Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey – 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet ‘Les Ancegnières’

Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey – 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet ‘Les Ancegnières’.

With the 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet ‘Les Ancegnières’, Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey once again demonstrates why his village wines are so closely followed. Where the 2019 Bourgogne Aligoté (reviewed earlier on our site) showed precision and saline drive at regional level, this Chardonnay takes a clear step up in depth and complexity—without losing the clarity and restraint that define the domaine’s style.

This is a village wine that refuses to shout. Instead, it builds its authority through balance, texture, and a finely tuned sense of place. Calm, focused, and quietly confident, it feels very much like a wine that knows exactly what it is.

About the Winery

Based in Chassagne-Montrachet, Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey has, over the past two decades, become one of the most influential figures in white Burgundy. What began as a small négociant project has steadily evolved into a domaine-led operation, with an ever-stronger emphasis on estate fruit, meticulous vineyard work, and a highly controlled approach in the cellar.

A key development in recent years has been the move to newer, colder cellars in Chassagne-Montrachet. This change has had a tangible impact on the wines, allowing for more stable fermentations, greater precision during élevage, and more nuanced decisions around sulphur management. The result is wines that feel slightly more open and expressive in their youth, while retaining the tension and longevity for which Colin-Morey is known.

Another notable evolution is the ongoing refinement of élevage, particularly for village and regional wines. There is increasing attention to barrel size, lees contact, and timing, with the clear intention of building texture and complexity without sacrificing freshness. These are not dramatic stylistic shifts, but subtle calibrations—very much in line with a producer who believes progress comes from fine-tuning rather than reinvention.

As we continue to publish a small series of Colin-Morey reviews, this gradual evolution becomes increasingly clear: consistency of vision, paired with a quiet but constant search for greater precision.

About the Wine

The 2020 vintage lends this Chassagne-Montrachet a natural sense of balance. In the glass, it shows a pale straw colour with a bright, lively sheen.

The nose is elegant and restrained, opening with citrus zest, ripe pear, and white peach. Floral notes follow—acacia and white blossom—alongside a subtle hint of hazelnut and a fine chalky minerality. There is a gentle reductive nuance that adds tension and complexity without ever dominating the fruit.

On the palate, the wine is poised and layered. The entry is fresh and precise, with a well-judged line of acidity that carries the wine effortlessly across the palate. The mid-palate reveals more depth and texture than the Aligoté, with a discreet creamy note that adds volume while remaining firmly in balance. Fruit, acidity, and minerality are tightly interwoven.

The finish is long, clean, and quietly savoury, marked by a subtle saline touch and a refined, lightly nutty bitterness. It leaves a mouthwatering impression and underlines the wine’s distinctly gastronomic character.

Pairing suggestions

An excellent match for roast chicken, veal, grilled turbot, or scallops with a classic beurre blanc. It also pairs beautifully with dishes featuring lemon, herbs, or lightly toasted nuts. For cheese, young Comté or a mild Alpine-style cheese works particularly well.

Conclusion

Already highly enjoyable, this 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet ‘Les Ancegnières’ has the structure and balance to evolve gracefully over the coming years, gradually moving toward more savoury, nut-driven complexity while retaining its core freshness.

We award this wine a 92-point DWA score.

For further insight into the domaine’s style, see our earlier review of the 2019 Bourgogne Aligoté by Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey.

This review is written by our own Niels Aarts.

Taste Date:                 September 2025

Website:                     Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey