Chefs & Cellars: Dining at Restaurant Het Koetshuis

Chefs & Cellars: Dining at Restaurant Het Koetshuis.

In the beautiful forests just outside Bennekom, Restaurant Het Koetshuis has been a cherished destination for lovers of fine food and wine for nearly four decades. Surrounded by two hectares of greenery and accessible only after a winding drive out of the village, the restaurant offers its guests something increasingly rare: silence, space, and a sense of stepping into another world.

For this episode of Chefs & Cellars, we sat down with restaurateur Danny Löhr, the second generation to lead this family restaurant, which up until the time of our visit carried a longstanding Michelin star recognition. 

We spoke about heritage, the craft of cooking, his evolving wine philosophy, and the subtle beauty of hospitality in a place where nature shapes the rhythm of the day. After the interview, we stayed for lunch—a tasting menu that captured the restaurant’s essence: classical French roots, quietly confident cooking, and wines chosen with precision and heart.

A Family Story Rooted in the Woods

The story of Het Koetshuis began in 1986, when Danny’s parents fell in love with a shuttered building in the middle of the forest—a place that had gone bankrupt, but whose potential they instantly recognized. They transformed it into a warm, elegant restaurant rooted in classical French cuisine and a philosophy centered on doing what they loved. Michelin arrived soon after, almost quietly, with a congratulatory phone call—long before any ceremonies or announcements existed.

Danny and his sister Marieke grew up roaming the restaurant on bicycles, weaving through kitchens and storerooms. The family even lived for a time in a small trailer beside the building so they could remain close despite the demanding hours of restaurant life. These early memories—of chefs teasing him, of his father falling asleep putting him to bed between services—shaped his understanding of hospitality as something both intimate and all-consuming.

Today, the restaurant bears the imprint of those years: expanded, modernized, and infused with a living history. Danny still finds old furniture in the cellar from the restaurant’s early lounge days, a reminder of how far Het Koetshuis has come while remaining anchored in its past.

Meet Danny Lohr: A Restaurateur Shaped by Many Paths

Danny’s route into the restaurant world was far from predetermined. A passionate motocross racer in his youth, he also worked in the motor industry and pursued sports education. His parents never pressured him to join the family business—something he remains grateful for.

But when he returned to help with administration, one day at a time, hospitality pulled him back: first into service, then into the kitchen, then back to the dining room. This cycle gave him a rare, holistic understanding of restaurant operations.

“I can see when something is 110% or when it isn’t,” Danny explains. “Because I’ve stood in that kitchen, and I know what the team goes through.”

Today, he leads the restaurant alongside his new Chef Brandon de Bruin (former sous chef at De Kromme Dissel).

A Kitchen Built on Classical Technique and Seasonal Precision

Het Koetshuis is grounded in a timeless culinary philosophy:

A great dish requires an exceptional main ingredient, a precise vegetable component, and a sauce that elevates everything. These principles, inherited from Danny’s father—who cooked in Parisian three-star kitchens—still shape the menu today.

While certain dishes such as sweetbread or grilled turbot have become synonymous with the restaurant, the team continuously refines them. The structure stays; the accents evolve. Guests who have been coming for 30+ years still request dishes from the 1980s, and the team occasionally obliges—honoring personal memories while embracing progression.

This balance between classical roots and gentle innovation was unmistakable in the tasting menu we enjoyed—a sequence of plates marked by clarity, restraint, and superb execution.

Where Wine Meets Philosophy: Burgundy, Coravin, and Accessibility

Wine has become one of Het Koetshuis’ defining strengths. When Danny began overseeing the cellar, he streamlined it—then rebuilt it into the extensive, Burgundy-focused collection it is today, with 700–800 labels and over 500 Burgundies.

His passion began during early trips to Tuscany and Champagne, where tasting with producers revealed the craft behind each bottle. That curiosity eventually grew into a refined personal philosophy: Wine should be accessible, explorative, and always in service of the dining experience.

Using Coravin, Het Koetshuis offers rare wines—Charles Lachaux, d’Yquem, Château Giscours—by the glass, allowing guests to enjoy bottles they might otherwise never encounter.

Danny’s approach is personal and conversational: What do you enjoy? How are you feeling today? What kind of moment should this bottle accompany?

Beyond the restaurant, Danny’s passion for wine extends to Côte & Cave, a boutique and delivery service offering curated selections through WhatsApp—an increasingly popular extension of the Koetshuis ethos.

A Tasting Menu That Reflects the Spirit of the House

Lunch at Het Koetshuis is not designed to overwhelm the senses, but to refine them. The dishes are grounded in French classical technique—clean lines, clear flavors, and no unnecessary ornamentation. The wines are chosen with equal care: never overpowering, always enhancing. This tasting menu showcased not only the technical skill of the kitchen, but the restaurant’s commitment to balance, elegance, and seasonality.

Bites

Tomato · Cauliflower · Kimchi · Asparagus

Paired with Laherte Frères Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature (Champagne)

Laherte Frères, a benchmark grower in Champagne, produces a vibrant Blanc de Blancs marked by citrus purity, chalky minerality, and tension. Low dosage keeps the wine linear, while subtle autolytic notes add depth.

Why it works:

The bites highlight acidity, crunch, and subtle fermentation. The Champagne wipes the palate clean between each, sharpening flavors and setting an elevated tone for the menu.

Asparagus · Radish · Little Gem

2019 Grüner Veltliner Reserve “Ried Rothenhof,” Weingut Konrad — Wachau, Austria

A single-vineyard Grüner showing white pepper, green apple, and stone fruit, supported by Wachau minerality. Extended aging brings texture without sacrificing precision.

Why it works:

Dutch asparagus demands a wine with freshness and gentle spice. Grüner’s pepper notes mirror radish; its acidity brightens the dish; its structure complements the Little Gem’s crunch.

Red Mullet · Anchovy · Capers

2023 Bourgogne “La Croix Blanche,” Charles Lachaux — Burgundy, France

An exceptionally pure Burgundy Rouge vinified without new oak. Aromas of rose, raspberry, and subtle spice lead into a palate defined by finesse, length, and fine tannins.

Why it works:

Red mullet has depth and salinity; anchovy and capers amplify umami. Lachaux’s lifted aromatics provide elegance, while the bright acidity balances the dish’s savory components.

Langoustine · Artichoke · Pistachio — Signature Dish

2022 Mâcon-Péronne “Les Coussits,” Pierre Boisson — Mâconnais, Burgundy

Boisson’s reductive, mineral-driven style shines here: citrus oil, wet stone, tension, and purity.

Why it works:

Langoustine is sweet and delicate; artichoke introduces earthy bitterness; pistachio adds warmth. This Chardonnay has enough body for the artichoke, enough freshness for the langoustine, and enough minerality to tie it all together.

Sweetbread · Asparagus · Broad Beans

2023 Bourgogne Rouge “Les Prielles,” Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet — Côte de Nuits

A bright, supple Pinot Noir with red cherry, gentle earthiness, and fine-grained tannins—classic Côte de Nuits elegance from a rising star.

Why it works:

The richness of sweetbread is softened by a red wine with freshness and finesse. Spring vegetables call for delicacy, not weight—something Pinot Noir delivers beautifully.

Lamb · Peas · Mint

2020 Barolo “Pietrin,” Franco Conterno — Piedmont, Italy

A youthful Barolo—vibrant cherry, rose petal, tar, and firm Nebbiolo tannins. Structured but approachable.

Why it works:

Peas and mint bring freshness; lamb brings savory richness. The Barolo’s tannins bind naturally with the protein, while its floral notes echo the herbal tones in the dish.

Cheese Selection

2020 Charly Rol — Côtes Danubiennes

An aromatic, lightly textured white wine offering pear, white blossom, and soft acidity.

Why it works:

Versatility. It doesn’t dominate delicate cheeses, nor does it collapse under stronger selections. A gentle, thoughtful finale pairing.

A Visit to Het Koetshuis

Dining at Het Koetshuis is an experience defined by calm and craftsmanship. The forested setting brings a tranquillity that amplifies every detail: the precision of the dishes, the integrity of the sauces, the thoughtful wine pairings, and the warmth of a family legacy that continues to evolve.

Whether you visit for lunch on a sunlit terrace or for dinner in the original dining room, the restaurant offers a rare combination of harmony, heritage, and refinement. As Danny puts it, “It’s about cooking with love, every day—and always earning it again.”

And for guests that want to stay over, whether its couples, a family or a group of friends, Het Koetshuis is close to opening a suite in-house (above the restaurant), so they can enjoy their stay and the surroundings to the max. The suite will open early 2026.

Chefs & Cellars

Danny Lohr is our guest on Episode 2 of this season’s Chefs & Cellars podcast. Tune in to hear the full story of Het Koetshuis, Danny’s journey into wine and hospitality, and the philosophy behind one of the Netherlands’ most quietly iconic restaurants.

This article was written by Niels Aarts for Dutch Wine Apprentice. Our thanks to Danny Löhr, the kitchen team, and the entire staff of Restaurant Het Koetshuis for their time and hospitality. Photo credits: Restaurant Het Koetshuis and Dutch Wine Apprentice

Note: Unfortunately, Het Koetshuis has lost its Michelin star since the recording of our podcast. Currently they are working hard to regain their star, with improvements in the kitchen, service and the restaurant itself. We are very confident that their star will shine again soon!