Domaine A.F. Gros – 2020 Beaune 1er Cru Les Montrevenots

Domaine A.F. Gros – 2020 Beaune 1er Cru Les Montrevenots.

Pride, pedigree, and precision come together beautifully in this 2020 Beaune Premier Cru Les Montrevenots from Domaine A.F. Gros. It is a wine that speaks in a refined voice rather than a loud one, combining ripe fruit with altitude-driven freshness and a distinctly Burgundian sense of restraint. The result is a Chardonnay that feels both gastronomic and intellectual: elegant, layered, and quietly persistent, with enough depth to reward patience in the glass.

About the Winery

Domaine A.F. Gros represents a remarkable meeting point in Burgundy’s long family history. The estate was founded in 1988, following the division of vineyards from Domaine Jean Gros among the children of Jean Gros and his wife. Anne-Françoise Gros—whose name now stands on the label—married François Parent, linking two important winemaking families: the Gros family of Vosne-Romanée and the Parent family of Pommard.

Based in Pommard, the domaine today farms around 10 hectares across both the Côte de Nuits and the Côte de Beaune, with additional holdings beyond Burgundy’s traditional heartland. While the estate is widely associated with red wines, its white wines have increasingly drawn attention for their clarity, energy, and refined texture.

In recent years, a new chapter has begun. Anne-Françoise and François have handed over responsibility to their children, with Mathias Parent managing both vineyard work and winemaking, and Caroline involved in the estate’s development and communication. The generational shift is noticeable in style: the wines show greater precision and finesse, with a stronger emphasis on purity of fruit and terroir expression.

Farming is organic, and the approach in the cellar is increasingly minimal-intervention. Since 2019, the domaine has leaned more into whole-bunch fermentation for certain reds, while also moderating the use of new oak—especially in Premier Cru and Grand Cru wines—allowing the vineyards to speak more clearly. Even in a white wine like Les Montrevenots, that philosophy translates into a more transparent, less “worked” expression, where freshness and mineral character are allowed to take the lead.

About the Vineyard

Les Montrevenots is one of Beaune’s most distinctive Premier Cru sites, and one that deserves far more attention than it often receives. With an average altitude of over 300 meters, it is considered Beaune’s highest Premier Cru vineyard. It lies directly above the celebrated Clos des Mouches and sits close to the border with Pommard—geographically and stylistically hinting at both Beaune’s elegance and the more structured seriousness often associated with its southern neighbor.

Traditionally, this site was planted predominantly with Pinot Noir, which makes white examples particularly compelling. Chardonnay plantings have expanded in more recent years, but white Montrevenots remains relatively rare—Domaine A.F. Gros being among the few producers committed to capturing this terroir in a white-wine expression.

What makes the site so attractive for Chardonnay is its combination of elevation and exposure. The higher altitude contributes to a cooler microclimate, preserving acidity and aromatic detail, while the vineyard’s position gives the fruit enough ripeness to avoid austerity. The result tends to be Chardonnay with a firmer backbone than many “easy” Beaune whites: less overtly opulent, more defined by structure, tension, and length.

This is also a Premier Cru with serious neighbors and notable ownership across the appellation, underlining its status among Burgundy insiders. For Domaine A.F. Gros, it offers a stage to showcase Chardonnay in a way that feels distinctly Beaune—bright, mineral, and quietly confident.

About the Wine

The 2020 Les Montrevenots was tasted in 2025, and it shows exactly what we hope for from a well-made Premier Cru Chardonnay after a few years in bottle: more harmony, more complexity, and a deeper sense of place. The wine has moved beyond its primary fruit phase and now delivers a more composed, quietly confident expression—still fresh, but clearly more developed and layered.

In the glass, the colour has shifted from pale straw toward a slightly deeper gold, with a soft sheen that suggests both maturity and concentration. It remains bright and energetic, yet the hue already hints at evolution.

On the nose, the wine opens with ripe orchard fruit—white peach and yellow plum—now joined by more nuanced, secondary tones. There is a gentle suggestion of orange peel, subtle blossom, and a warmer, lightly nutty character reminiscent of toasted almond. With air, the aromatics broaden further into hints of pastry-like richness and a delicate savoury spice, all beautifully integrated rather than overt.

The palate is where the 2025 tasting really confirms the quality of the wine. The structure has become more seamless: acidity remains vibrant and precise, but it feels less sharp and more woven into the texture. A discreet creamy note—never heavy—adds roundness through the mid-palate, while the vineyard’s altitude-driven freshness continues to keep everything lifted. The fruit is still present, but it has become more refined and less overtly “bright,” leaning into ripe stone fruit and citrus zest rather than pure lemon juice.

What stands out most is the balance between elegance and substance. This is not a showy Chardonnay built on oak or power, but a Premier Cru that delivers depth through detail. Toward the finish, a fine spicy edge appears alongside a subtle, sophisticated bitterness—think citrus pith and crushed almond—which adds grip and reinforces its gastronomic character. The finish is long, clean, and mineral, leaving a mouthwatering impression that invites another sip.

Pairing suggestions

This is a natural match for roast chicken, veal with a light cream sauce, grilled turbot, scallops, or lobster with beurre blanc. It also pairs beautifully with dishes that include lemon, herbs, or lightly toasted nuts. For cheese, Comté is an excellent choice, echoing the wine’s nutty complexity without overpowering its finesse.

Even with its current level of development, this 2020 Les Montrevenots still has room to evolve further. Over the next few years, expect the wine to continue shifting toward hazelnut, brioche, and more savoury mineral tones—while maintaining the freshness that makes it so complete today.

We award this wine a 92-point DWA score.

This review is written by our own Niels Aarts. The wines of Domaine A.F. Gros are imported and distributed in the Netherlands by Best of Wines and also available for (international) direct sale through their webshop.

Taste Date:                  July 2025

Website:                      Domaine A.F. Gros