Gastrovino: A Leisurely Cruise through Slow Food and Fine Wine

Gastrovino: A Leisurely Cruise through Slow Food and Fine Wine.

On an autumnal afternoon in October, Gastrovino – purveyor of gourmet food and wine with more than 30 stores in the Netherlands – left its usual format behind for a leisurely boat cruise along the canals of Amsterdam. On board were two very important guests: Maria Giovanna Migliore, brand ambassador for Borgogno, Barolo’s oldest winery; and Henk van Kol, cheese maestro from ‘De Mannen van Kaas’. Couple that with representatives from Gastrovino itself, their PR agency and a group of journalists and influencers, and you’ve got yourself a cheese & wine party with some serious clout.

Borgogno’s Barolo Legacy

Nope, it’s not a typo: Borgogno has nothing to do with Bourgogne. In fact, it’s a winery dating back to 1761, the Barolo region’s oldest – located of course in Piedmonte in northwest Italy. As Maria explained, “it’s the only wine cellar in Barolo where the entire production happens underground. There’s only one road in Barolo, and we literally have to destem the grapes in the middle of the street at harvest time!”

Borgogno has quite the illustrious history. In 1861, the year of the Unification of Italy, Borgogno’s Barolo was served for the official toast at the celebratory lunch. In 1848, Borgogno was selected to supply wines to the king’s army. And in 1955, the French Institut des Appellations d’Origines took Borgogno to court, accusing them of having copied the name of the Burgundy region. Fortunately, that claim was thrown out and Borgogno still proudly holds its name today.

Run by the Farinetti family since 2008, not much has changed. “We’re still firmly committed to maintaining tradition,” explains Maria. “Our wines are generally fermented in concrete tanks and then aged in large Slavonian oak casks.” Borgogno follows three key principles: commitment to high-quality, terroir-driven wines; adherence to organic viticultural practices; and good relationships with its employees and community. That’s how they hope to continue making fine Barolo wines for another 250+ years.

The Wines in Detail

Those on board Gastrovino’s boat were treated to a tasting of six wines from Borgogno and seven cheeses from De Mannen van Kaas. What follows below is not a comprehensive list, but selected highlights.

2023 Derthona Timorasso DOC 

White wines from Barolo are something of a rarity, but Borgogno has been experimenting with Timorasso, a native Piedmontese grape that was on the brink of extinction until its recent revival. After trying their hand at Riesling, this was the second white grape the winery chose to work with – and it’s proved to be a good decision. The Derthona Timorasso 2023 is full-bodied, textured and complex, showing aromas of ripe pear, chamomile and flinty minerality. On the palate it’s weighty yet fresh, with a subtle almond bitterness and remarkable ageing potential.

Our DWA score: 87/100 Points

2022 No Name Langhe Nebbiolo DOC 

The “No Name” label began as a tongue-in-cheek protest against Italian bureaucracy: when Borgogno was once forced to downgrade a Barolo from DOCG to DOC, they released the same wine under the deliberately plain label, and called it No Name. It’s since become something of a cult favourite. The 2022 vintage shows classic Nebbiolo characteristics – sandalwood, dried cherry, rose petals and forest floor on the nose – followed by a meaty, slightly salty palate. Less structured than a full Barolo, it’s approachable and food-friendly, while still retaining that signature Nebbiolo elegance and grip.

Our DWA score: 90/100 Points

2020 Barolo Fossati DOCG

The Barolo Fossati comes from a single vineyard located between the villages of Barolo and La Morra, and spends around four years maturing in 4,500-litre Slavonian oak casks. This is a serious, structured wine with firm acidity, earthy and barnyard notes, and a savoury spiciness that hints at its ageing potential. There’s a backbone of chewy tannins and a touch of sea-salt minerality that suggest it will reward patience. Right now, it’s best enjoyed alongside rich dishes like braised beef or strong cheese to temper those tannins.

Our DWA score: 93/100 Points

From Barolo to Boerenkaas

Naturally, so much fine Barolo deserved some equally fine cheese to enjoy with it. On the canal boat, De Mannen van Kaas served up primarily Italian cheeses (which is only logical) but it was arguably the Momentum Boerenkaas from Zoeterwoude that was the star of the show. Not only did it make the perfect creamy counterpoint to the Derthona Timorasso, but those on board the boat were invited to slice their own “stukje kaas” to take home.

Other notable cheese-Barolo pairings included the Occelli Foglio Castagne (a Piedmontese hard cheese made from cow’s and sheep’s milk, wrapped in chestnut leaves) and the Occelli al Barolo (a crumbly cheese wrapped in the leftover grape skins used in the making of Barolo). Needless to say, these were both excellent accompaniments to the various Barolo wines we tasted. 

But our personal favourite was perhaps the ‘No Name Nebbiolo’ paired with a soft goat’s and sheep’s cheese stuffed inside a sweet date. A fruity-meets-savoury, autumnal combination that was deliciously moreish. 

Gastrovino’s Slow Food Philosophy

Needless to say, all of these wines are available through Gastrovino, both via their online shop and in their 30+ stores across the Netherlands. The cheeses, meanwhile, can be found at Gastrovino’s Amsterdam branches – ideal for anyone keen to recreate these pairings at home. True to its philosophy of Slow Food, Gastrovino champions artisanal products made with respect for time, place and craftsmanship. Whether it’s Barolo aged deep underground or boerenkaas matured in the Dutch countryside, the focus is always on flavour, tradition and the pleasure of taking things slow.

This article is written by our own Vicky Hampton. We would like to thank Gastrovino for their hospitality and invite, their PR agency, Today’s Specials, and of course Borgogno and De Mannen van Kaas. Picture credits: Today’s Specials and Gastrovino.