The Unveiling of Graham’s 80-Year-Old Tawny Port

The Unveiling of Graham’s 80-Year-Old Tawny Port.

There are wine tastings, and then there are rare occasions that transcend tasting notes and enter the realm of memory. Our afternoon at Bistro Toost in Amstelveen, where Graham’s unveiled its 80-Year-Old Tawny Port, was one of those occasions. 

Organized by the Symington Family, their Dutch importer Verbunt Verlinden, and Alice Bown PR, the intimate lunch felt less like a formal presentation and more like being welcomed into the family’s own story.

Charlotte Symington, representing the sixth generation, carried that warmth into the room. She spoke openly about her great uncle Peter, for whom the 80-Year-Old was first created, and about the patience and craftsmanship that define Graham’s Ports. There was a sincerity in her words that set the stage perfectly — this was not only a launch but a celebration of time, family, and heritage.

The Symington Family – Guardians of the Douro

To speak of Graham’s today is to speak of the Symington Family. For over five generations, they have been at the heart of Port, shaping the identity of some of its greatest houses. In addition to Graham’s, they steward Dow’s, Warre’s, and Cockburn’s, together representing one of the largest and most respected family-owned Port producers in the Douro Valley. Their legacy is not only about scale but about commitment — to the region, to the vineyards, and to the art of ageing wines that span decades, even centuries.

The Symington’s combine tradition with a modern vision, protecting historic quintas while also pioneering sustainable viticulture in the Douro. This duality is part of what makes their Ports — whether Vintage or Tawny — both timeless and relevant today.

Tawny Port – Time in a Glass

Unlike Vintage Port, which matures in bottle, Tawny Port is shaped by time in oak casks. Year after year, the wines slowly oxidize, their ruby tones turning amber, their fruit evolving into layers of dried figs, walnuts, caramel, spice, and polished sweetness. For Graham’s, Tawny is more than a style: it is a philosophy. Each blend is a living document of patience, one that passes through the hands of multiple generations of winemakers and blenders.

Tawny Ports embody what wine can achieve when time is not an enemy but an ally. They are contemplative, generous, and endlessly complex — a style of Port that reminds us that slowness has its own beauty. In today’s world, this feels like an almost radical message.

Meeting the 80-Year-Old

When the 80-Year-Old Tawny was poured, the room quieted in anticipation. Its appearance alone was captivating: a pale mahogany hue with glints of amber at the rim, touched by a faint green edge — the telltale sign of great age in Tawny Port.

On the nose, a delicate yet complex bouquet unfolded: walnuts, treacle, honey, roasted coffee, and dried figs. With the first sip, the texture was gloriously smooth and suave, coating the palate in a creamy cascade of caramel, mandarin zest, quince, and praline. A richness reminiscent of marmalade filled the mid-palate, yet it never became heavy. Instead, a streak of acidity carried the wine forward, keeping it vibrant and balanced. 

The finish seemed almost endless — layers of butterscotch, vanilla, and quince giving way to subtler notes of tobacco and black tea. What struck us most was its seamless character: every element, from fruit to spice to structure, melded into a whole greater than the sum of its parts.

For us at Dutch Wine Apprentice, it was a humbling, emotional moment — the kind of wine that compels silence. A once-in-a-lifetime experience, and one we rated 98/100 DWA points.

A Lunch That Danced with the Wines

What this lunch made clear above all else is the diversity of Port — and Tawny Port in particular — when it comes to food pairing. The wines did not just complement the dishes, they interacted with them in surprising and delightful ways, showing how Port can be both versatile and gastronomic.

The opening amuse-bouches, served with the sparkling Vertice Gouveio 2018, offered freshness and precision. Its lift and balance earned it 90/100 DWA points.

Foie gras on homemade toasted brioche melted against the 20-Year-Old Tawny. Its nutty sweetness wrapped around the richness like a silk ribbon, cutting through the fat yet leaving a trail of warmth. A wine of finesse and balance, scoring 94/100 DWA points.

The smoked eel with crisp apple was a revelation. The gentle smokiness met the 30-Year-Old Tawny’s dried fruit character, while the apple mirrored its bright acidity. Both surprising and harmonious, we scored this Port 94/100 DWA points.

The celeriac with yakitori influences carried savory umami depth, almost meaty in its intensity. With it, the 1997 Single Harvest Tawny shone, its caramel and spice notes finding perfect balance — 95/100 DWA points. For us, this was one of the most surprising and memorable pairings of the afternoon.

The Bleu Regalis with sweet plum was unapologetically bold, but the 40-Year-Old Tawny rose to meet it with elegance and power, taming the cheese and amplifying the fruit. Another highlight that deserves 95/100 DWA points.

Finally, dark chocolate with rich caramel prepared the stage for the 80-Year-Old Tawny. The wine’s butterscotch and tobacco notes intertwined beautifully with the bittersweet chocolate, leaving us awestruck. A masterpiece that delivered, deserving 98/100 DWA points.

Each course felt like a dialogue — between flavors, textures, and eras — making the lunch not just a showcase but an education in how Port can surprise and inspire at the table.

A Moment to Remember

As the afternoon drew to its close, we raised our glasses of the 80-Year-Old once more. The room buzzed with quiet awe — not from grandeur or formality, but from the recognition that we had just experienced something rare. This wasn’t just about a wine; it was about patience, about legacy, about what happens when generations commit themselves to crafting something that endures.

Final Notes

The Graham’s 80-Year-Old Tawny Port is available in extremely limited quantities — just 600 bottles have been released worldwide. Its rarity makes it a collector’s piece, but for those fortunate enough to taste it, it is a reminder of the beauty that only time can create.

For those interested in reading more about the Symington Family and their work, we recommend our earlier feature on their Vintage Ports: Symington’s – A Celebration of Vintage Port in Frankfurt.

This article was written by our own Niels Aarts for Dutch Wine Apprentice. Photography by the talented Gerlinde Polak (Captured by Gerlinde). We would like to thank Symington Family Estates (Charlotte Symington), Graham’s importer for the Dutch market Verbunt Verlinden (Floris Verlinden), Alice Bown PR and Bistro Toost (Robbert Veuger).