Bruno Paillard Shines at Four-Hands Dinner at CUE Amsterdam

Bruno Paillard Shines at Four-Hands Dinner at CUE Amsterdam.

There are evenings where everything aligns—place, personality, craftsmanship, and purpose. The four-hands dinner at CUE Amsterdam, organized by Anfors Imperial alongside Champagne Bruno Paillard, was one of those occasions. Within one of Amsterdam’s most exciting new dining rooms, two chefs and one of Champagne’s most distinct maisons came together for a night defined by clarity, creativity, and harmony.

CUE Amsterdam: A Defining Year for a Restaurant with a Clear Identity

For CUE Amsterdam, 2025 has been a breakthrough year—one that marks the restaurant’s arrival among the most compelling fine-dining destinations in the Netherlands. The awarding of their first Michelin star confirmed what many had already sensed: CUE has found its voice, and it resonates with precision, confidence, and individuality.

Chef George Kataras is the architect of this identity. His cooking blends modern European technique with subtle Mediterranean influence, resulting in plates that display purity, refinement, and an unwavering focus on flavor. His compositions are restrained yet expressive, showcasing ingredients with a sense of intention and clarity rather than ornamentation. Acidity, texture, and aromatics are tuned with remarkable precision.

In the dining room, sommelier Mohamed Aous has shaped a wine program that mirrors the kitchen’s philosophy. His selections are thoughtful, global, and technically precise—qualities recognized earlier this year when CUE earned two Gold Stars from Star Wine List for Best California Wine List and Best Newcomer. Mohamed’s pairings throughout the evening underlined his instinctive feel for balance and contrast.

Together, Kataras and Aous have created a restaurant with a strong, instantly recognizable personality—one defined by purity, modernity, and depth. This four-hands dinner showcased the full extent of that maturity.

The French Connection: Matthias Marc

Joining Kataras for the evening was Matthias Marc, former Chef of the Michelin-starred Substance in Paris. Marc represents a new generation in French gastronomy—one that respects heritage but isn’t afraid to redraw its boundaries. His Jura roots inform his culinary language, bringing tension, minerality, and subtle oxidative notes that distinguish his dishes.

Marc’s cooking thrives on contrast: richness lifted by acidity, softness sharpened by herbal brightness, familiar flavors reframed through modern technique. His dishes feel emotionally grounded yet forward-thinking.

The connection between Marc and Kataras shaped the rhythm of the evening. Despite different backgrounds, their cuisines share a clarity of purpose, and together they crafted a menu that felt fluid, balanced, and deeply personal.

Maison Bruno Paillard: Precision, Purity, and the Art of Time

A central presence of the dinner was Maison Bruno Paillard, a house whose style is defined by precision, purity, and patience. Founded in 1981, the maison may be young by Champagne standards, but it has shaped a clear identity built on three uncompromising pillars:

• Only first-press juice is used, ensuring maximum finesse and purity.
• Extended lees aging far beyond regional requirements adds texture, depth, and persistent mousse.
• Extremely low dosage, with nearly all wines classified as Extra Brut, allows terroir and detail to shine with clarity.

The result is a Champagne style that is unmistakably Bruno Paillard: linear yet generous, mineral yet expressive, gastronomic and intensely refined.

Throughout the evening, Pierre-Jules Peyrat, Export Manager of the maison, guided guests through each cuvée, deepening the experience with insights into reserve wine usage, aging philosophy, and the house’s relentless pursuit of purity and precision. His presence gave shape to the pairings, placing each Champagne within the broader narrative of the maison’s identity.

The Menu: Eight Plates, Eight Pairings, One Dialogue Between Chefs and Champagne

1. Cancoillotte | Smoked Potatoes | Trout Eggs — Matthias Marc

MV Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Extra Brut | 91/100 DWA score

Marc opened with a Jura-rooted dish: silky Cancoillotte, warm and lactic, paired with subtly smoked potatoes and briny trout eggs. The interplay of cream, smoke, and salinity created comforting depth without weight.

The Blanc de Blancs brought crystalline purity—lemon zest, white flowers, crushed chalk, almond skin—and razor-sharp acidity that cut through the cheese while the fine mousse mirrored the delicate pop of the roe. A quietly elegant beginning.

2. Squid | Kiwi | Shiso — Matthias Marc

Artist Collection 2014 Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Extra Brut | 93/100 DWA score

A dish of lightness and aromatic lift: tender squid, acidic kiwi, and the fresh green perfume of shiso.

The 2014 Artist Collection (just over 15,000 bottles produced) offered tension and minerality—grapefruit zest, oyster shell, green apple, saline edges, and subtle hazelnut. Kiwi heightened its electricity, while shiso echoed its herbal and floral nuances. A pairing where both spoke the same bright, linear, expressive dialect.

3. Tomato | Plums | Plum Pit Oil — George Kataras

MV Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru Extra Brut | 92/100 DWA score

Kataras’ ode to late summer: ripe tomatoes, dark plums, and the gentle nuttiness of plum pit oil. Sweetness, umami, and acidity in quiet harmony.

The Blanc de Noirs, expressive and fruit-forward, showed raspberry, Mirabelle, wild strawberry, and spice. Its soft mid-palate matched the fruit’s depth, while the extra brut finish provided precision. A naturally aligned pairing of fruit with structure.

4. Wild Sea Bass | New Season Celeriac | Ginger — George Kataras

MV Première Cuvée Extra Brut | 94/100 DWA score

A refined composition of sweet, tender sea bass, earthy young celeriac, and a subtle warmth of ginger—gentle yet dynamic.

The Première Cuvée, a blend of more than 30 crus, introduced layers of pear, citrus zest, dried flowers, and almond. Its acidity energized the dish, while its textural finesse embraced the celeriac’s creaminess. Ginger found resonance in the wine’s spicy finish, making the pairing remarkably cohesive.

5. Gnocchi | Saucisse Morteau | Vin Jaune — Matthias Marc

MV Cuvée 72 Extra Brut | 95/100 DWA score

A deep Jura-inspired plate: pillowy gnocchi, smoky Morteau sausage, and vin jaune’s unmistakable aromas—walnut, curry leaf, dried fruit. Rich, aromatic, and evocative.

The Cuvée 72, aged 72 months on the lees, delivered quince, dried apricot, brioche, roasted hazelnut, chamomile, and subtle oxidative depth. Its savory layers mirrored vin jaune’s complexity, while its acidity lifted the sausage’s richness. One of the evening’s most intellectual and rewarding pairings.

6. Duck | Field Lettuce | Morel — George Kataras

Nec Plus Ultra 2009 Grand Cru Extra Brut | DWA score 95/100

A dish of warmth and earth: tender duck, sweet field lettuce, and deeply aromatic morels—rich yet composed.

The Nec Plus Ultra 2009 (highly limited with just 9,659 bottles produced) arrived with gravitas: citrus confit, toasted brioche, honeycomb, hazelnut, dried apricot, and refined oxidative tones. Structured, layered, and long. The morels brought out the Champagne’s umami depth, while the duck framed its richness. A pairing of maturity, structure, and quiet grandeur.

7. Yoghurt | Rhubarb | Fresh Herbs — Matthias Marc

MV Rosé Extra Brut | 92/100 DWA score

A refreshing dessert balancing tang, acidity, and herbal brightness.

The Rosé Extra Brut showcased wild strawberry, rose petal, blood orange, and subtle spice with mineral-driven structure. The rhubarb sharpened its fruit notes, the yoghurt amplified its lift, and the fresh herbs aligned beautifully with its floral–spiced aromatics.

8. Chocolate | Cherry | Pistachio — George Kataras

Ratafia Réserve Privée Bruno Paillard | 95/100 DWA score

An indulgent finale: rich chocolate, vibrant cherry, and aromatic pistachio—luxurious yet balanced.

The Ratafia offered dried cherry, cocoa, caramelized fig, roasted almond, and warm spice in a silky, enveloping texture. Its sweetness met the chocolate perfectly, its depth echoed the cherry, and the pistachio introduced a savory counterpoint that unlocked a final layer of complexity.

Conclusion

This four-hands dinner embodied collaboration at its finest: two chefs working in harmony, a sommelier team orchestrating each moment, and a Champagne house whose wines elevated the menu course after course. CUE Amsterdam continues to build remarkable momentum, and evenings like this affirm its place among the Netherlands’ most exciting destinations for wine and gastronomy.

A heartfelt thank you to CUE Amsterdam, George Kataras and Mohamed Aous, Matthias Marc, Maison Bruno Paillard, Pierre-Jules Peyrat, and Anfors Imperial for their invitation and exceptional hospitality.

Champagne Bruno Paillard is imported and available in the Netherlands through Anfors Imperial.