2025 marks the bicentennial of Champagne Joseph Perrier, one of the Grands Marques in Champagne with an exceptional eye for quality and terroir. The bicentennial called for festivities of grandeur only few of us will ever witness – and we were lucky enough to have been invited. As Dutch Apprentice, we were part of the Dutch delegation, carefully selected by Champagne ambassador and Dame Chevalier de L’Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne, Hinke de Jong.
Ever since its establishment in 1825 in Châlons-en-Champagne (prior to 1998 known as Châlons-sur-Marne), Joseph Perrier has belonged to the top tier in Champagne. Grand events include having supplied the Royal House of the United Kingdom with champagne and providing champagne at the inauguration of the Concorde in 1976.
After 200 years, the vineyards now span across 24 ha in Cumières, Damery, Hautvillers (the village Dom Perignon resided in), Verneuil and Bassuet, where they are tended to by the family and staff. Furthermore, Joseph Perrier leases 75 ha from partner winemakers, and thus cultivates grapes in nearly 100ha in total. In the vineyards, Joseph Perrier works in a sustainable manner with the utmost respect towards nature, where biodiversity is much more part of the objective, rather than an incline in production. The same approach is adopted in the cellars; with slow and subtle pressing, the terroir is translated into the wine in the purest form by using stainless steel vats for vinification only. Post fermentation, the wines are carefully crafted by the creative mind behind the cuvées, Nathalie Laplaige.
From the 2019 vintage onwards and after 30 years of presiding over the house, the delightful and amusing Jean-Claude Fourmon passed the torch onto his son, Benjamin Fourmon, who represents the 6th generation at the maison, keeping the family spirit of Joseph Perrier alive. Benjamin is all one could expect from a CEO at such a great winery – charming, witty and attentive towards the future. It goes without saying Joseph Perrier is in competent and capable hands.
Hinke de Jong (CEO and founder at Brouzje), as importer of Joseph Perrier in the Netherlands since 2024, was invited to attend the exclusive event in honour of the bicentenary and tasked to form a delegation to join her on the trip. Hinke established Brouzje in 2011 and now imports, distributes and sells bottles from some of the greatest contemporary Champagne producers, such as Joseph Perrier, Elise Bougy and Domaine des Tuileries.
During the years from 2011 until the present day, Hinke has built an incredible portfolio of winemakers and achieved greatness, including graduating as the first Dutch person from the Mastering Champagne course (University of Reims & Lycée Viticole Avize) in 2015, gaining the title of Champagne Ambassador in 2016 and attaining the extremely prestigious title of Dame Chevalier de L’Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne in the same week of the bicentennial of Joseph Perrier. A track record many in the vinous world would envy.
On the day of the bicentenary, thermostats marked 31 degrees Celsius in the afternoon, the sun was fully out and the sky was crystal clear without any signs of possible precipitation. The sublimity of the weather certainly and positively added to this extraordinary day and night. After a quick photo moment in front of the 13th century cathedral of Reims, our delegation, fully dressed to the nines, made their way to the pick-up point behind the cathedral.
After a short trip to Cumières, we were welcomed outside the old family house and immediately sent to the “Les Chèvres” vineyard right across to plant our own pinot noir vine. Directly after planting our pinot noir, we went through the tunnelled entrance, into the courtyard, where we were provided with glasses of Champagne.
It took only a second to realize these glasses were not filled with one of the entry level wines, but the actual cuvee dedicated to the bicentennial – Cuvee 200, Extra Brut, 2015 – crafted by Jean-Claude as an ode to the 200 years of excellence. A blend of 50% pinot noir and 50% chardonnay, vinified in stainless steel and aged for 98 months sur lattes. Only 2000 magnums and 1500 jeroboams were bottled (no bouteilles!). A wonderfully effervescent wine with a silky-smooth texture and aromas of brioche, ripe strawberry and raspberry, lemon curd, white peach and almonds on the finish. A wine truly worthy of a 200-year anniversary.
We reward this wine with a 94-point DWA score (MC)
Alongside the Cuvee 200, we were treated to fantastic bites, such as barbecued langoustines, entertained by a group of acrobats who would toss each other in the air every now and then, and in the greatest of company – surrounded by wine and culinary lovers, such as Sandor Varga (A.K.A. Alexander the Guest). After an hour or two of bubbles, bites and acrobats, we were invited by Jean-Claude to join him in taking seats at the ginormously long dinner tables, stationed in the lower part of the courtyard in a beautiful translucent tent. After walking through the majestic tunnel of pergolae, we were seated in the front of the table on the right-hand side in the tent. Right by the stage upon which the DJ provided us with great music and in good company of our Belgian colleagues.
On the table was a little booklet: within we found the menu from a century ago, which included oeufs en gelée, filets de boeuf salade russe, cheese and more. The wine pairing included Cumières Blanc et Rouge Nature en carafes from 1919, made in a dry style. Furthermore, the booklet gave us information on the chefs of the night. Chefs, as in plural? Yes! The dinner was done in a quatre mains style, cooked by Chef Philippe Mille from Arbane and Chef Jérôme Feck from L’Angleterre. The menu? A play on the courses at the centenary, with local ingredients. Prior to every course, the cellar master, Nathalie Laplaige, gave us a brief note on the wines paired with the dish.
The first course was a fillet of pollock, stuffed with pike and glazed in a green herb sauce. The wine paired with the first dish, was the following, poured from magnums:
50% Chardonnay, 41 % Pinot Noir, 9% Pinot Meunier
Winter in 2008 was cold and made for an ideal hibernation setting for the vines. When spring arrived, temperatures maintained on the lower end, but when summer came along, grapes were enabled to ripen slowly but surely. One of the legendary vintages Champagne has seen in the past two decades. The grapes hail from both premier and grand cru vineyards of Le Mesnil sur Oger, Chouilly, Bergères les Vertus, Cumières, Mailly, Rilly la Montagne and Sacy. Disgorged in 2020, 11 years on the lies.
The wine showed toasty and nutty aromas with almonds, and a fresh, fruity sensation of, apricot, lemon curd, strawberry brioche, buttery notes on the finish. A beautiful wine with great complexity and effervescence.
We reward this wine with a 93-point DWA score (MC)
The second and main course was a beef fillet grilled over vine shoots. Paired with the main course and poured from bouteilles was:
50% Chardonnay, 41 % Pinot Noir, 9% Pinot Meunier
An excellent vintage with an easy spring, ideal for flowering, followed by a warm, dry summer in which the grapes reached full maturity without any complications. The grapes were picked in the exact same villages as in 2008. Disgorged in February 2025, 22 years on the lies.
The 2002 Millesimée aged gracefully and showed aromas of dried apricot, lemon curd, butter, ripe strawberry, ripe cherry, and nutty notes towards the end. A brilliant wine that showcases the craft and dedication of Joseph Perrier and its team.
We reward this wine with a 91-point DWA score (MC)
The third course included a selection of cheeses, with Pouligny-Saint-Pierre, Brie de Meaux and 36 months aged Comté. The wine that came along was a special one. A very special one, poured from bouteilles.
45% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir, 5% Pinot Meunier
1975 was one of the great vintages of the seventies. Spring was cool, with temperatures rising in early summer, followed by a hot, dry ripening season, with relieving rain in September and harvest in October. The grapes for this vintage came from plots in Bergères les Vertus, Chouilly, Trépail, Sacy and Cumières. Disgorged only two weeks before the event, 48 (!) years on the lies.
Surprisingly, the mousse in the wine was still present, as it was recently disgorged. The nose showed great complexity that comes with slow and gentle oxidation over decades with bruised apple, soy sauce, dried apricot, a hint of earthiness and a long finish, with a present, but ultimately inevitable loss of acidity in the wine. This wine surprised us the most and exhibits the virtues of patience and undivided attention for the vineyards and cellar. To us, it was an absolute honor to be a part of the group that tasted this magnificent wine.
We reward this wine with a 90-point DWA score (MC)
After cheese came a frasier, a humongous, multi-layered strawberry cake that was stacked in front of the audience behind a black curtain. The first cut was naturally made by Jean-Claude, after which the cake was brought to our plates in pieces. Paired with the cake was the spectacular and iconic Cuvée Josephine, poured from magnums.
60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir
The inaugural vintage of Josephine was 1982. The wine was dedicated to Joseph Perrier’s favorite daughter, Josephine. The grapes for the 2014 were carefully selected, as only those of supreme quality are allowed in the blend. The plots from which the grapes hail, lie in Ambonnay, Sacy, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Bergères-lès-Vertus and Cumières. 2014 proved challenging during summer, for July and August were wet months. Towards the end of the ripening season, the sun luckily showed its face and made for a dry period towards harvest, saving the vintage. The juice fermented in stainless steel vats and was aged for a minimum of 108 months sur lie.
Joseph Perrier’s tête de cuvée is truly worthy of the title, as the wine showed wonderful aromas of fresh lemon, ripe yellow apple, ripe raspberry, brioche, biscuit, almonds and white blossom. Wonderfully effervescent with a soft, silky texture and an incredible length.
We reward this wine with a 94-point DWA score (MC)
After dinner came mignardises, coffee and Fine de Champagne, alongside a spectacle of drones, lots of singing and a party to never forget. The champagne, music and company sent everyone present into a state of ecstasy, and at about one past midnight, the Dutch delegation took the shuttle back to Reims.
As rough as the Friday morning was on June 13, as easy was the afternoon that brought us to the contemporary estate in Chalons-en-Champagne. We were welcomed in the courtyard of the winery with – in a hair of the dog that bit us fashion – more champagne, alongside wonderful bites. The vibe was set by a band of men who played us lovely tunes in a New Orleans Jazz style.
During brunch, we were given the opportunity to explore the extraordinary ground-level cellars, underneath an old forest that gives the cellars all the natural coolness necessary for the aging of delicious champagne. In the cellars, we found refreshment that was much needed on this hot day.
After the cellar tour, we said our goodbyes among the Dutch delegation and all found ourselves on the way back home. In the rearview mirror, we saw the beautiful estate of Joseph Perrier, which now will always remind us of a legendary event in the blistering heat of June 2025. It will not be that same heat that warms our hearts in the future, but the memories of our congenial company, a prestigious party and delicious delicacies provided by the genius Joseph Perrier.
This article is written by our own Miquel Claase. Picture credits: Brouzje and Joseph Perrier. We would like to thank Champagne Joseph Perrier and Brouzje (Hinke de Jong in particular) for their invitation to join us in this celebration. If you are interested in the wines of Champagne Joseph Perrier check out Brouzje, as their official importer and distributor in the Netherlands.
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