Survivor Wines and the Pope of Pinotage.

Survivor Wines, located in South Africa’s Swartland region, embodies resilience and the art of winemaking. Its name is inspired by a Nguni cow that leaped into the vineyards, on its way to the market where it was to be sold. This curious event symbolizes the bold spirit behind Survivor’s wines. Led by renowned winemaker Pierre Wahl, known for his expertise in Pinotage, Survivor is building a reputation for crafting terroir-driven, high-quality wines. 

Recently, we had the pleasure of an evening with Pierre and their Dutch importer, Poot Agenturen, featuring a masterclass in South African winemaking paired with exquisite cuisine by Ruben Coonen of Auberge de Veste.

Survivor Wines: Showcasing the Best of South Africa

Survivor Wines, led by winemaker Pierre Wahl, captures the essence of South Africa’s diverse wine regions by carefully selecting grape varieties that best express each terroir’s unique character. Their vision is to showcase the country’s viticultural richness, matching the ideal grapes to their most suitable regions. 

Pinotage is central to their portfolio, thriving in the Swartland, where it develops deep fruit intensity, earthy undertones, and refined tannins. Chenin Blanc also plays a significant role, sourced from Stellenbosch, offering bright acidity, complex fruit flavors, and a mineral backbone. 

Additionally, Survivor explores Elgin’s cooler climate for varietals like Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, where the long growing season yields wines with crisp acidity and nuanced aromatics. This commitment to exploring South Africa’s finest wine regions ensures that every Survivor wine tells a story of its place, climate, and the passionate people who craft it. Survivor Wines aims to elevate South African wine on the global stage, emphasizing quality, diversity, and a profound respect for the land.

Pierre Wahl: A Winemaker Rooted in Tradition and Innovation 

Pierre Wahl’s journey into winemaking began in his youth, inspired by his upbringing on citrus farms. However, he sought something more enduring than just harvesting fruit; he wanted to create something that could be experienced and appreciated decades later. This desire led him to study viticulture and enology at Elsenberg Agricultural College in 1993. 

Wahl’s career as a winemaker began in 1996, and for the next 20 years, he was a transformative force at Rijksin Tulbagh. Despite initial skepticism about the region, Wahl saw an opportunity to make a mark, turning Rijks into a beacon for high-quality Pinotage. His efforts culminated in a reputation that transcended the winery, earning him the title “Pope of Pinotage.”

Wahl’s decision to join Survivor Wines in 2022 marked a significant new chapter. This move was driven by a desire to showcase the diversity of South African terroirs, from Tradouw and Elgin to Stellenbosch and the Swartland. At Survivor, he brings his deep understanding of viticulture and winemaking, focusing primarily on Pinotage and Chenin Blanc while exploring new frontiers with varieties like Pinot Noir. His passion for these grapes stems from a profound connection to the land and a commitment to expressing its unique qualities in every bottle.

Survivor Wines’ Portfolio: Diversity with a Singular Vision 

Survivor Wines offers a diverse range of wines that capture the essence of South Africa’s premier wine regions. While Pinotage remains a cornerstone of their offerings, the winery also produces varietals like Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, as well as red blends.

Survivor produces their wines in three ranges: The Terroir Range, Reserve Range and Cellar Master Series. During our encounter with Pierre, we had the chance to taste a selection of the Terroir Range, which we will now discuss. 

A Tour through South Africa, Survivor’s Terroir Range

At Auberge de Veste we had the opportunity to taste five different wines from Survivor’s Terroir Range, two white and three red. These wines were accompanied by some excellent cooking performed by Ruben Coonen. 

Below an impression of the wines we tasted.

2022 Chenin Blanc

The 2022 Chenin Blanc is a masterful expression of the Swartland terroir. The grapes are sourced from a low-yielding vineyard block with deep red Oakleaf and Hutton soils, which, combined with the cooling sea breezes of the Benguela current, impart notable depth, structure, and fullness to the wine.

This Chenin Blanc captivates the senses with its complex aromas of ripe melon, golden delicious apple, and delicate peach blossom. The wine’s finesse is further enhanced by well-crafted oak treatment, with 70% new French oak barrels used for both fermentation and maturation. This adds a rich, toasted nut nuance that complements the vibrant fruit profile. 

On the palate, it is medium-bodied, revealing a lusciously juicy mid-palate that leads to a refreshing burst of lively acidity. The result is a wine of elegance and intensity, culminating in a notable, invigorating finish. A compelling example of how careful oak integration can elevate the character of South African Chenin Blanc.

DWA score: 91/100

2022 Chardonnay

The 2022 Chardonnay is a refined expression of Elgin’s cool-climate vineyards. Grown on sandy loam soils, the grapes are sourced from colder sites and vines that rely on deep roots to find water, thanks to the lack of irrigation during the ripening season. This challenging environment imparts a distinctive character to the wine.

Barrel-fermented to perfection, this Chardonnay reveals a light golden yellow hue. On the nose, it offers a complex blend of oatmeal, lime, and toast, with a subtle buttery undertone. The palate is multi-layered, bursting with deciduous fruit flavors, quality wood spices, and invigorated by a crisp, Burgundian acidity. Citrus dominates initially, followed by nuances of tropical fruit, roasted nuts, vanilla, and a touch of lime peel. 

This wine impresses with its creamy texture, balanced by a hint of salinity and fresh earthiness. A lively acidity ties it all together, creating a poised and sophisticated Chardonnay that beautifully showcases the potential of the Elgin region.

DWA score: 92/100

2022 Pinotage

The 2022 Pinotage is a vibrant and refined expression of this quintessential South African grape. Sourced from low-yielding trellised vines on Hutton soils and bush vine vineyards on decomposed granite soils in the Swartland, this wine benefits from the maturity of vines aged 22 and 23 years.

Showcasing a captivating garnet hue, this Pinotage reveals a rich aromatic profile of ripe red fruits, with layers of dark fruit, aniseed, and cinnamon spice, underlined by a subtle hint of earthiness. On the palate, it presents as full-bodied, with a velvety texture that elegantly coats the mouth. 

Wahl’s expertise is evident in the wine’s balance and structure, as he masterfully manages the tannins and acidity to achieve both power and approachability. The finish is long and memorable, leaving a lasting impression of fresh raspberry and strawberry flavors. This wine stands as a testament to the depth and versatility of Pinotage, beautifully showcasing its potential when crafted with skill and a sense of place.

DWA score: 93/100

2021 Syrah

The 2021 Syrah is a powerful yet nuanced expression of the Swartland’s unique terroir. The grapes are carefully sourced from low-yielding trellised vineyards on deep red Hutton and Oakleaf soils, as well as from bush vine vineyards grown on decomposed granite. With trellised vines aged 8 years and bush vines aged 15 years, this wine benefits from a mix of youthful vigor and more seasoned maturity.

In the glass, this Syrah reveals an intense dark color, hinting at the depth and complexity within. The nose is rich and pungent, brimming with aromas of liquorice, black fruits, and layered nuances of cloves, thyme, and white pepper. Despite the expressive nose, the palate surprises with its restraint. Full-bodied and well-structured, the bold aromas are tamed into a refined, layered palate that reveals more with each sip. 

The wine culminates in a long, lingering finish, leaving a lasting impression and a sense of intrigue. This Syrah exemplifies balance and depth, showcasing the potential of Swartland Syrah under the careful guidance of Survivor Wines.

DWA score: 92/100

2020 Cabernet Sauvignon

The 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon is a robust expression of Stellenbosch’s distinguished terroir. Sourced from vineyards planted on free-draining granite and sandstone soils, these vines benefit from minimal irrigation, allowing them to develop deep roots and extract the essence of the land.

In the glass, the wine reveals a striking purple-red hue, hinting at its youthful vigor. The nose is rich and inviting, with aromas of ripe blackcurrants, cherries, chocolate, and a subtle touch of vanilla. On the palate, this Cabernet Sauvignon delivers powerful, warm flavors of cherries and plums, layered with notes of wood such as vanilla and cedar. Luscious chocolate and herbal nuances intertwine, while a hint of anise seed adds complexity to the finish.

Barrel-matured to achieve a balanced structure, this wine is ready to drink now but also has the potential to evolve with cellaring. The 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon is a testament to Survivor Wines’ ability to craft a wine that showcases both the varietal’s bold character and the unique attributes of the Stellenbosch region.

DWA score: 90/100

Harmony with Nature 

Wahl’s winemaking philosophy revolves around the idea of harmony—harmony between the vineyard and the wine, between tradition and innovation, and between nature and the winemaker’s touch. He is a firm believer in the idea that great wine is made in the vineyard. To this end, he practices sustainable farming methods, focusing on low yields to enhance the concentration of flavors in the grapes.

In the cellar, Wahl adopts a minimalist approach, favoring gentle extraction and restrained use of oak to preserve the purity of the fruit. His wines are known for their balance, exhibiting both power and finesse. Each vintage is treated as a unique expression, with Wahl adapting his techniques to reflect the nuances of the growing season.

Crafting Elegance from Complexity 

Wahl’s commitment to showcasing the best of South African terroir involves sourcing grapes from various regions such as Elgin, Stellenbosch, and Swartland. He believes that the more varied the building blocks, the more intricate and compelling the final wine. His winemaking approach involves vinifying each block separately and aging them in different barrels. This meticulous process allows Wahl to build a complex “puzzle” from diverse components, creating a wine that is layered, balanced, and deeply expressive of its origins.

Pinotage, in particular, is where Wahl’s artistry shines. Having fallen in love with Pinot Noir during a trip to Burgundy in 1995, he found a similar passion for Pinotage upon returning to South Africa. Known for its intensity, Wahl seeks to bring both power and elegance to his Pinotage wines. He aims for wines that are “powerful on the nose but very elegant on the palate,” a challenging balance that he has mastered over the years. For Wahl, a great wine is one that invites the drinker to not just savor a single glass but to enjoy the whole bottle and reach for a second.

The Future of Survivor Wines

Survivor Wines, guided by Pierre Wahl, has great potential to become a prominent name in the South African wine industry. With a clear philosophy and vision, and under the leadership of one of the country’s finest winemakers, the winery has all the right ingredients in place. Pierre’s expertise has breathed new life into Survivor Wines, ushering in an exciting era for both the winery and his career.

Wahl’s work with Pinotage has significantly elevated the profile of South African wines, challenged perceptions and revealed the variety’s true potential for greatness.

Survivor Wines is more than just a label; it embodies resilience and a dedication to excellence. Each bottle reflects the land, the people, and the passion that defines these remarkable wines. 

With Pierre Wahl’s vision guiding the way, Survivor Wines is set to continue its innovative journey, offering wine enthusiasts a deeper insight into South Africa’s dynamic winemaking landscape. For those eager to explore the richness of South African wine, Survivor Wines presents an extraordinary experience, crafted by one of the industry’s most passionate and skilled winemakers.

This article is written by our own Niels Aarts. We would like to thank Pierre Wahl of Survivor Wines, their Dutch importer Poot Agenturen and Auberge de Veste for a great evening with excellent wines, food and incredible stories.