On a crisp November evening, we attended a special culinary event on behalf of Dutch Wine Apprentice: a collaboration between Restaurant Le Havre in Elburg and Domburg Kaas, Noten & Wijn from Putten. Hosted at Le Havre, with Chef Peter Kok and Sommelier Massimiliano Simbula orchestrating the culinary experience and Erik Stoffelsen of Domburg curating the wines, the evening offered a seamless union of refined cooking and thoughtful wine pairings.
Le Havre occupies a historic building within the fortified medieval center of Elburg. The restaurant balances elegance and intimacy: warm lighting, subtle Art-Deco touches, and an open kitchen that brings diners close to the craft behind each plate. The ambiance feels quietly luxurious yet unmistakably welcoming — a space where hospitality and precision meet.
The partnership with Domburg lifted this dinner beyond a standard pairing experience. Each wine selection reflected a deliberate dialogue with the dish it accompanied, creating a tasting journey that unfolded with increasing depth and detail.
Aperitif
The evening opened with a refined expression of Bollinger’s Pinot Noir–driven cuvée. Bright acidity, fine mousse, notes of citrus zest, orchard fruit and subtle brioche prepared the palate beautifully — festive, focused, and perfectly poised for the menu ahead.
1st Course — Tartare
A meticulously layered dish: the tartare was delicately seasoned, offering purity and finesse. Creams of avocado and egg yolk brought silkiness, contrasting with the crisp texture of the brick pastry. The clear tomato jelly added freshness, while the Beluga caviar introduced a subtle salinity and luxury — an elegant, modern interpretation of a classic.
A precise, mineral-driven Chablis with notes of green apple, crushed oyster shell and saline tension. Its linear acidity sliced through the creaminess of the dish, refreshing the palate while echoing the briny accents of the caviar. A beautifully balanced pairing.
2nd Course — Langoustine
The langoustine was tender and sweet, its roasted character complemented by the richness of the saffron beurre blanc. Sweet potato appeared in two forms — soft and delicately spiced with masala, and crisp for contrast. The rouille cream brought warmth and depth, while the langoustine-infused masala tied everything together with aromatic complexity. A vibrant and layered plate.
The 2023 Clos de la Féguine showed the richness and refinement typical of a white Beaune Premier Cru: supple stone fruit, citrus zest and a subtle floral note supported by well-integrated oak. Its rounded texture complemented the sweet, buttery elements of the langoustine and saffron beurre blanc, while the wine’s freshness lifted the warm masala spices. A thoughtful and harmonious pairing, bringing both elegance and structure to the dish.
3rd Course — Anjou Pigeon
A standout of the evening. The pigeon fillet was perfectly rosé, delivering depth and tenderness. The croquette from the leg enriched the plate with hearty, savory intensity. Celeriac appeared in multiple textures — crisp, braised, and airy through the leaf-based sauce — adding earthiness and aromatic lift. Pistachio cream introduced a gentle nuttiness, and the mace-infused jus wrapped the dish in warm spice.
A captivating Cabernet Franc from Tuscany: dark berry fruit, graphite, Mediterranean herbs and velvety tannins. Its aromatic complexity met the pigeon’s layered flavors with ease, enhancing the mace-spiced jus and earthy celeriac components. A confident and deeply satisfying pairing.
If you would like to learn more about Le Macchiole check out our article ‘Le Macchiole, innovation and sustainability in Bolgheri’ (including additional wine reviews from their portfolio).
4th Course — Deer Rack
A true autumn dish. The tenderloin offered refined game flavors, supported by silky parsnip cream and fragrant nutmeg. The house-made black lime jus added a tangy, slightly smoky edge, while the combination of fondant potatoes and wild mushrooms provided structure and depth. The vadouvan vinaigrette introduced a whisper of exotic spice — surprising, yet cohesive.
Expressive and polished, the Valbuena offered layers of dark fruits, sweet tobacco, spice and supple tannins. Its balance and persistence made it a commanding partner to the venison, elevating both the earthy and citrus-smoky elements of the dish. A world-class pairing with remarkable synergy.
Intermezzo
A contemplative moment in the tasting. Único 2013 showed profound depth: black fruit, cedar, graphite, dried herbs and a long, resonant finish. Served on its own, it provided a pause — a chance to appreciate a legendary wine in its purity before moving to the final course.
5th Course — Cheese Selection
A beautiful expression of Domburg’s expertise. The selection ranged from delicate and nutty to rich and pungent, showcasing depth, contrast and craftsmanship. Each cheese brought its own personality, collectively forming a rich and comforting conclusion to the savory portion of the evening.
Dense, youthful and aromatic, with blackberry, plum compote, cacao and a touch of licorice. Its structure and sweetness worked seamlessly with the cheeses — particularly the Stilton — rounding off the evening on a classic and indulgent note.
This Le Havre × Domburg dinner was a masterclass in collaboration — a reminder that when culinary precision meets thoughtful wine curation, the result becomes greater than the sum of its parts.
Le Havre impressed once again with its refined yet warm atmosphere, impeccable technique and thoughtful pacing. Chef Peter Kok’s cooking reflects a deep respect for classical French foundations, paired with a calm, almost architectural precision in composition. His plates are built on clarity and balance — each element purposeful, each flavor traceable, yet always brought together with a personal signature that favors elegance over extravagance. His expertise was evident not only in execution, but in how confidently he allowed subtlety to shine.
Sommelier Massimiliano “Max” Simbula added an exciting dynamic to the evening. As an emerging talent, he brings energy, sharp intuition and genuine curiosity to the dining room. His service is poised and warm, and his ability to articulate both the culinary vision and the wine pairings shows maturity beyond his years. Watching him grow into his role adds a layer of anticipation for what he will achieve in the years to come.
A special acknowledgment goes to Erik Stoffelsen, owner of Domburg Kaas, Noten & Wijn. Erik’s deep wine knowledge, confident palate and willingness to pair both classic benchmarks and unexpected choices demonstrated remarkable insight. His selections not only complemented the dishes but elevated the entire culinary arc of the evening. It is clear why Domburg has earned such respect among wine lovers and professionals— their understanding of wine is both intellectual and intuitive.
For us at Dutch Wine Apprentice, evenings like this encapsulate the essence of why we explore the world of wine and gastronomy: to discover harmony, tension, craftsmanship and personality — and to share these stories with an audience that appreciates them just as deeply.
A memorable collaboration, and one we hope to experience again.
This article is written by our own Niels Aarts. Picture credits: Hans Morren, Le Havre and Dutch Wine Apprentice. We would like to thank Restaurant Le Havre and Domburg for the invitation to this beautiful event. For food and wine lovers Le Havre proves to be the place to be, centered in the beautiful old town of Elburg their passion and talent will surely rise to great heights in the years to come.
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