, a steep site they lovingly refer to as “a sleeping beauty.” Supported by a mix of idealism, determination, and family—including the helping hands of Grandma Donabaum—they began the painstaking process of revitalizing these parcels. Today, they farm 3 hectares organically, with 2.3 hectares in production.
Their approach is labor-intensive and traditional—steep vineyards require manual care and precision. But it’s in the cellar that the philosophy of von der Vogelwaide fully comes to life. Intervention is kept to a minimum. Fermentations are spontaneous, additions are avoided, and the wines are matured slowly, typically in used Burgundy barrels. This patient, hands-off style results in layered and textural wines, with creamy cuvées of Grüner Veltliner and Riesling that show both purity and depth—sometimes even a subtle nod to the Rhône.
Daniel and Michael are more than winemakers; they’re creators. Daniel, the cellar master, holds degrees in viticulture and oenology from Geisenheim, Bordeaux, and Vienna, while Michael—who grew up among vines—brings a flair for interior design, which translates into thoughtful presentation and brand aesthetics. “We complement each other well,” Michael explains. “Daniel loves the cellar. I’m passionate about everything that comes after—sales, design, and communication.”
Their wines mirror their ethos: unconventional, deeply personal, and attuned to nature. They are wines that invite reflection, best enjoyed with time and intention. “Bottle aging is essential for us,” they explain. “When our wines hit the market, they’re like a custom-made pair of shoes: the older they get, the more refined and enjoyable they become.”
In a world often driven by speed and sameness, von der Vogelwaide offers a refreshing counterpoint—a tribute to patience, originality, and a deep respect for the land. In doing so, they are reshaping the narrative of modern Austrian wine, one thoughtful bottle at a time.
About the Wine
A Riesling that dances between wild nature and pure precision.
There are wines that reflect a vineyard. Others reflect a vintage. And then there are wines like Tandaradai—that seem to reflect the minds and hearts of those who created them. With their 2022 Riesling, von der Vogelwaide captures not just a sense of place, but a sense of freedom, of quiet rebellion, and of deep, studied craft.
Made by Daniel Vogelwaid and Michael Donabaum, Tandaradai is the flagship of this biodynamic, non-traditional wine project in Austria’s Wachau. The name itself, inspired by medieval poetry, suggests rhythm and movement—a fitting metaphor for a wine that feels alive in every sense. The 2022 vintage is a wine that demands attention, not through power, but through its grace and inner tension.
The grapes come from two exceptional single vineyards—Biern and Trauntal—perched steeply on the rocky slopes above the Danube. These are not easy sites to farm. Old vines cling to thin soils, worked entirely by hand. It’s this hardship, perhaps, that gives the wine its quiet intensity. The fruit is selectively hand-harvested, gently pressed in whole bunches, then left to ferment spontaneously. It undergoes malolactic conversion and rests for 12 months on the fine lees in old 350-liter oak barrels before being bottled unfiltered.
In the glass, the wine glows a vivid greenish-yellow, crystalline and pure. The nose opens slowly but deliberately, like a curtain being drawn. First, there’s the lift of lime zest and white peach, followed by alpine herbs, white flowers, and a whisper of smoky flint. With air, the aromatic profile deepens—yellow fruit, a hint of spice, and the kind of stony salinity that only old vines in rocky soils can produce. On the palate, the Tandaradai is both sculpted and supple. There’s a finesse-driven acidity that forms the backbone, lifting the juicy core of citrus, peach, and herbal tea into something precise yet textured. The wine feels structured, but not rigid; polished, but never sterile. Lees aging lends a subtle creaminess that cushions the mineral edge without dulling its clarity.
And then comes the finish—long, linear, and clean, with waves of citrus oil, salt, and cool mountain herbs that echo long after the glass is empty. It’s not a wine that shouts, but one that sings in layers. It’s also a wine that will evolve beautifully in bottle—with aging potential easily reaching a decade or more.
Tandaradai 2022 isn’t just von der Vogelwaide’s top wine. It’s a statement of their philosophy: that great wine is a collaboration between nature, patience, and fearless creativity. It’s Riesling reimagined—not stripped of its tradition, but unshackled from it. This is a wine for those who appreciate detail, who enjoy the slow reveal of a wine that speaks in whispers rather than exclamations. And for those willing to listen, Tandaradai 2022 tells a story worth savoring.
We award this wine a 94-point DWA score.
This review is written by our own Niels Aarts. Von der Vogelwaide is imported in the Netherlands by Anfors Imperial, and also available at selected hospitality partners.
Price: €72,75
Taste Date: March 2024
Score: 94/100 DWA Score
Website: von der Vogelwaide