Clau de Nell – Anjou’s Biodynamic Soul

Clau de Nell – Anjou’s Biodynamic Soul.

On a sunny spring morning we ventured into the most eastern part of Anjou, crossing the border of Saumur on our way from Tours. After driving through the farmlands for about twenty minutes, we found the undulating landscape that is home to one of the most precious jewels of Anjou: Clau de Nell. Upon arrival we were welcomed by the energetic and ever smiling Sylvain Potin, the on-site manager at Clau de Nell. 

Clau de Nell 

Clau de Nell is a 12-hectare large winery in the most eastern part of the Anjou region, with Saumur lying only two kilometers to the west from the estate. The estate was established by Nelly and Claude Pichard in 2001, who worked biodynamically from their very first vintage. Through their passion for biodynamics, the couple met Anne-Claude Leflaive & Christian Jacques in 2006, who had just started the CLAC company with famed microbiologists Lydia and Claude Bourgignon. 

CLAC was initiated to attract attention to biodynamic winegrowers and aid them in the export of their wines, and the estate of Clau de Nell gained particular interest with its ancient vines, complex soils and competent owners. As financial disaster struck for the young couple, Anne-Claude and Christian decided to take them under their wing and acquire the entire estate, with both Nelly and Claude still on board in 2008. After a year of working together, the parties went their own ways, leaving Anne-Claude & Christian fully in charge of Clau de Nell. 

The Visionary Anne-Claude Leflaive 

The late Anne-Claude Leflaive was a legendary winemaker and a staple in the world of biodynamic viticulture. Daughter to Vincent Leflaive, Anne-Claude took the helm of Domaine Leflaive in 1990 together with her cousin Olivier and assumed full leadership in 1994 after a decision of the board. After this period, Anne-Claude made the domain switch to biodynamic farming, as trials with conventional, organic and biodynamic viticulture all pointed towards the latter being superior to the others. 

Anne-Claude had an impressive track record in the following years. Besides running one of the most famous wineries in Burgundy and establishing CLAC, she won Decanter’s “World’s top white winemaker” in 2006 and the Master of Wine’s “Winemakers’ Winemaker” award in 2014. In 2008, Anne-Claude, along with other Burgundian winemakers, founded Ecole du Vin et des Terroirs, dedicated to teaching biodynamic principles to viticultural students. 

In April 2015, Anne-Claude passed away prematurely. She is survived by her husband and three daughters, in whom her spirit lives on, as well as in the vineyards and cellar of Clau de Nell, where the team still rigidly applies the biodynamic principles Anne-Claude so lovingly cherished. 

The Beating Heart of Clau de Nell – Sylvain Potin

The enthusiastic Sylvain Potin is a local who grew up in Angers, not far from the lands that would one day be home to Clau de Nell. When Sylvain met with a childhood friend who worked in wine, he found himself contracting the wine fever and started working as a sommelier. The childhood friend in question, whom Sylvain deems responsible for his occupation in wine, is no one less than Laurent Richet, the only Master Sommelier in the Netherlands still active in the business. 

With a tendency towards eclecticism, Sylvain soon took on other roles, such as wine marketeer and ultimately, producer of fine wines. After a period at Clos Ouvert in the Maule Valley, Chile, Sylvain returned back home and applied to become the manager at Clau de Nell. After spending only a couple of minutes in the vineyards with Sylvain, Anne-Claude knew he was the right fit for the estate, and immediately hired him. 

Vineyards and Viticulture

After arriving at the winery, Sylvain immediately took us to the vineyards. We halted in the Bois Challuau plot, consisting mostly of cabernet sauvignon and a slither of cabernet franc. From afar we could see vineyard canine Gary who came running to greet us briefly, before returning to cellar master Arnaud. 

Sylvain pointed towards the west and explained how the vineyards were right in between the Loire and Layon rivers. Towards the rivers, vineyards tend to be wetter than the parcels of Clau de Nell. The undulating landscape with vineyards facing the rivers make for an ideal position to have the wind continuously blowing through the vineyards, resulting in dry vineyards and lower chances of botrytis (both the good and the bad). The highest point in the vineyards can be located at an altitude of 101 meters above sea level. 

Besides the exposition, Clau de Nell has its 12ha in a nearly desolate area, surrounded by its own biodiverse land with forests, fields and open grasslands. The lack of proximity to any other viticultural business ensures the team of an ideal situation for their biodynamic farming, as no pesticides, herbicides or other products can reach their vineyards. The soils are complex, consisting of clay and limestone in the upper subsoil, tuffeau at 40 meters below and silty sand in the topsoil. At the domain, 4.5ha is dedicated to Chenin Blanc for the white wines. The same number applies to Cabernet Franc, whilst 2ha is planted with Grolleau and 1ha Cabernet Sauvignon.

The plots are all manually harvested by a diverse team of people, both trained and untrained in the world of viticulture, as Sylvain appreciates diversity in both people and plants. During harvest, optimal ripeness in every single bunch is sought out by passing through the vineyards two to three times, sorting in the vineyards, rather than at a sorting table. 

Tasting Clau de Nell 

Next up was a tasting of Clau de Nell’s wines. Below our impression, including tasting notes and our ratings.

2021 Anjou Blanc | 100% Chenin Blanc 

The grapes are harvested in two to three passages through the vineyards. Golden grapes are selected only. Botrytis is hardly ever encountered as the humidity is too low around this area. The grapes are whole cluster pressed with a pneumonic press and the must ferments in stainless steel tanks with indigenous yeasts. After fermentation, the wine spends 12 months on its fine lees in Burgundy barrels, and 6 months in stainless steel thereafter. 

An intensely delicious wine with a deep golden color and a nose of typical Loire fruit with aromas of delicate quince, yellow, bruised apples, wet wool, honey and a touch of salinity. Great acidity that seems hardly noticeable at the first sip, but quickly becomes brighter and more present towards the finish. A beautiful wine with great aging potential. 

We reward this wine with a 94-point DWA score (MC) 

2022 Blanc de Noir | 100% Cabernet Franc

An atypical wine that has been made since 2020, as the team felt they wanted to do something outrageously bold and hardly ever witnessed before: make a white cabernet franc. The grapes for the Blanc de Noir are harvested ten days before they reach full phenolic ripeness. Yields lie somewhere between 40-45 hectoliters per hectare. The grapes are harvested in the morning to retain as much freshness and fruitiness as possible. The vinification is akin to that of the Anjou Blanc. 

A grippy white wine with notes of white cherries, white peach, mint, lemony yoghurt, bread dough, flint and a hint of nutmeg. The phenolic grip with the tannic structure of cabernet franc might be the only giveaway that we are dealing with a blanc de noir from cabernet franc. The acidity is pleasantly present and at medium (+) levels. A great surprise and a testament to the bold and beautiful wine making at Clau de Nell. 

We reward this wine with a 92-point DWA score (MC) 

2022 Grolleau

The vinification for the Grolleau starts with 100% destemmed grapes from vines between the age of 60 and 90 years old, a maceration on the skins for approximately 20 days and soft pressing afterwards with the pneumatic press. The wine is aged in 228L oak casks, of which 30% is old oak for 14 months. 

This wine showcases the magnificent beauty that can arise from wines of this obscure grape variety. A ruby red, fairly pale wine with delicate aromas of cranberry, blackberry, crushed black pepper, funky barnyard smells and leathery, flinty notes towards the end. Medium acidity and soft, ripe tannins. Grolleau in optima forma. 

We reward this wine with a 91-point DWA score (MC) 

2022 Cabernet Franc 

The Cabernet Franc by Clau de Nell is truly magnificent and vinified in the same fashion as their Grolleau, with the only differences being the time spent macerating (30 days) and the time spent in old Burgundy barrels (12 months). 

In the glass, the wine gives notes of fresh blackberry, cranberry, red plum and the typical green bell pepper due to the pyrazines. Towards the finish, nutmeg and cloves from the oak shine through. The medium (+) acidity and medium, yet ripe, tannins give the wine great structure and bite. Beautifully fruity, elegant and complex with a lingering finish. 

We reward this wine with a 93-point DWA score (MC) 

2022 Violette | Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc

Depending on the weather during a vintage, the blend of the Violette varies. The 2022 was made of two thirds Cabernet Sauvignon and one third of Cabernet Franc. The wine is vinified in the same way as the Cabernet Franc. Both varieties are separately vinified. 

An elegant and refined wine with a nose of cassis, cranberry, red plum, bramble, blackberry, nutmeg and vanilla. A slight hint of barnyard. Medium (+) levels of acidity and great grip provided by the tannic structure. Powerful and intense, yet with a soft delicate touch. 

We reward this wine with a 92-point DWA score (MC) 

Conclusion – The Spirit of Anne-Claude 

After visiting Clau de Nell, we can attest to their greatness and status as one of the grandest domaines in Anjou. Their groundbreaking view on the world of wine and its destructive monocultures paved the way for the biodynamic applications we nowadays see among the best of the best. Their wines are delectable and a must-try for anyone fond of western Loire liquid, their domaine and its western exposition a must-see for those fond of beholding great panoramic views. 

Ten years after her passing, the vineyards are still healthy as can be and the wines are still magnificent. Though she is greatly missed, the spirit of Anne-Claude Leflaive lives on through Clau de Nell and everyone involved in the winery.

This article is written by our own Miquel Claase. We thank Clau de Nell for their warm welcome and support, and of course the wonderful tasting. Clau de Nell is imported in the Netherlands and distributed to select partners by De Bruijn in Wijnen, and the wines can be bought by consumers in De Bruijn’s online store. Picture credits: Clau de Nell.