Weingut Franz Hirtzberger – 2011 Riesling Smaragd Hochrain
White
Austria
Wachau
Riesling
Spiegelau Definition Universal
83.49 EURO
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A modern Moulis-en-Médoc that bridges tradition and innovation, combining classic Left Bank structure with a supple, contemporary expression.
Between the storied names of Margaux and Saint-Julien lies Moulis-en-Médoc, the smallest appellation of the Médoc but one with a voice of its own. Here, on the plateau of Grand Poujeaux, gravel soils and scattered parcels give rise to wines that marry structure with charm, tradition with freshness. It is a landscape less known than its neighbors, yet cherished by those who seek character and value in Bordeaux.
From this setting comes Château Branas Grand Poujeaux, an estate that has steadily risen in stature over the past two decades. Under the direction of Dutch co-owner and winemaker Arjen Pen, Branas has become a symbol of modern Médoc winemaking: bold in ambition, precise in execution, and unafraid to challenge convention. The 2020 vintage reflects this philosophy in full — a wine of depth and drama, balanced by elegance and a clear sense of place.
Château Branas Grand Poujeaux is located in the heart of Moulis-en-Médoc, on the famous Grand Poujeaux plateau. Though its history dates back to the 18th century, the estate’s renaissance began in 2002, when Belgian businessman Justin Onclin acquired the property and invested heavily in modernization.
A decisive new chapter began in 2018, when Dutchman Arjen Pen joined the estate. By 2019, Pen and fellow investor Hindrik Gommer became majority owners, with Pen also taking on the role of winemaker. His arrival brought renewed vision: combining Médoc tradition with innovation and an eye toward sustainability. Since 2002, the vineyards have been managed without pesticides, soils are mechanically cultivated, and new plantings are at higher density to improve concentration and balance.
The estate has also grown significantly. Today, Branas Grand Poujeaux extends over 23 hectares, having doubled in size with the incorporation of a neighboring vineyard. Its holdings are highly morcellated, spread across the plateau of Grand Poujeaux on deep gravel soils. Plantings now consist of approximately 60% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Petit Verdot.
Pen works alongside Hubert de Boüard (of Château Angélus fame), whose Right Bank sensibility contributes to the château’s rich and expressive style. Together, they have crafted a vision that emphasizes ripe fruit, precision, and dramatic yet balanced wines, framed by a generous but well-integrated patina of oak.
For readers interested in Branas’ boldest innovation yet — the single-varietal Merlot Marpaout — we invite you to read our in-depth article “Marpaout: The Médoc’s Answer to Pomerol”.
Moulis-en-Médoc is the smallest appellation in the Médoc, with around 600 hectares under vine. Situated between Margaux and Saint-Julien, it offers a mosaic of soils, from gravel terraces to clay-limestone outcrops, producing wines that combine structure with approachability.
The plateau of Grand Poujeaux is particularly renowned for its gravel ridges, capable of yielding wines of classed growth quality. Branas Grand Poujeaux, with its scattered holdings across this prized terroir, stands as one of the most compelling examples of the appellation’s potential.
The 2020 vintage reflects a warm growing season, tempered by cool nights that preserved acidity and freshness. Harvesting was conducted parcel by parcel to ensure optimal ripeness.
Fermentation took place in temperature-controlled vats, with malolactic fermentation in barrel — around 50% new oak. Aging lasted 16–18 months, resulting in a wine that marries richness with finesse. The estate’s philosophy favors precision and detail, aiming for a style that is bold and dramatic but always finely balanced.
The 2020 Branas Grand Poujeaux is a strong effort from this rising estate. It opens aromatically with cherries, blackberries, and cassis, layered with sweet spices, licorice, loamy soil, and toasty new oak. More delicate notes emerge with air: bourbon vanilla, blond tobacco, toasted hazelnut, violet, and a faint saline-mineral edge.
On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, supple, and lively, with a dramatic richness that remains in check thanks to refreshing acidity and a fine-grained tannic frame. Juicy blackberry and fleshy raspberry dominate, complemented by hints of coffee, mocha, and graphite, while undertones of fresh herbs and floral lift add nuance.
The texture is round yet racy, combining substance with elegance. The finish is long, mineral, and persistent, marked by a touch of graphite and savory spice. This is a wine with both immediate appeal and serious aging potential.
Conclusion
The 2020 Château Branas Grand Poujeaux confirms the estate’s position as one of the stars of Moulis. It is a wine of energy, polish, and personality, reflecting both the strength of the Grand Poujeaux terroir and the vision of Arjen Pen. Bold yet balanced, it offers a broad drinking window — approachable now with a decant, but structured enough to evolve beautifully over the next 8–12 years.
We award this wine a 91-point DWA score – a confident and stylish Médoc that underscores why Branas Grand Poujeaux is a name to watch.
This review is written by our own Niels Aarts. For more information on Château Branas Grand Poujeaux check out our article ‘Marpaout: The Médoc’s Answer to Pomerol’.
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